1997 Ford Taurus No Heat or Defrost. Really need HELP!

Tiny
JUSTDON
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 109,000 MILES
The heater will start out kind of warm and turn cool in about a minute. The same thing with the defrosters. If the heater is allowed to turn cool and then switched to defrost, the air starts out cool and stays there. If the temp control is turned to the cold side, the air will get cold. But when it is turned back to the hot side, the air remains the same temp as the cold side. My wife tells me That if she puts it on vent, it will eventually get somewhat warm.

What has been done.

Cooling system flushed one component at a time. The heater core was fed a strong stream of very hot water. It immediately came out of the other tube. It was allowed to run until it was clear. The same thing was done to the block and radiator.

New water pump was installed. The old one wasn't rusted out or leaking but I changed it anyway.

The by-pass hose and all hard lines were flushed. A new thermostat was installed.

With car at operating temp, I used an autozone laser thermometer on the heater hoses and by-pass hose. According to the thermometer, both heater hoses were sitting at about 185-190 and the by-pass hose was at about 200. Both radiator hoses are very hot to the touch.

The blend door actuator was observed and it appeared to be operating fine. I replaced it any way. No change. While the actuator was off, I worked both heater damper doors by hand. Still the same temp.

I REALLY need you guys on this one.

I can't afford much this time around. I'll make up for it later. Thanks
Friday, August 15th, 2008 AT 9:45 PM

4 Replies

Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Back flush with the long bypass hose clamped, and the water pump hose clamped, if you don't, it flushes thru the bypass. If you isolated the core and flushed, replace the core, or try operating the heater with that long bypass clamped off, works in my 99! These cores are a low spot in the system, and fill with sludge.
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Saturday, August 16th, 2008 AT 7:23 AM
Tiny
JUSTDON
  • MEMBER
  • 150 POSTS
Merlin.

When I flushed at the start of this summer, I removed all hoses and flushed the core, block, and radiator seperate. I used the hot water from our water heater on it's high setting. It flushed the core for about 30 min. And the water remained clear.

Could the core still be bad after all of that? Are there any other doors, dampers, etc. In the heater box besides the two that the blend actuator operate that may be giving me problems?
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Saturday, August 16th, 2008 AT 8:05 AM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Try clamping it, if the heat comes up, the core is partially blocked, VERY tough to flush, it collects all the slugde, almost like coffee grounds in texture. Water takes the path of least resitance, and that's the bypass hose!
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Saturday, August 16th, 2008 AT 8:43 AM
Tiny
JUSTDON
  • MEMBER
  • 150 POSTS
I clamped the by-pass and it only took about 3-4 minutes for the temp gauge to start walking up. I guess I'm off to replace a core.

Thanks for the help
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Saturday, August 16th, 2008 AT 8:56 AM

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