Fuel pressure circuit sensor?

Since you've already changed it then the next things to look for would be

Cracked or disconnected vacuum lines all of them

Disconnected loose broken melted hardened
Wires to the pressure sensor and look for bad loose broken grounds for that circuit also
This is one of the most comon cuases for the codes youre getting

Check volts at the plug 5 vots
Clean all connections with electrical cleaner and on dirty grounds with fine sand paper and cleaner ...let us know what you find good luck hope this helps

As Mechtrix stated this issue likely isn't the sensor itself. P0193 code means there is an issue with the sensor circuit. No code actually tells you "replace part X" instead it means the ECM is seeing incorrect information from one of the monitored systems. Then you use a scan tool or testing to discover where the issue is. There are times when it may be an unmonitored system causing a problem in a monitored system or something like a failed wire or connector.

Your sensor should have a 4 wire connector. If you have a scan tool that can read live data and not just codes it would be easier to just look at the reported fuel pressure and temperature, if you have a reported fuel pressure of zero but the engine is running it could be the signal wire to the ECM is corroded or broken. If you had no reported pressure or temperature then you would look at the ground or power as the sensor shares both. Without that you can use a multimeter to do some testing but it will be limited in scope. These are the wire terminals and the colors of the wires. Using a meter to measure between pin 2 and pin 4 should show 5 volts with the key on and the connector unplugged If it does then turn off the key. Now switch to resistance and measure on the sensor between pins pin 1 and pin 2. You should see a value, now start the engine and measure it again, the value should have changed. Now test between pins 3 and pin 4 and there should be a value. Those will tell you that there is power and ground and that the new sensor is working. If they are all correct then you need to test the same things at the ECM end to see if it's a wiring issue or possibly internal to the ECM. That is where a scan tool makes it much easier.

Pin 1 Red w pink - Fuel pressure signal - Voltage varies with pressure
Pin 2 Brown w white - Reference voltage - Fixed reference voltage from the ECM
Pin 3 Light Blue - Fuel temperature signal - Varies with fuel temperature
Pin 4 Gray w red - Signal return (ground) - should be zero volts in reference to ground.

https://2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter/
https://2carpros.com/articles/can-scan-controller-area-network-easy/

Wow.! Thank you so very much for all of this information. I never in a million years would have thought that someone would have explained to me what I am looking for. I pretty much know that to replace that twice and it still do the same thing couldn't be it. But as a female I have no other option than to rule it out.! Steve you have been a blessing to me and I'd surely do appreciate you going above and beyond to help me and to help me understand the next steps. You deserve a pat on the back you deserve a promotion. And you deserve a blessing! May God bless you

Don't put yourself down because you are a female, I know some very good techs and shop owners who are female. I also know of males who don't know how to open the hood! To me that doesn't matter as everyone can learn. The catch with vehicles these days is all the expensive tools that were not needed to do repairs then and how to get around them for the average DIY who doesn't have them and may not ever use them again. In those cases it's fine to say, well the part is $20.00 and might fix it, or spend $2000.00 on a scan tool, $100.00 on a good meter $200.00 on service information and test the system just to discover that the part was bad. BUT then you have your situation where you have replaced the part twice but still have the problem. That points to it being wiring, ECM or fuel system related (bad pump, bad regulator) and now you need to test, as just blindly swapping the ECM can get expensive quickly. So the above allows some testing as a start. Then you also have a base where you know, well I have power, ground and the new part works, but it isn't getting to the ECM. Just knowing the part works is a good thing these days, I've had multiple parts that were junk in the box or failed within a week. That is why many say New stands for Never Ever Worked....