Front brake sticking and smokes lost?

First, you lost brakes in what way? Did the brake pedal go to the floor due to a leak? Did the pedal seem okay but the vehicle didn't slow down?

When the brakes lock up, is it just the right front that gets hot? What other history or events led up to this? Is there any chance any type of petroleum product got into the brake fluid? That includes engine oil, power steering fluid, axle grease, transmission fluid, or penetrating oil. Does the brake eventually release on its own, and if so, how long does it take?

Does this just affect the right front, or any other brakers too?

There's additional potential causes to this for import models, but for yours, given what you've done already, this is likely to be caused by something holding the brake pedal down a little, or there's an issue with the master cylinder and / or the pushrod coming out of the power brake booster.

The next time this occurs, stop on a slight incline, place a block about a foot downhill of one tire, shift to neutral, then loosen the soft metal nuts on the steel lines leaving the master cylinder, then see if that lets the brakes release. If it does, you're likely to see a little spurt of brake fluid by those nuts.

If that doesn't let the brakes release, tighten those nuts, then crawl underneath and open the bleeder screw on the right front caliper. We need to see where the brake fluid is being trapped. Opening the system at various places will help us do that.

Let me know what you find.

In your original post you said this affected the right front brake, now you're saying the left front one released, but you didn't say what you did. Did you open a bleeder screw on a caliper? If so, which caliper? Did you loosen the line nuts at the master cylinder?

In addition to these questions, see if the brakes will release if you pull up rather hard on the brake pedal with your foot or hand. If that doesn't work, another trick is to loosen the two nuts that hold the master cylinder to the power booster. Typically all that's needed is to pull the master cylinder forward about 1/8". If that lets the brakes release, we have to look at that new master cylinder.

More bleeding is not the answer. That only removes trapped air from the brake fluid. That air can be compressed leading to a low and soft brake pedal. You have the opposite problem.