Spark Plug Replacement?

Tiny
BLUMONSTER
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 GEO PRIZM
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 118,000 MILES
Hi,

I asked a few questions about my car in the past. Thank you for the replies.

My problem is excessive fuel consumption. It is a 1.8L 7A-FE engine, A/T with o/d.

The car had failed emissions tests a few times in the past because of high NOx readings. But the last test it passed.

The Catalytic converter is relatively new, installed by the previous owner a year or two ago.

Spark plugs changed too.

A full tank of gas (13 gallons) lasts only for 200 miles with mostly city driving.

What I suspect is that incorrectly gapped spark plugs were installed by the previous owner.

Even NGK's official website says the spark plug gap for my car is 0.042 inch. Many auto parts stores do the same. Even Haynes manual says the gap should be 0.042. However when I look for a Toyota Corolla with the same 7A-FE engine it says the right spark plug is 0.032 inch. (BKR5EYA). I found out that the factory manual recommends BKR5EYA already gapped at 0.031 (instead of 0.032 of Toyota's) inch.

My question : Is it possible for spark plugs gapped wider than recommended to cause

a/ Emissions test failure based on high NOx readings,
b/ Excessive fuel consumption?

I bought NGK's BKR5EYA spark plug set and I will hopefully be able to install them. Can this correct these problems?

Thank you.
Friday, January 30th, 2009 AT 5:02 PM

16 Replies

Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
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You are only getting 15 mpg. You should be getting mid to high 20's in city.

Gap should be .032.

Are you noticing any black smoke out the exhaust?

This guide should help us

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-change-spark-plugs

Excessive gap can cause incomplete combustion, mileage will suffer. Plugs would be carbon covered.

I would install the new plugs and see if it helps, if not something else is going on (sensor malfunction, excessive fuel pressure, weak spark, leaking injector, ruptured FPR etc.).
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Saturday, January 31st, 2009 AT 9:09 AM
Tiny
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Thank you MMPrince for the reply.

There is no black smoke coming out of the exhaust. It is grayish whiteish smoke/vapor on cold days. But when I smell the exhaust it is strong.I smelled the exhaust of my wife's newer car but did not get the same strong smell there.

It is my first time trying to change spark plugs. And I failed even pulling out the wire. The first wire now has damage, I can see inside the black/gray wire (whiteish inner part).

I had to order new plug wire set but before that would it be dangerous if I just cover the damaged area (1/5th of an inch tear on the wire-black rubbery silicone part- closer to the boot) with electrical tape and drive like this before I install the new wires?

The extension I had turned out to be too short to reach the plug. So I have not been able to change the plugs today.

I am thinking of changing the wires and the plugs one by one, replacing the old wire and plug with the new wire and plug one at a time. Is this the right way of doing it?

Thanks again :)
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+1
Sunday, February 1st, 2009 AT 11:45 PM
Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
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Replace the wires, do not try to repair, the ignition system creates significant voltage to fire the plug.

Change wires one at a time. Start with #1 closest to timing belt. Remove old plug and coat (dab) threads of new plug with Anti-Sieze.

These plugs use a crush washer as opposed to a tapered seat, DO NOT OVERTORQUE the plugs. Be carefull not to cross-thread the plugs. If plugs come out hard, get a thread chaser and clean the cylinder head plug threads up.

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_change_my_spark_plugs.htm
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Monday, February 2nd, 2009 AT 6:22 AM
Tiny
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What size of socket and extension do I need to remove the plugs? I have 5/8 socket and 6 inch extension.I tried putting it on the plug but I do not feel any resistance to show that it is on the plug.I tried the socket on one of the new plugs and saw that it does fit. What am I doing wrong?

Also, how do I remove the wire from the distributer end? I see a clasp-like thing to fasten the wire there. How to remove it?

Thanks.
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Monday, February 2nd, 2009 AT 1:41 PM
Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
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A 5/8 should work, if not try smaller size (9/16), but the plug should be a 5/8. Next size up should be 11/16.

The wires should come off cap by squeezing them, they have alignment pins on the cap:


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/108325_cap1994_1.jpg



Use a longer extension if you have to.

