Check Engine Light On?

They said that it was the oil gaskets and the smoke is coming from the exhaust.

Actually the valve cover gaskets are what they said they replaced when I took it to them to be fixed. My car wasn't holding oil and they said that the valve cover gaskets were leaking. I apologize that I didn't remember the name of what they fixed.

Ten days ago cel came on, took to Ford dealer. Replaced idle air control valve and reset KAM, replaced crankcase vacuum elbows at both valve cover connection. Retest on both replacements was good.
Picked up the car yesterday. As I drove I discovered I had to press hard on the gas pedal to get moving from a complete stop. Got home. Car sat for an hour and a half. Went out again. After about fifteen minutes of city driving check engine light came on again. Still have to press hard on the pedal before car accelerates and then goes fast. This morning same thing. Light was on from start and still pressing hard on pedal.

I can't answer the questions because I do not know what the codes were. Parts were replaced because they were supposedly the cause of the problem.

We have a 2000 Ford Taurus. We have been having trouble with it since August, when we had the required maintenance done by a Ford dealership. The engine started running rough. They said that bad gas had caused the flexable fuel module to go out. We had that replaced, and they also replaced all of the spark plugs. It wasn't long until the same problem came back. We took it back again and they said that the engine had low compression in one of the cylinders and not to worry about it. We took it to a different Ford dealership and had them check it out. They said that the compression was lower in one cylinder, but not enough to hurt. They also put in a new spark plug and wire on the cylinder that had the lowered compression. They told us that it was OK to drive. We took the car to Little Rock, about 200 miles. On the way back, the engine got very rough and the check engine light flashed on an off. We parked it at a Ford dealership in Russellville. When we called them, they said that two of the cylinders had no compression at all, neither of them was the cylinder that the other Ford dealership had said was bad. They said that we would probably have to have the heads repaired and possibly have an engine job. What is your opinion?

Engine Performance problem
2000 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive

I have a dohc v6 2000 ford taurus. The engine light comes on often, also it will flash at times. Autozone said it was a cylinder 1 misfire. I had this in the past, replaced coil packs and plug 10,000 miles ago. The light went off. Then 5000 miles ago it came on again saying the same thing also with poor engine performance. I replaced the EGR valve. The light went off. Now it is back on and off sometimes flashing with poor engine proformance, I had it checked for a vaccum leak, I hear a leak coming from what sounds like under the pentium. I hear it is common, is there another vaccum line under the intake? Is it difficult to replace this gasket?

The car seems to run fine. I has been sitting for several years. I installed a new gas tank and complete fuel pump assembly. I can not get it to pass inspection. The failed report indicates the Catalytic Convertor Efficiency is not ready, Secondary air system not available, Heated catalyst not available, A/C Refrigerant not available, EGR flow not ready, Evaporative Emissions Control Systm not ready.

The o2 sensors, engine misfire, comprehensive component are all ready. There is a new battery in the vehicle and it has been tuned up. Initially I was instructed to drive the car to help reset the computer, but as I recall the light was coming several years ago when I initially stopped driving the vehicle. Any suggestions?

Hi all, and thanks for taking the time to read over my question. I have a 2000 Taurus Wagon, 3.0L OHV, 190 000km. Engine light on, one code, EVAP system slow leak. Unfortunately not the gas cap, but rather the EVAP canister purge valve, as found during a smoke test. A new valve is over $100. I'm just trying to keep the car on the road. I've heard that by driving it with the engine light on, that the computer won't go into closed loop, and will therefore use more gas. Others have told me that this is not the case. Will ignoring this problem and driving the car as is with the engine light on hurt my fuel economy?Thanks.

Smells problem
2000 Ford Taurus Two Wheel Drive Automatic 126000 miles

My car had it's check engine light go on recently got it looked and 'fixed' light went off for a day or two and came back on. I had a pulley fixed and was told the air compressor is going, but now it has a burning smell after driving and some smoke coming from the engine. Help?

I have had a problem when the car starts up for the first time of the day. The engine rumbles and the rpm is around 2000. If I sit there and wait 1 min or so, the engine calms down and I am off and running - no issues. However, if I push it and try to gto right away, I trun the check engine light on and it states that #1 zone misfiired. The delaership has already replaced the sensor on the armature telling teh position of the piston in the engine and the coil pack has been replaced aloong with the spark plug and the wire to the spark plug.

What next?