check engine light on?

You might want to check the fuel pressure. This guide can help us get the codes

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/ford-lincoln-mercury-obd1-1995-and-earlier-diagnostic-trouble-code-definition-and-retrieval

Please run down this guide and report back.

I checked everything i put new wires new plugs new filter new oil and a new ecp valve nth has seem to work it idle low and wants to stall and worse in gear. Maybe clogged maf or something i checked all vacuum leaks none. Any ideas

Go to a an auto parts store and have the computer scanned for code/s if any present-post them so we can unshackle it

Already did today is said it passed no codes at all so i dont have a clue

But To Give Gas Dosent Wanna At...?????????????????? what is it doing when you stomp on it-bogs and then picks up or stalls out??????????????? Give us more to work with so we can knock this out and move on to the next phase

It runs fine when i stomp on it and it dosent bogg or anything only when im idleing or taking off it sputters a lil when im in the sweet spot for the gas

Check/test the TPS and MAF sensors

Would cleaning the maf help maybe or un plug it and see if it runs any better?

Try cleaning the MAF and see what happens-unplugging it and it runs better the problem is still there-

I cleaned it and when i took it off it was really clean no debris dirt or anything was in it now i think only other thing is throttle positing sensor?

I drove teuck today it will run idle in park sometimes and sometimes want when in gear it will bogg down slow and spits and.sputter when taking off i che,k mass air flow senzor and its fine only thing i know of left is throttle control sensor

Check the TPS closed and wide open throttle voltages

Engine light stays on.

Good afternoon,

This means there is a fault in the fuel control system.

We need the code to help you narrow the area of failure.

You will need a shop that can read the old OBD1 system for codes. Parts stores that read it for free do not have the readers for the older systems, just the newer ones.

Once you get me the code, I can help you get to a resolution.

Roy

lately my ranger has been having trouble and has been cutting back when i try to accelerate. when it happens the check engine light comes on and i can hardly get the speed to forty mph, then it comes out of it and runs alright for a while and then repeat the same thing, almost seems like a sensor or something. if anyone has any ideas i would appreciate hearing them.

my buddy had a problem like that after he changed the throttle positioning sensor. it turned out the new sensor was garbage and he put the old one back on and it runs perfect. So maybe you actually have a bad sensor and needs replacing. expensive though.

I let it set for 24/36 hours and it has gone out and starts okay and light is out.

Welcome to 2CarPros.

What I suggest is to check for diagnostic trouble codes. Since the light does come on, there should be a code that will help identify the problem.

The symptoms sound like they could be related to a crankshaft position sensor, but to make sure, here is a link that explains how to retrieve codes from and OBD1 Ford system, which your vehicle has.

Follow these directions:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/ford-lincoln-mercury-obd1-1995-and-earlier-diagnostic-trouble-code-definition-and-retrieval

The only tool needed is a test light. Here is a link to help with that and a wiring checking link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

I have a 1992 ford ranger with a 2.3 fuel injected, what would code 224 powertrain control module detected coil 1,2,3,4 primary circuit failure dual plug on a auto x-ray mean? The truck runs for a litte bit then the check engine light comes on and the truck starts acting like its staving for gas. When I run the auto x-ray it clears it up and can drive the truck for a day or so then its start all over again. please help.

That would be the crankshaft timing sensor. It's a magnetic switch on the end of the crankshaft pulley hub. It synchronizes the ignition coils to fire in proper sequence. I can give you the procedure for changing it, but it's lengthy, a lot of typing and my fingers are tired right now. I'll see if I can find the procedure online where I can cut and paste it or you could by a Haynes book and follow the procedure from there.

do you mean the Crankshaft Position Sensor? I have been looking and can't find anything about a Crankshaft timing sensor. Also is there anyway to test it? Could you please tell me were it's at and how to do it. I do have a Haynes book.

It's the same thing. It senses the crankshaft position, sends 2 signals to the computer, one for base timing/rpm and the other for the proper firing sequence of the igniion coils. I can't find anything on how to test it. I would be pretty sure that it's bad with the code you got. It could be the wiring also. Inspect the wiring from the sensor, there is a grey, dark blue, red/green stripe, and black/orange stripe, 4 wires going to it. Also check/inspect the wiring going to the coil pack. You may want to test the coil pack also, by checking the primary resistance and secondary resistance according to the book. It's easy to check. The Haynes book I have for your truck is "Ford Ranger and Bronco II" , 1983 thru 1992. The removal and installation is on page 5-5. To test the ignition coil is on the preceding page. The sensor is located under the timing belt OUTER cover according to the book. If you have a different book for some reason, send me a private message with your e-mail address and I can scan the pages and e-mail them to you.

I put in a new Crankshaft Position Sensor, both coil packs , spark plugs and wires. The truck is still getting the some code 224. It is also still running the some way. Any more ideas??????

Are you sure you installed the wires correctly on the large electrical connector. Also, did you get a CPS positioner tool, to line up the new sensor. I think a Ford dealer is the only place you could get one. If you don't use the positioner tool, the CPS won't be lined up right.