Spark plugs have a stock number, like 2382, 7133, marked on box, which stock number do you have?
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Tuesday, February 3rd, 2009 AT 8:12 AM
Tiny
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Thanks for your reply/help mmprince,

I found out that the plugs were Bosch Platinum+4 type plugs.
I am adding pictures of old plugs here hoping that they are clear enough to produce a diagnosis. As far as I see there is no black deposits on the electrodes, but on the body of the plugs I see black stains/coating. Is that normal?

I had 3/4 full tank when I changed the plugs and wires, I filled up when the trip odometer indicated 203 miles or so and I calculated that with mixed city/highway driving the mileage came to be 22-23 MPG. But I drove longer distances on this tank than before. Also the weather was warmer most of the time.I am not sure if the change of plugs and wires were the only reasons for the improvement but I am happy. What do you think?
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Monday, February 9th, 2009 AT 7:32 PM
Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
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I have to tell you I am not a fan of the multiple ground plugs like the +4.
I used them on a turbo engine once (14psi) and they would not fire past 6psi, while the single ground (even Bosch) worked fine.

I would check the condition of spark (blue), and the NGK wires are fine.

The +4's look carboned up and are mis-firing.

Look for gas in vaccuum line of FPR, you may have a ruptured diaphram.

The other issue is that if you do not properly torque the plugs, they will work loose, I check them (cold) after a couple of weeks.

That's a nice engine, wher did you get the headers?
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Tuesday, February 10th, 2009 AT 8:18 AM
Tiny
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If the diaphragm is ruptured, would I need a new FPR?I am all for stock OEM replacement parts and I do not see OEM FPRs for sale anywhere.

I compared the previous pictures of the engine compartment I took of my car with the new ones and I see that I installed the wires the upside down and the shortest wire has a sharp angle with the boot. Is it OK if I leave it like that or should I change its position so that the wire sits straight? I do not want to play with it anymore to be honest. Unless I have to.

The previous owner installed the headers. Car has newer full polished stainless 2.25 inch exhaust from the engine back(4-1 header, flex pipe, high flow magnaflow cat, resonator, and magnaflow street muffler), new Bosch O2 sensor was also installed with the new exhaust by the previous owner. I would have preferred Denso or NGK oxygen sensor.I would have preferred newer stock exhaust.

Maybe because it failed emissions test and he thought it would solve the problem but from carfax report I see that it failed again so they sold the car to me without telling me anything about the 2 failed emissions tests.(Thank God, the state of WI changed its laws so that cars older than 1996 model eyar will not need emissions tests anymore.) The previous owner also told me that he used to get up to 46 MPG on freeways. What happened to the car that caused much lower mileage and fail emissions tests, I do not know.

Today I had a weird experience with the ABS. While climbing up the ramp out of a closed multi storey parking lot the blue ABS light came on, the yellow light went off. And I kept hearing click clicks coming from the modulator on the right side of the car and the brake pedal kept pulsating for a while, the yellow ABS light stayed off for longer than ever although my speed was 30 miles per hour. But eventually the dreaded yellow ABS light lit up again. :(

Can this be a good news to suggest that the sensor is not dead and the problem might be a slightly disconnected sensor or wires? I hope so. I hope it is not another sensor dying.

Thanks for your help, thanks for your informative replies MMPrince.
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Saturday, February 14th, 2009 AT 4:16 PM
Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
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2 and 1/4 inch primary tubes on a 1.8 liter engine?

46 mpg?

There is a practice in selling used cars called "puffing", "this car is a cream puff", "idles like a sewing machine".
But 46 MPG is a flat out lie, you should be happy with 30 mpg.

The exhaust may be a big portion of the problem, the large primary tubes cool the exhaust off so quickley that the O2 sensor may not be getting to operating temp, which is 600 degrees F. This will cause a rich condition.

The FPR should be available from NAPA or from Toyota.

The ABS system will have to be scanned at a local garage with proper equipment. It could be the wheel sensor or the ABS module.

