Replace Engine Mounts 3.8L

Suggest you purchase a repair manual on your make and model vehicle they can provide with the information your requesting.

Thanks for the suggestion. I have one. It says remove the top nut from the mount. If you have ever tried to do that on this engine, you will see that it is quite a bit harder than one would expect. I just thought someone who has done this before might have a suggesiton or two about how to get to these nuts.

1993 taurus gl 3.0 repeated failure of motor mounts. I'm changing them at least yearly and the motor isn't leaking oil and I don't drive it hard. This time it's the front one but they both go bad. I'm using the same Anchor brand hydraulic mounts each time. Can you help me should I change to a solid rubber mount or a different brand? Thanks....Jack

Jack,
It sounds like the parts may not be too good. If the OEM mounts lasted a long time, I would recommend going back to them.

The problem is OEM mounts from Ford are over $150 each the last time I checked. I'm going to try solid rubber mounts and not the factory hydraulic type mounts and see how they hold up. I have a friend who was a ford mechanic and he said he changed alot of them. I emailed Anchor mount co. and they didn't have any tips for me. I'd spend the $300 for 2 mounts if I knew they would last. $300 vs $100 and have them last the same length of time. I'd really be P Oed. I was told that Anchor mounts were top quality mounts. Thanks for the reply....Jack

At those prices, I understand your concern. The solid rubber may be a better choice for you. My only concern with them is some people complaine they feel a vibration in the vehicle after they are installed. The solid mount has more chance of sending engine vibrations throughout the vehicle. Other than that, they are fine.

At some point in the future, it would be nice to hear how they worked out for you. So, if you get a chance, let us know.

Joe

I know what you mean about the vibration as it shakes somewhat now with the bad mount. If it does shake it won't shake long most likely less than a year then I try somthing else....Jack

how do you replace the motor mounts(front) on a 1991 ford taurus wagon? is there any way to see a diagram on line?

There are two mounts, fore and aft in the passenger side of the engine compartment. Remove nuts from their studs in the subframe, the front one though an oblong hole and the rear one in the corner of a squarish bracket. Remove the right wheel and perhaps the fender well liner and remove the two forward mount through bolts from the A/C compressor bracket. The two rear mount through bolts are just above the axle.

On the driver's side, there's one mount for the engine and transaxle, accessible through the left wheel well. Two bolts secure the mount to the frame and one through the round rubber mount to a bracket on the engine/transaxle.

Six cylinder front wheel drive automatic 130,000 miles.

Hello All,

My car is the LX model and was diagnosed by Ford as having weak engine mounts and worn out sub-frame bushings. The engine jumps out of position under stress load such as acceleration from first gear. It make a loud grind and I feel a big thump.

I would like to replace all mounts and sub-frame bushings involved that hold the engine and transmission down. I cannot figure out the parts list by myself. I have read the Haynes Service Manual but cannot figure it out.

Can someone specify the list?

Such as: Front left engine mount, front right engine mount.

Thanks in advanced.

Joe

Is this what you are looking for?

Engine Mechanical problem
1997 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

How do I change them?

Motor mounts just bolt to the engine and to the frame. The only concern you have is the engine needs to be supported when you remove them.

If you have other questions, let me know.
Joe

I have a 92 Taurus Wagon and the front right engine mount has broken 3 times in the last 6 months. Is this normal? I have to get it fixed under warrenty and I think I am getting hosed by the mechanic. I have owned this car since 04/2006 and the first problem with it was 01/2007. Then again, and I was lied to, bac/k in 04/2007 and now today.

I have a 3.0 V6 automatic. This is the third time in 6 months it has broken. The mechanic says it is a hydraulic mounting.

I jacked the front of the car up and found a liqiud sitting on top of the engine mount. Looking under the front of the car, I found a large amount of oil splatter under all of the pieces in the front of the engine compartment. the hose to the A/C broke when i first got the car, but ALL my fluid levels are still fine. The power steering level has not changed and doesn't seem to be actively leaking. But there was a large amount of oil splatter under the compressor assembly. Thoughts?

Wondering if I can get them to fix it if it seemed this is because of the bad job they did the first two times. Seeing they must have missed this both times.

in in this morning and the same mechanic didn't seem surprised to see me. Just waiting on his diagnosis of what is causing the problem. I did mention that thw oil splatter seems to be a result of the engine jumping, but he didn't respond. Will follow up later. Thanx for your insight.

Called the master mechanic of the shop and he had NO clue what caused it to fail. Even probed about the possibility of other factors or liquids causing it and he had no clue. The oil in the under-carriage was from the hydraulic mount exploding. Says it was sheared. Taking to a more trusting mech on Thurs. But thank you for your insight.

Can't afford my own carfax report