Horn not working

Hi!

It sounds like the horn itself went bad which happens all the time but to be sure lets do some simple testing. Here are some guides and diagram(below) that will help you get the job done.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

you will need to get under the car safely

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/jack-up-and-lift-your-car-safely

Here is a guide so you can check the relay as well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Please let us know what happens so it will help others.

Cheers, Ken

Horns are located on lower left front of engine compartment. You have to remove the headlamp for better access. Horn relay is inside the smart junction box under left side of dash. Fuse #38 15A controls it.

Focus: Same location for horn(s). Some have one, others have two horns. Smart junction box under left side of dash fuse #32 20A and a horn relay.

Unfortunately the insane engineers found a solution where there was no problem. Instead of the horn switch turning on the ten-dollar relay to blow the horn, the horn switch now sends a voltage to the most intelligent computer on the car, the instrument cluster, which interprets that and sends a digital signal to the FEM, (Front Electronic Module), which turns on the horn relay. That's right; two computers involved in blowing the horn. The typical repair bill for a dead horn is between $700.00 and $800.00. I hope to hear your bill is much less. The dealer will have to diagnose the problem. You've already done all you can with your dandy observation that the relay, fuse, and horns are okay.

If I had that circuit in my car, I'd be modifying it to work with the simple switch and relay like all cars had in the past. There's no need for this Rube Goldberg system. This isn't just a Ford thing. Most manufacturers are doing the same types of things to purposely make cars unnecessarily complicated and cost us way too much to diagnose and repair.

Remove the pad and check the wire to the steering wheel it maybe lose. Try grounding the contact in steering wheel with a test light. If still nothing you need to prob the turn signal switch harness connecter with the test light. If it works when you prob the turn signal harness connecter and not at the steering wheel contact its in the steering column.

We both forgot to mention the clock spring too. That has a higher failure rate than a computer module.

Normally the clicking sound would indicate the relay is working. However sometimes the switch contacts go bad inside relay. Best way to check relay is to swap with another relay that is same type of relay that controls a different device. If after you swap relays it still doesnt work, locate the horn, and see if the horn is getting 12 volts when horn is pressed. Most of the time the horn itself is bad. T

You have a bad set of horn
check wiring at and around the horn
remove and replace horn

The horn relay is located under the dash on the drivers side. Did you check to see if your getting power at the horn when button is pressed? Its must likely the horn itself.

If they all went at one time, it does sound like a fuse. Even though the fuses look good, you could have a bad one. Determine what fuse is for the affected items and test it. Also, check the fuses under the hood.

Check the fuses. Wiring to the horn. Wiring on the horn itself is not corroded. Then you will need to check the switch itself.

Steering column switches consist of the following components:
Cruise control switch (if equipped).
Horn switch.
Ignition switch.
Multifunction switch.
Multifunction switch, located on steering column, includes turn signal, hazard, headlight dimmer, flash-to-pass and front windshield wiper/washer switches. Ignition switch and lock cylinder are also mounted on steering column. Cruise control switch is integrated into clockspring harness with horn and air bag restraint system, all located on steering wheel. Driver's side air bag is located on center of steering wheel. Steering column switches circuits are protected by fuse No. 7 (40-amp) in Battery Junction Box (BJB), located in engine compartment. Steering column switch circuits are also protected by fuses No. 11, 15, 27, 36 and 38 in Central Junction Box (CJB), located behind left side of instrument panel.

I would look in and around the area where the wires were cut for the other end of them. Before any diagnostic can be performed you need to make sure the circuit it intact

on the belt being too long. Triple check it is routed properly