Gm Cluster

Tiny
ANGELA GALLACHER
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 CHEVROLET TRAILBLAZER
  • 4.2L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 201,000 MILES
Hello!

About a week and a half ago after changing my oil, my GM cluster abruptly started malfunctioning. The oil pressure, gas, battery, and temperature gauges all go dead, the cluster light, service 4WD, battery symbol, ABS, (seat belt flashes for a while then disappears), and airbag lights go on. The RPM's and speedometer work, but the gear indicator doesn't show whether I'm in drive or reverse when changing direction. Any insight would be awesome.
Monday, October 21st, 2019 AT 8:52 PM

11 Replies

Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,443 POSTS
Welcome back to 2CarPros. The common reason for this is bad solder joints on the circuit board in the cluster. They crack because of the lead free solder used on them. The repair is to remove the cluster and re-flow the solder joints. If you would like to see how the repairs are done go to YouTube and look for jeffescortlx. He has a bunch of videos about cluster repairs.
To get the cluster out you disconnect the negative battery cable. Then remove the closeout panel under the steering column. Then the knee bolster trim panel. Now remove the screws that secure the dash trim panel. Now you can move the panel far enough to get to the screws that hold the instrument cluster and removing it by removing the screws and the electrical connectors. If you know how to solder and have the correct tools the repair isn't hard, but it is very easy to damage the board so be careful.
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Friday, October 25th, 2019 AT 1:21 AM
Tiny
ANGELA GALLACHER
  • MEMBER
  • 20 POSTS
Hello!

I took my car in and had the cluster inspected by a mechanic. They said they didn't see any cracked solder. I had them solder the two rows of joints closest to the plug for good measure since a YouTube video showed the exact same problem and that was his solution. They humored me, soldered the two rows of joints and re calibrated the cluster. Two weeks later the problem is back. Is there something else I can check or does it need to be refurbished? I was quoted $200.00+ just for that. I've seen after market clusters online for about $30.00 to $50.00 but I don't know how long they last.
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Friday, February 14th, 2020 AT 7:35 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,443 POSTS
The most common areas are not the connector pins but the resister chips that come loose on one end. They will visually look fine be will be cracked free. If you want to see the common issues take a look at jeffescortlx on YouTube. He shows the resisters in question if you wanted to try refurbishing it yourself. I've never used any of the aftermarket ones, I send them to a local company to get a warrantied rebuild most of the time. I've rebuilt a few as well. The fact that it worked for a while after it was taken out shows that it's a bad solder joint, the movement made it work a while.
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Friday, February 14th, 2020 AT 8:26 AM
Tiny
ANGELA GALLACHER
  • MEMBER
  • 20 POSTS
Just an update, having no electronics experience or people I know who can help with soldering, I took the cluster to a GM cluster refurbisher. They said the soldering job the previous guys had done was very poor and the solder was still cracked. So they just redid the whole thing $240.00. It pinched, but the problem is over.
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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 10:02 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
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Yeah I sort of suspected as much. Thank you for replying back about the fix and cost. That's about what it runs for the local place to rebuild them. Thank you for using 2CarPros.
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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 10:29 AM
Tiny
ANGELA GALLACHER
  • MEMBER
  • 20 POSTS
Hello!

It's been two years and the problem is back after the full refurbishment. This time, all the lights go on and gauges go flat as previously described, but after driving a while the lights turn off, gauges return to normal, but the security light stays on. Is there any longer-term solutions or do I have to refurbish it every two years? Do you have any advice?
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Friday, June 24th, 2022 AT 6:14 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
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Welcome back. Sorry to hear you are having issues again. If the security light is staying on I would probably start with a scan tool to see if there is a communication issue or a security problem. That issue sort of reminds me of a fault between the power regulator and the com chip on the circuit board. It's not a bad solder joint but a damaged copper trace on the board. However, it can be difficult to find the break, so the normal repair is a jumper around it. It's not something that you would look for until it fails though.
I would do the testing first and go from there.
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Friday, June 24th, 2022 AT 9:44 PM
Tiny
ANGELA GALLACHER
  • MEMBER
  • 20 POSTS
Update: the problem came to a climax, at first the ABS and brake light flickered on and off sporadically. Then I couldn't start my car, and when I did manage to, the dash lights would flicker on and off, radio turned on and off. Sometimes when I got it started, I couldn't shift into gear. When I turned it off, I couldn't take the key out of the ignition. Turns out, the previous owner had messed with the steering column wiring harness. The clip on the plug to the ignition switch was broken off so the plug was just loose. Zip tied it. Then the previous owner spliced the radio power into a random wire, partially severing it. The dealer repaired 12 different connections and connected the radio to the fuse box. So far, the problem has vanished.
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Sunday, June 16th, 2024 AT 12:01 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
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Wow, it sounds like the previous owner didn't do you any favors. We commonly see wiring like that when "professional installers" put in remote start and alarm systems or try to hardwire in a stereo. The problem is that it can be done correctly or as is more common they twist the wires together and apply tape or worse what are known as vampire taps, those use teeth to cut through the insulation on the wires and damage them. Then after a bit of time the wires corrode and break or the connector fails. Sounds like this was something similar.
Thanks for the update.
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Sunday, June 16th, 2024 AT 12:19 PM
Tiny
ANGELA GALLACHER
  • MEMBER
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New update: Problem resurfaced but slightly altered. ABS, brake light, and security light have been flickering on and off for weeks. I replaced the entire steering column wiring harness and pigtails associated with the ignition switch. No change. I change the ignition key cylinder. No change, however, when I got the cylinder re-keyed and I reinstalled it, the flat-gauge, all-lights problem manifested briefly before returning to the spastic abs/brake light vacillations. Could the antitheft security device be a factor?

