1994 Ford Taurus Changing Brakes, Any Help???

for front brakes remove 2 bolts holding on caliper. compress caliper piston and install new pads. make sure you pump the brake pedal when your done. i hope this helps.

how to do release the calibers compression?
i have figured out how to remove the pads but the calibers needs to be released, hwo do i do this?

you can use a big pair of pliers or a c clamp

I haave a clamp were trying to pressure it together, but it seems like the caliber isnt going back. It doesnt seems seized, its in pretty good condition.
Were working on the rear brakes.

stop!!!! rear calipers are screw in. you must push in anr turn clockwise. sorry i thought you were doing fronts.

So ive tried to push in and turn, it doesnt seem to easy to be pushed in. Prior to your advice, my brother thought maybe pressing the brake to see if that would have retracted it... it didnt. DO you think that is why i cant push and turn it back to normal?

it is very tricky to do even for me. i have a special tool that applies pressure to piston while another one turns it in. but i have done it with regular hand tools. it takes patience, it goes in very slowly. just keep pressure on it and keep turning.

Thanks, that makes me feel alot better lol... I will have to give this a shot, do you suggest clamping the caliper and then with another wrench turning it clock wise?

yes clamp the piston, but not alot of pressure turn it clockwise a little then push in a little and keep doing that.

Okay i will give that a shot, i will let you know how that goes once i get home from work. Lol... Thanks for all your help so far. Quick other question... if you know this one... ill love you lol....

So the taurus has Power everything... Its a 4 door, adn the back windows dont power up or down. And this is for both back door. The master control on my door doesnt work for the back windows either but controls mine and the passenger windows... do you know a solution or where ot start to look for that one?

unfortunately there is some testing you have to do. windows dont work from master switch or either door switch, correct.. now do you know if both rear windows stopped at the exact time. if they did i would suspect the master switch. the door window switches go through the master switch. aka the rear switches go through the master switch then go to rear windows.

Easiest thing to do is rent the rear brake caliper kit from a local autoparts store, if you have one... autozone for example.. it's free, just put a deposit.. make sure you remove the master cylinder cap.. you can tuirn the piston in with a large set of needlenose pliers also, may take some work.. do not buy that stupid little square tool with all the different sized pins on it, it does not fit the Taurus rear caliper.. as far as the back windows, it is a common problem, the motors get wet and corrode, every Taurus I've owned and currently own, with the exception of my 99, has experienced this problem.. motors are easily replace after removing panels..duct-tape the glass up, chop the rivets out, buy some short machine bolts and nuts to re-install.. finding the right length of bolt is critical, not too long..

what is or what does the master cylinder cap look like exactly?
Thanks for the information about going into a local autoparts store to rent the device to do it. That will make life ALOT easier for me...

this is a new path for me, im not too Mechincally inclined, but im learning...slowly :)

on the drivers side under the hood near the firewall you will see your master cylinder(all your brake lines go to it) there will be a cap on it. it will say in small print d.o.t.3 brake fluid only. this is your master cylinder cap.

So okay ive finally got them back in place, almost finished. Ive encountered one problem now tho. I cant figure out how to bleed the brakes....

one of the bleeders can be undone the other side i cant undo, its almost to the point that im stripping the one side... any suggestions on how to bleed the brakes?

ok lets stop here. you should not have to bleed the brakes from replacing the pads. i would leave the one that is stripping alone. make sure your master cylinder is full of dot 3 brake fluid, slowly pump the brake pedal approx 10 times, "slowly" fit helps with 2 people. have the person hold the brake pedal to the floor while you slightly open the bleeder screw that you can open. when the pedal drops to the floor then you close the bleeder screw.(make sure you keep the brake pedal applied until you have the bleed screw shut. repeat procedure until no air comes out. there should be no air in your system due to the fact that you did not have a leak. this should be the end of this brake job. good job!!

oooh man i think this is getting worse. So i thought we were bleeding it fine. We noticed when ever i pressed on the brake, the brake fluid was comming out. Its not comming from the bleeder but the bolt beside it with the tube leading from it, not sure whats that called. Any ideas we the fluid is comming out from here. We previously undid that bolt...we were going to bring the whole thing into a autoshop to but the caliber back in. But we got the caliber repair tool and put it back in place...

any suggestions of waht could be causing this and what should i check for... and maybe re tighten the bolt tighter?

there is 2 copper washers that go on the inside and outside of the line going to caliper. i bet you misplaced one of them or you have them in the wrong place. remember 1 copper washer on each side of line going to caliper.

okay so i found the copper piece we only took out one but one was stuck to the bolt. so i now have piece washers in place.... although all the brake fluid leaked out...

now do i have to bleed the brakes again, like you told me how prior to this...?

yes. exactly like before. dont touch that other bleeder that you could not get open. there will be no air over there.

so i have tested this now with more brake fluid in there, it is squirting out from underneath there...

yes

You can probably get new copper washers at the autoparts store, I believe one per caliper.. weird that they would leak unless removed.. the bleeder screws are pretty soft, they make a bleeder wrench that fits right around it, a socket and some wd40, pb blaster, or some such always helps