Can I get a Fuel Pump wiring diagram?

Here's the fuel delivery diagram. Sorry that the original Chrysler diagrams are no longer posted on the online service manuals. If you find these hard to read, you can copy and paste them into a typing program such as MS Word, or I can cut them up and expand them for you.

If I may add some tips, listen for the hum of the fuel pump for one second when a helper turns on the ignition switch. If you hear that, the pump circuit is okay. Way too many people get hung up on the first thing they find missing, (fuel pump) when they have a crank / no-start and forget to look for anything else that's missing. In this case, check for spark too. Fuel pump problems only cause about three percent of crank / no-starts, and ignition system problems cause perhaps another two percent. By far the majority, up to 95 percent are caused by a loss of both fuel and spark at the same time. The confusing clue is fuel pressure appears to be normal due to the pump running for that first one second.

If you're missing spark too, I'll find the relevant diagrams and post those for you. We would be looking at the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor. Don't be mislead if there re no diagnostic fault codes set related to them. Often more time is needed to detect the missing signal, as in when a stalling engine is coasting to a stop. If the owner disconnected the battery to replace the fuel pump, any codes would have been erased. They are likely to not set again just from cranking the engine, then that valuable information will have been lost.

Dandy. How do you know the sensors are working? Do you have spark? If you do, you're correct; the sensors are working.

The fuel pump diagram hasn't changed for many years, except they added a "start / run" relay. Also, they show the relays to be on the circuit board, not plug-in relays as in the past. What they call the "Power Distribution Module" has also been called the "Totally Integrated Power Module, (TIPM)". I recently took one apart to repair and found there is absolutely no computer circuitry in them, so no need for any type of programming, however, they are the same from 2010 through 2022 models, but only for the 1500s. They are also the same for the 2500s, but only for those first three model years. I don't know if yours will have circuitry inside or need to be programmed, but those boards have caused a lot of trouble. After taking one apart, I can see why. Instead of nice big plug-in relays, they switched to tiny relays soldered onto the board. There's no easy way to unsolder them or to pop their covers off to clean the contacts. It may be possible, but it was a good working module and I didn't want to risk damaging it.

What I would recommend is finding fuse # 70 and see if you find 12 volts on the test points on top. This appears to be a standard mini spade-type fuse with two test points on top. I doubt you need it, but for the benefit of others researching this topic, here's a guide showing how to use a test light:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

I don't recommend using a digital voltmeter because they respond too slowly. What you should see, unless this has changed since the late '80s, is 12 volts for one second when the ignition switch is turned to "run", then it should go back to 0 volts. If you see that, the fuel pump relay is working. If not, suspect that relay on the circuit board. Next, that 12 volts should come back during engine rotation, (cranking or running). If it does, that's further proof the cam and crank sensors are working.

What you find on that fuse will tell us which way to go next. Besides the connector under the PDC, the next connector is shown as an inline connector. My 2014 Ram was a crash rebuilder with 4,200 miles. It was hit by the left front wheel, and that connector is right there waiting to get hit. I had to search a few salvage yards to find that connector with a couple of feet of wire, and I found it is no longer used on 2018 models, but it was still on 2017 models. Some model years the connector was relocated, and some years didn't have any connector in that area. If we need to work that way, that connector is a dandy test point. You'll find it right under the driver's foot area, clipped to the left side of the frame rail, behind the inner fender splash shield. The third drawing is of that connector. Terminal # 4 is a fat one that's easy to spot. It's the 12-volt feed for the fuel pump. It's the middle one in the top row. and the diagram shows it to be a dark blue / orange wire.

In your original post you said you checked to the fuse already. Don't forget there's a separate ground wire back by the tank. A competent do-it-yourselfer could overlook a burned terminal in the fuel pump module's connector, (I found that twice), or the original pump may have indeed been defective, but a wire got broken off that connector and overlooked.

I'll be back tomorrow to read that you solved this.