Below I'm posting my full gremlin hunting saga as a recap:

†For years car has been plagued with intermittent and unpredictable electrical shorts manifesting when all the gauge lights light up and the oil, battery, gas, and temperature gauges all go flat.
†Recently this problem escalated with cluster and radio turning on and off, key getting stuck in ignition, inability to start car or shift out of park when car did get started.
†Also, but may not be related, rear wiper engages when brake is pressed sometimes.
†Previous owner tampered with wiring to install subwoofers. Not sure if fuse box under rear seat can contribute if it’s been messed with? Old subwoofer wires still connected there.

Attempted Solutions
†Had gauge cluster and sending motors refurbished twice. No change to problem.
†Had various mechanics check electrical systems, clean grounds, fix splices. No change to problem.
†New battery and bolts when terminals stripped. No change to problem.
†Replaced entire steering column wiring harness and pigtails. No change.
†Replaced Key ignition cylinder. Key hasn’t gotten stuck, but original problem still exists.
†Gauge-light-up-and-flat-gauge problem stopped briefly after having car worked on, but ABS, brake, and security light would come on and off unpredictably and very frequently accompanied by the odometer and gear shift indicator flickering when car vibrates from road. Battery gauge vacillates.
†Had alternator and battery tested by AutoZone. All tested good. Battery is only a year old.
†Replaced left wheel speed sensor and cleaned right wheel speed sensor. No change to ABS or brake-light flashing intermittently.
†Topped off brake fluid- no change to brake light problem. Fluid was flushed not too long ago.
†Cleaned ABS ground. No change to problem.
†Had ignition key cylinder changed by locksmith. When reinstalled, the gauge-light-up-and-flat-gauge problem manifested again after it had been absent for a few weeks and vanished before I could record it. Typical.
†Then day after locksmith, no ABS, brake, or security light even after a long drive. Only faint flicker of odometer/gear indicator light.

New theory
†Maybe antitheft device on ignition is faulty?
†Some short between fuse box and ignition?
†Vibrations from road affect odometer and gear shift indicator display suggesting a loose connection?
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Tuesday, August 20th, 2024 AT 2:28 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
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Overall it suggests a bad connection more than anything else. Especially the lights flickering due to road vibrations.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

I would start by doing what is known as voltage drop testing. What you do is take a multimeter and set it to voltage and then measure from one ground point to battery negative. The voltage between them in a perfect world should be zero, but because there is always some resistance in the wires and connections seeing a small amount of voltage is normal, what you don't want to see would be something like a full volt or more. That would show a bad ground. There are tons of videos explaining the procedure.
These are a smattering of them:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l734h_SThcA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7u5KNNB5Zjc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qdaOSiScEu8

My suspicion is that there is a bad connection that is causing your dash issue. Likely a ground in a spot that has been overlooked. Tracking it can be an issue simply because yours is intermittent.
I'd almost suggest trying a bypass wire for testing. Say running a ground from the battery negative to the body, then one from the body to the dash ground and see if the issue goes away. Because it isn't causing problems other than the lamps flashing, I don't think it's the battery to engine or battery to chassis grounding that is the issue but something in the battery to body but being it's acting the way it is the issue will not be easy to track down. It will likely need to have a meter connected between the grounds, then move and shake the harness under the dash and at either ground and see if the issue shows up.
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Tuesday, August 20th, 2024 AT 3:55 PM

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