1989 Ford Thunderbird

IF the catylatic converters are glowing red hot, they are plugged. They need replaced. To confirm this, disconnect them from the exhaust. I am confident this is the problem.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

i removed the cats from the car and it idels pretty good for the most part but when you rev it up it pops and crackles especially while its cold.

Has the check engine light come on? I question if there is a problem with the fuel mixture. Also, have you checked for vacuum leaks, fuel pressure...?

well... the check engine light comes on and goes off. I changed the alternator and it runs a whole lot better now. But i got the car out of the garage today and drove it around the block and when i parked it it wouldn't stay running unless you pumped the gas real fast. the fuel pump is working because you can hear it kick on would a clogged fuel filter do this to a car? please let me know

Yes the filter could have something to do with it. However, I am more interested in why the check engine light is coming on. What I recommend is when you get a fuel filter, go to a nationally recognized parts store and have them scan the computer for you. THat way we'll know what is causing the light to come on. IT may identify the entire problem. Also, at this point I am questioning vacuum leaks, EGR, and temp sensor.

Let me know what codes they find.

Joe

i changed the fuel filter and its still not getting gas to the motor. the car sat for a year before i got it so i'm guessing there is a glogged line because its getting gas to the fuel filter now just not to the motor i tried taking the fuel line off from the motor but its a weird connector. its a round connector with a spring or something inside it, any suggestions on how to get it off? once i get the car running again i'll take it to the parts store and have them run the codes on it. let me know if you know how to get the fuel line off. Thanks

update... I got a disconnect tool and the line is not clogged. i took the fuel filter off and when the fuel pump kicks on there isn't a whole lot of gas that comes out is this normal or should there be a lot of gas that comes out?

You should be getting between 35 and 45PSI from the pump. It should blow out of the hose. If it is hardly coming out, you need to remove the fuel tank and take a look at the pump. If could be plugged from the old gas or just bad.

Let me know what you find.
Joe

update... i got the car running real good the check engine light went off but comes on sometimes when you get on it. i bought a new alternator and it fixed most the problems put new fuel filter on and new premium gas and cleaned the fuel pump and it runs so much better but shen i drive it for a while and park it the battery goes dead. i had it tested and it passed but they said the same thing about the alternator. would this be a bad battery or something else? please let me know and thanks for all the helpful info!

Here is what I want you to do. You are going to check for a constant draw on the battery. I wll list the directions at the end of this post. WHat I need you to do is this. IF there is a draw, I want you to pull one fuse at a time until the draw stops. At that point, we will know the circuit that is causing the draw. Let me know what you find.

https://www.2carpros.com/first_things/why_is_my_car_battery_dead_over_night.htm

Joe

i used a voltage tester and tested the car while its running and it get around 12 and constantly drops when the car is running. what do i need to start checking now? please let me know

I want you to check for a draw on the battery. Here is a how to for checking it:

https://www.2carpros.com/first_things/why_is_my_car_battery_dead_over_night.htm

If there is a draw, pull one fuse at a time until the draw on the battery stops. At that point we'll know what circuit the draw is coming from.

LEt me know what you find.

Joe

do i pull fuses while the car is running? because it holds a charge for days when its not started but when you start it it starts to die

update... i bypassed the cable that runs from the selenoid to the back of the alternator and now the volts are reading 15 volts. is this good or to much? it must of been the fusible link in the wire causing it not to work

It could be a weak battery. What I want you to do is take the car to the parts store and have them load test the battery. If it is good, it will maintain a set voltage under a load. If weak, it will drop off. If the battery is good, I want you to check if there is a constant draw on it. If there is, remove one fuse at a time until the draw stops. THen we will have narrowed it down to a specific circuit.

Here is a how to for checking for draw:

https://www.2carpros.com/first_things/why_is_my_car_battery_dead_over_night.htm

If you want to test the battery yourself, here is how to do that:

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/battery.htm

Let me know what you find. Honestly, if it dies that fast, chances are the battery is no good, but these test will help determine it.

Joe