1993 Ford Probe Bad Idle and cutting out

Tiny
MO887680
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 FORD PROBE
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 230,000 MILES
I have this old Probe for a gas mileage car. It's always run a bit rough especially at idle speed but never cut out. But lately it did cut out and then won't start until I turn the key off and pump the gas for a bit. I'm seeing the fuel cut off light flicker before it dies. So, I thought maybe fuel pump. I tried the reset switch in the hatch. Nothing was tripped. I checked the fuel pump relay and swapped it with another. No luck. It runs pretty good at start up but after it gets warmed it'll start knocking and now does the cut out. Could it be fuel pump or maybe bad/dirty injectors? Maybe fuel filter? If fuel pump, I have to drop the tank to fix right. Any thoughts would be helpful. I'm donating $5 to your site. Thanks guys,

Mike
Friday, April 25th, 2008 AT 10:13 AM

14 Replies

Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,121 POSTS
Yes you will have to drop the tank to replace the pump. But first lets check a couple of other things. Fuel pressure regulator, and ignition. You can always check the injectors with noid lights /they're little led lights that flicker with injector pulse. Im gonna send you a couple of links so you can check those other things I mentioned
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Friday, April 25th, 2008 AT 1:18 PM
Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,121 POSTS
Go here for ignition and spark:

https://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_video/test_engine_ignition_system.htm
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Friday, April 25th, 2008 AT 1:19 PM
Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,121 POSTS
And go here for fuel pressure:

https://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_video/test_fuel_injection_pressure.htm

let me know what happens
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Friday, April 25th, 2008 AT 1:20 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
The other thing you might want to look at, are there any codes? Check engine light on or flashing? Also test that inertia switch, it could be the reason the fuel keeps shutting down. Where does the KNOCK sound like it's comming from? The lower part of the engine, or the upper? Your knock sensor could be shutting the engine down, if you already have a mechanical problem with the motor, it will have to be repaired!


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_Inertiab_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_Inertiaa_1.jpg

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Friday, April 25th, 2008 AT 2:18 PM
Tiny
MO887680
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Thanks guys. I'm going to check that ignition and fuel pressure first and get you some answers. BTW, the engine light does flicker on and off sometimes when driving. Not sure whether the knock is lower or upper in the motor but I'll check. And, if that inertia switch is tripping wouldn't it stay tripped until I pressed it? It wasn't tripped when I checked it.

Thanks
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Monday, April 28th, 2008 AT 8:25 AM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
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This is to TEST the inertia. If it.S not functioning correctly it will do strange, not predictable things!
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Monday, April 28th, 2008 AT 1:12 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
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https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_95_OBD_OLDER_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_95_OBD_OLDERa_1.jpg


Clearing codes, Carb models: Disconnect negative battery cable for ten seconds.
FI Models: Disconnect negative battery cable for ten seconds then press brake pedal five times.
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Monday, April 28th, 2008 AT 1:21 PM
Tiny
MO887680
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
I tested a few things. I changed the inertia switch (because it was easy) and the car started and then cut out again. So, I ruled that out. I couldn't find the fuel pressure testing port to check pressure but do smell fuel and see the plugs are wet. But, now after messing with this I can't get it to start at all anymore. I checked for spark and it has nothing at all now. I'm thinking that distributor (with the built in coil and module might be dead. I did double check that plugged everything back in correctly. What do you think? If I do change that distributor out out, is there a way to make sure that dist. Shaft is at the correct starting point (top dead center) to be sure the timing is on?

Thanks!
Mike
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Monday, May 12th, 2008 AT 12:38 PM
Tiny
MO887680
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
I almost forgot, is there any way to test that Probe distributor to see if it actually is the problem before I buy one? Kind of stuck with it if I do buy it. Or, is there a good way to test the ignition to get a better idea of where the problem lies?

Thanks,
Mike
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Monday, May 12th, 2008 AT 2:09 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
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Need the engine size for specific tests, other than the common test for spark, also if gas is not the problem, remove the fuel pump relay so you don't fill the motor with it!
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Thursday, May 15th, 2008 AT 12:41 PM
Tiny
MO887680
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  • 6 POSTS
Cool. It's the twin-cam 4-cylinder engine from the basic 1993 Probe. Good thought on the relay so I'm not pumping fuel into those cylinders. Thanks in advance.
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Thursday, May 15th, 2008 AT 1:41 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
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Look on the VECI label under the hood it will give you the engine size in liters. There are 3 4 cylinder engines.
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Saturday, May 17th, 2008 AT 6:06 AM
Tiny
MO887680
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Looks like the hood says it's a 121.5 Cu. In. I cross referenced that with the manual and it says this is a 2.0L. 16-valve 4 cylinder. And, this is the automatic transmission BTW. Sorry about that.

Thanks,
Mike
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Monday, May 19th, 2008 AT 10:06 AM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_Ignitionb_2.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_Fig6_2.jpg


Gennerally with Fords, it turns out to be the TFI module, screwed to the side of the distributor.
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Monday, May 19th, 2008 AT 1:00 PM

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