Fresh Engine: No Oil Pressure when cranking engine

2009 FORD F-150
174,000 MILES • 5.4L • 4WD • AUTOMATIC
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LARRYCV7
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
My truck info:
Ford, F-150 XLT
(V-8) 5.4L / 3v
4x4
Roughly 174K miles.

I've rebuilt the engine front end with all timining components replaced.
I've removed both heads do to valve related issues of which 2-were replaced and the rest were ground down by a local machine shop. It recieved new valve stem seals as the valve were re-installed.
Both cams were scared so I replaced them as well.
Heads have been re-installed with new gaskets and head bolts.
Replaced both VVT solenoids and the VVT filters held within the VVT housing.
Replaced the water pump, thermostate, and several heating and cooling system hoses.
Removed the oil pan to clean any left over debrie...reinstalled with new gasket.

I upgraded the oil pump with a Melling M340HV along with their oil pick-up tube.
Yes, I did replace the o-ring between those two parts.
I removed the oil pump backing plate and removed the gear. Lubed everything in that pump with Drive Engine assembly gel (non-drip formula). Reassmebled and installed the pump.
I replaces all the accessory idler pulleys, tensioner, and the belt itself.
Even installed a new battery.
Serviced engine with new 5W-20 to the full fill line.

Now onto the engine pre-start conditions:
Disconnedted the engine crank sensor.
Disabled both the ignition system and fuel system by pulling the fuses for them.
Removed all of the spark plugs.
Disconnected the fuel injector electrical connectors from all of the F/I's.
Installed a pressure guage to the oil filter housing pressure switch/senor port.

SO, I get my rear inside the cab insert the key and turn the enigne over and I get Nothing for oil pressure. I did this for 5-cycles of 8-10 seconds and still no oil pressure...not even a flicker.
I removed the the oil filter and found that it was a dry as can be.

At this point I hit the forums and I find that I have 3-options:
1.) Use the hose that I connected to the oil pressure sensor port to via a manual pump to push oil to the pump for priming.
2.) Remove the oil filter and use a manual pump to push oil through the lower hole back to the pump for priming.
3.) Reconnect the crank sensor and just start like a normal engine...they say the RPM's are to low doing it the other ways? But to stop if I don't get oil pressure within 5-seconds?

According Melling I'm supposed to use an external pressorized tank to prime the engine oil pump. I'm not a professional shop. I'm doing this one truck once and don't want to spend $250+ on a pump that I'll only use once. I'm not cheap just can't justify $$$ for one vehicle.

Thought what I did as described above was right and should have worked buuut it didn't.
What is actually right? Don't want to screw up the engine or the time and money I've invested in this vehicle.

Please advise!
Oct 4, 2026 at 9:39 PM
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STEVE W.
  • ✓Experienced Mechanic
  • 15,352 POSTS
Well the factory method is to use a pressure pump on a dry engine is more to make sure the new tensioners and other parts have oil pressure and don't try to start a dry engine. However the way you did everything it should show pressure at cranking within a few seconds of cranking. You could try option A that you stated, it might work and would save removing parts to check that the pump isn't the issue. This is the method I've used a number of times when replacing the pump with the Melling and haven't had a dry start.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ulEJfcQ7HhA
Oct 5, 2026 at 4:47 AM
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