Fuse panel

Which fuses are dead? Inside "junction box" or "power distribution center" under the hood?

What are the symptoms or problems you're trying to solve?

They are from both sets. I did a ground to a circuit and some sides have power other sides don’t.

I have to know some of the dead fuses to know where to start the diagnosis. This is like saying, "some of the bulbs don't light up, but I'm not going to tell you which ones". Keep in mind some fuses will not have 12 volts on them until their circuits are turned on, so it's normal to find numerous dead ones.

Most or all of the fuses in the junction box, inside the vehicle, are fed from larger "maxi-fuses" in the power distribution center under the hood, so one blown fuse can be responsible for many circuits or systems being inoperative, along with that missing 12 volts on their fuses.

It would also be helpful if you would tell me what led up to this or any other clues or observations. Fuses blow for a reason, and multiple dead fuses always have something in common. Once I know some of the fuses that don't have 12 volts on them, I'll figure out where to start the testing. I posted the diagrams for the two fuse boxes so we can look at what these have in common. Typically we'll pick one of the simplest circuits and just work on that one, then when we find the cause and repair it, that solves all the other dead systems too.

Since I can't look over your shoulder to see what you were doing, please explain, "I did a ground to a circuit and some sides have power other sides don t." I have a suspicion you were using a test light or a voltmeter, but that could also be interpreted as you used a jumper wire to short out a circuit to see if a fuse would blow. What "sides" are you referring to? Are you missing 12 volts on one side of a fuse box, or one side of a fuse.

As a mechanic, you're going to have to be very clear and complete because what you write on the back of the repair order is what you will get paid for. My students were required to write complete "stories" every day in my shop. That way their future employers didn't have to do that remedial training on the job site.

I'm assuming you already know how to use a voltmeter and test light, but in case you don't, check out these articles:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

For the type of testing we're going to be doing, the test light can be faster, easier, and can be more accurate. Harbor Freight Tools has these, or you can find them at Walmart or any hardware store. The article shows using an "auto-ranging" voltmeter. That's an expensive feature you don't need. If you need help with setting a regular meter, I can help with that too.

How are you doing with this problem? Have you made any progress or found the solution?

Okay, sorry for late response. I changed all of the fuses under the hood and in the car as well on the side panel, and I’m still having the same problems. I now have a new problem as well the power steering fluid is full, but I still hear the whining noise when I turn the steering wheel and it sounds like my tire is squeal as well.

I used a better voltmeter and I still am having the same problems with some sides getting power and the other sides not. Now my windows won’t roll down and I have replaced the window motor and window switch twice.

Go back to my first reply and look at the fuse box layouts. Find the fuse to one circuit that is dead and lets concentrate on that for now. Tell me which fuse that is, then give me some time to find the diagram and format it so I can post it for you.