The cylinders are 1-2-3-4 from the timing belt to the trans. Firing order should be listed on hood sticker.
Dist. Rotation SHOULD be counterclockwise (if unsure, rotate engine by hand with socket and ratchet on balancer bolt, rotate engine clockwise and note rotation direction of dist. Rotor).
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Sunday, February 15th, 2009 AT 6:38 AM
Tiny
JDUB1990
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1994 GEO PRIZM
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 239,670 MILES
I'm curious what the best spark plugs for my 94 Prizm would be. Considering it is a Toyota engine made for Chevy with Bosch components. I didn't know if I should go with NGK, Bosch, or other. Also, platinum or iridium?
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Monday, August 24th, 2020 AT 9:27 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
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Use whatever the factory reccomends. Toyota would use either NGK or Denso and it would be a platinum plug most likely, although it may even be a steel or copper plug.
If the wires are factory, I would replace them.

Iridium plugs are generally used on newer cars with individual coils for each cylinder.
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Monday, August 24th, 2020 AT 9:27 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RUDYSEW
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  • 1 POST
  • 1990 GEO PRIZM
Geo Prism, 1990, 171,000miles 1.6 engine. New plugs and wires are good, but keep getting carbon deposits on all 4 plugs. How do I fix to not get these deposits on the plugs? Thank you.
Rudy S.
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Monday, August 24th, 2020 AT 9:27 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
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What kind of shape/age is the cap?

A good periodic carbon removing product that I like is "seafoam"

Post a good clear pic of the plug when it gets carboned up.
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Monday, August 24th, 2020 AT 9:27 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DPWD23
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To not get the deposits on the spark plugs, make sure that they are gapped correctly, that your cap and rotor are in good shape, and you are using the proper grade of gasoline recomended in your owners manual.
Your timing should be adjustable, so make sure it is adjusted to the proper setting listed on the emissions label under the hood. Check for vacuum leaks, and for worn valve seals, properly functioning EGR system operation, and that your emissions system is operating properly don't forget to check that little PCV valve too.

That's all I can come up with right now for maintaining a carbon free combustion chamber. You can also periodically use a top of the line premium fuel with a high octane rateing, and a fuel addative dezigned to prevent/cure carbon in the combustion chamber.
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Monday, August 24th, 2020 AT 9:27 AM (Merged)
Tiny
THIENHAHHG
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By John Garett

When Karl Benz has been credited for being the first to released the very first "official" automobile that ran on the internal combustion engine, the German-born engineer was most likely unaware that his creation, and name for that matter, would soon become a global phenomenon. A century and three decades after its official start in 1871, Mercedes Benz is now one of the premier car makers in the world, continuing the pioneering spirit of its founder with its successive models throughout its lifespan. Garnering a reputation of never compromising quality and durability, Mercedes Benz has survived two World Wars, in which, the aftermath of both campaigns crippled the local German economy. Despite the adversity, the original vision of Karl Benz persisted, making the Mercedes Benz name famous among the current generation's celebrities by providing sports cars and limousines, all of which have kept the inventive spirit of its creator, changing the automotive industry several times throughout the industry's history. Despite numerous innovations in engineering and car electronics, such as the crumple zones, anti-lock brake system (ABS), PRE SAFE, fuel injection, just to name a few, the Mercedes Benz brand has yet to forget the bare basics of automotive technology. After all, as the company that supposedly started it all, no one understands the importance of the basics of the internal combustion engine like Mercedes Benz. The fact of the matter is, for an engine to work, you need compressed fuel that is combusted and turned into mechanical energy. The key proponent that makes this procedure possible is arguable, but one can never ignore the importance of spark plugs when discussing fuel combustion. Mercedes Benz spark plugs aren't anything fancy compared to the other car manufacturer spark plugs, its still screwed into the combustion chamber, made up of a conductive core inserted in a ceramic insulator.
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Monday, August 24th, 2020 AT 9:27 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
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Does the car emit blue smoke on startup? If so the valve seals are bad and will foul the plugs.

The seals themselves are not expensive, but the camshafts must be removed and you need some special tools to remove/install new ones.

I just replaced the valve seals on 2 of my GEO's. I bought a Kent-Moore service kit on ebay for $30.
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Monday, August 24th, 2020 AT 9:27 AM (Merged)

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