Starter Solenoid and Wiring?

The starter relay is in the engine compartment fuse box-make sure power is coming out of the ignition switch thru the transmission range sensor white and pink wire in the cranking position of the switch before you replace the starter relay

Starter solenoid wiring diagrams below.

I hope you have not blown fuses or done something bad! This is the old style ford solenoid all of the accessories go on the battery cable side with the battery cable the starter is all that is on the other big lug

"s" and "i" are all that should be left. With my info below, and a voltmeter, you may be able to find out which is "s"

"old ford type" solenoid system, your acces, may vary (this was really intended for jeep cj people!)

1) positive cable from battery

2) out to starter motor

3) on my jeep, this goes to the alternator

4) this feeds my fusebox (all of my accessories)

5) "s" wire is from key, 12v only while you are "cranking"

this wire activates the solinoid's electromagnet, which in turn, connects---a and b internally (only the 2 large gauge cables can handle the amperage the starter "pulls").

When the solenoid is activated, it throws 12v to starter using the large gauge cables (1) pos from batt--thru solinoid internal connection--(2) to the starter, while key is in "cranking" mode.

This is the total reason for a solenoid, because it would not be practical, to run the heavy cables to and from your key switch.

6)"i" wire (optional), feeds coil "full 12v", only while "cranking", after you release the key, the coil reverts back to reduced voltage, supplied by your key in the "run" position.

7) "solenoid mount" ground, unit must have a good ground (batt. To engine, engine to frame, frame to body [all must connect, somehow] )

(3 and 4, on my jeep) are fusable links, all are not marked, my #3 is, #4 is not. Its sort of a "wire" fuse.

If they are good, tugging on them will be just like a wire, when they are "burned up", they will stretch out lke a rubber band.

If your solenoid is good---just not getting a "signal" from the key--we can test that too! (Then you will know which direction to chase this problem)

"s" is the wire that activates the solenoid----we can sorta cheat it!

Regardless what you do to cheat it, you are suppling 12 volts to the "s"('s) terminal on the solenoid. This is momentary as if you are cranking with the key

stay clear of moving parts!In park--or emergency brake on!

I prefer a "remote starter switch"

a jumper wire momentarily touched or a screwdriver touching pos battery or pos battery cable to the "s" terminal will by-pass the wire from the key

this will for sure let you know whether its a solenoid problem or a key ( ignition switch not delivering 12 volts)

this will start your rig if your key is in the "on" position

if you changed your coil and did not get the one that says, "for use with external resistor only". You need to get that one! You have just "doubled" your resistance (w/ one with a internal resistor), and do not have enough volts to make it fire! (Your resistor is a "resistance wire" going to the coil already!)

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

It's really not all that complicated.
The battery cable attaches to the near side large post. The cable to the starter goes to the opposite large post. The ignition trigger wire pushes onto the terminal marked "S". All the remaining wires go on the battery cable side.

Sounds like "S" wire has 12 Volts all the time. Can you remove the wire and Verify this with a voltmeter, or a 12Volt test light?

Did my "Wrong Solenoid" PICS help you at all, or do you think, you have something crossed?

Lastly, Whether your Solenoid is NEW OR OLD, it could be STILL BE BAD, and "Sticking"!

Your Turn

The Medic

Hi Jeri,

Have you tried jump starting it? Just because your battery has or holds a full charge doesn't mean it is not bad. If the CCA (Cold Cramking Amps) are low all you will get is the clicking. So, try jump starting it, if it starts go by your local auto parts store and have them check to battery.

Post finding.

.

Hello, I came across this.

obxautomedic is correct, if something is wrong with the battery or cables, you need to fix that first.

Ok, this is the seleniod by the battery. There are actually more than 3 wires that are connected to it.

Wire 1 positive cable from battery to large terminal closest to battery. Other side or seleniod the large terminal should have all the other wires with eyelets, then inbetween the large terminals are 2 small terminals one should have an "I" and one an "S" there should be a small wire that should push on it will go on the "S" Terminal.

.

The two small ones should be lable S and I the S is where the ignition switch start circuit hooks up to and the I goes to the ignition bypass-which means it goes to the ignition coil positive terminal to apply full battery voltage during cranking mode-

Check to see if power is going through ignition switch to relay first it should go to one of the small wires on relay if not it may be a neutral switch. Fuel pumps can go out like yours, however check to see if there is no blockage in fuel line. Take a small gas can and run hose to inlet side of pump then try pumping into jar that will tell you if pump Is good or not. Some of the ignition switches would burn up behind them and ford used to sell a kit to just replace that part but I think you need round pins. I still have them in my tool box lol. As far as interior lights check your door switches they usually rotted out and wires fell off. The turn signal can be a bad bulb as well as shorted wire or t/s switch.

They may be wired wrong if they are doing that. Should be green white wire to LH side and blue/white wire to RH side for turn signals. It will be that color wire all the way back to turn signal switch. Also check ground on both which is black wire. The ground can be connected to body/bumper or near the battery

To get that out break the bulb with pliers, take needle nose pliers and bend base so pliers will grab it then twist to take out normally. Clean base with a round wire brush then use dielectric compound when putting new bulb in it's at auto parts stores. Also if socket is shot you can get new guts for it at auto parts as well.