Will not stay running on its own

Hi,

Is it possible for you to record the engine running for me to hear it? This could be the result of a few things.

When it is running, is there any black or gray? Have you checked to make sure there are no major engine vacuum leaks?

Here is a link explaining how to find a vacuum leak:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

As far as the fuel pressure, I attached a pic below showing what the pressure should be. You could get a 'T' and put it between the fuel line and carburetor to confirm pressure. Here is a link that shows in general how it's done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

Thank you very much for your reply. I attempted to attach a recording (an ".m4a" sound file recorded on my iPhone) of the engine starting and running to this reply message without success. It doesn't seem to like the "Filetype." Any ideas?

The engine wants to roll back a quit whenever I let the RPM's go below about 2,000. As I indicated previously, keeping it running requires that I vigorously pump the accelerator pedal.

I may have been unclear about this earlier, but both both fuel filters were replaced recently. So far, I have not been able to find any damaged or missing vacuum hoses. The problem has progressed over time indicating that the performance of something has been deteriorating. It was intermittent at first. When it would not run properly, I would let it sit for several minutes or longer after which it would start and operate normally again for the remainder of my journey that day.

Thank you again.

Hi,

Although you see no damaged vacuum hoses, there still could be a leak at the base of the carburetor, intake, or something you don't see. Try the test I mentioned above. Also, other than stalling at idle, does it run normally? I realize it's hard to keep running, but didn't know if that was only limited to idle.

I'm starting to question the top dead center sensor in the distributor. . Here are directions for testing it. Let me know if it is something you feel comfortable doing.

1985 Honda Accord L4-1829cc 1.8L SOHC ES, ET 3-bbl
Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Vehicle Powertrain Management Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management Sensors and Switches - Computers and Control Systems Crankshaft Position Sensor Testing and Inspection Component Tests and General Diagnostics
COMPONENT TESTS AND GENERAL DIAGNOSTICS
If either the CYL or TDC sensor are not satisfactory, they should be replaced together.
CYL Sensor
1. Disconnect sensor electrical connector, then measure resistance between white and orange wire terminals on Accord and Prelude, or white and red wire terminals on Civic and CRX. Resistance should be 650-850 ohms.
2. Measure resistance between the white and orange or white and red wire terminals of the sensor and sensor housing. Meter should indicate infinite resistance.
3. If resistance is not as specified in steps 1 and 2, CYL sensor is defective.
TDC Sensor
1. Disconnect crank angle sensor electrical connector, then measure resistance between white/blue and orange/blue wire terminals on Accord and Prelude, or brown and blue wire terminals on Civic and CRX. Resistance should be 650-850 ohms.
2. Measure insulation resistance between the white/blue and orange/blue or brown and blue wire terminals and sensor housing. Meter should indicate infinite resistance.
3. If resistance is not as specified in steps 1 and 2, TDC sensor is defective.



Let me know.

Joe

Thank you very much for all this information.

I caved and took it in to a carburetor expert. He found what appeared to be a failing electrical connection at the primary main cut-off solenoid valve. He cleaned it up and secured the connection. So far, the car appears to be back to its old self. However, he expressed some apprehension saying that he's never seen this particular electrical connection fail before (his shop has at least 50 carburetors of all types and sizes on the wall, and he's been at this for years--lots of classic muscle car work). He also said that the solenoid is no longer manufactured. He told me to drive it for a while to see how it behaves. I will keep your guidance handy just in case. Thanks again....

Oh, and to answer your last question, no, it would not run normally otherwise. I had to work the pedal to keep it running at any speed, but more so below about 2,000 RPM's. When I would let the engine get down below that level, it would begin to head down even further and I'd have to fight to bring it back up (to prevent it from stalling) and it would not stay there if I simply held the pedal down without pumping. I hope I've explained things adequately. If not, I sincerely apologize. Thank you.

Glad to hear it is fixed, and thankfully he had the part.

Let us know if you have questions in the future or need anything.

Take care,
Joe