Believe me, bleeding the hydraulic clutch line is a nuisance project. Can take forever to get the air out.
If your clutch pedal seems to have excessive play, you likely still have air in the system, no matter how diligently you've bled the line.
In my opinion, the trouble with bleeding the line is at the master cylinder. When installed to the firewall, the outlet hose from the master cylinder is at a lower level than a portion of the cast-iron housing, in which case there is always a bubble of air trapped on the top-tip of the cast housing.
I've had moderate luck removing the master cylinder from the firewall, turning the unit to some way that the orientation is twisted, and then start pumping away at the rod. The twisting causes the air bubble to work itself into the hose, and then finally out the slave cylinder bleeder valve. Then you'll have a firm pedal.
Here are the instructions on how to replace and bleed the clutch master correctly in the digicams below. Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.
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Monday, March 23rd, 2009 AT 8:10 PM