Check engine light on

You need to start by getting the codes, then we can proceed.

https://www.2carpros.com/dia/how_to_scan_trouble_codes.htm

This guide will help us

The check engine light came on and has not gone off, the car idles and stalls almost completely when stopped at intersection(red light), the engine mounts were replaced two years ago. I read about Ford SPI engine dropped valve seat-problem starting at about 70,000.can you please tell me how what type of specialty shop is best to diagnose this problem? If it is the dropped valve-seat problem and the top end the valve seats come loose from the cylinder head and drop into the cylinder and if it is in little chunks then they sometimes they can blow out your exhaust pipe and be okay and you just kind of it smokes and you have the cylinder head replaced. What type of shop would be best to get the cylinder head replace. I read you can get the reconditioned heads from eBay or is it better to get from salvage yard? What type of machine shop would service machine shop cylinder head valve job? Is it better to get another engine that to have the cylinder had valve job done? I noticed smoke from exhaust but I did not connect how it may have been related to this. I am on limited funds.

first thing is to quit believing every thin you read a lot of these people are quacks. then go to an auto parts and get it scanned for codes they do it for free then get back with the code to us do not have auto parts sell you any parts. if you drop a valve seat you can pretty much kiss the engine goodbye, but get us the code first. If it is a misfire code then go see a mechanic misfire codes are 0300-0304 because it can be anything. but if not get us the code.

Autozone code P2195.

is this a natural gas powered car? if not these are what to look for in picture. if it is an O2 sensor number one is before converter two after converter. See picture.

hello,
my 2003 focus lx 2.0L L4 SOHC ~18,000 miles has had the engine light so i went to autozone to read the code.
Autozone obd2 printout says "P2195 lack of heated oxygen sensor- Bank 1 Sensor 1 HO2S11 switch- sensor indicates lean"
they said "Your car is burning more fuel. It's a common problem. It's usually the 1st sensor to go out. It's possibe to DIY. It looks like a spark plug in the exhaust pipe b4 the catalytic converter by exhaust manifold."
I checked with Herko Automotive Group and they said "For your car 2003 FORD FOCUS 2.0L L4 SOHC in the position sensor 1 (Upstream) you need the oxygen sensor number SG1813."
1. i think i see whee the bank 1 sensor 1 in front of the engine but can someone post a pic highlighting the location
2. how reliable is this advice from autozone & herko? should i just replace the sensor or what's the next likeliest fix for this ?

Hello,

Ok, there are a few things that can cause the code you are getting....


40) For Continuous Memory Only DTCs P1130, P1150, & For KOER & Continuous Memory DTCs P1131, P1132, P1151, P1152, P2195, P2196, P2197 Or P2198: Upstream HO2S Not SwitchingContinuous Memory DTCs P1130 and P1150 indicate when an HO2S fails to switch due to a circuit or fuel at or exceeding a calibrated limit. KOER and Continuous Memory DTCs P1131, P1132, P1151, P1152, P2195, P2196, P2197 and P2198 indicate a concern when fuel control system does not detect HO2S switching for a calibrated time. DTCs P1130, P1131, P1132, P2195 and P2196 refer to HO2S-11. DTCs P1150, P1151, P1152, P2197 and P2198 refer to HO2S-21. Possible causes for these faults are:

Fuel System - Excessive fuel pressure, leaking or contaminated fuel injectors, leaking fuel pressure regulator, low fuel pressure or engine running out of fuel or vapory recovery system fault.

Induction System - Air leaks after MAF sensor, vacuum leaks, PCV system or improperly seated engine oil dipstick.

EGR System - Leaking gasket, stuck EGR valve or leaking diaphragm or EVR.

Engine Mechanical - Engine oil overfilled, cam timing, cylinder compression or exhaust leaks before or near HO2S.

Also, I would check for a burnt fuse, since the O2 Sensor is Heated it requires a fuse.

As far as the Advise from AutoZone - they are only reading what the Code Def is and not what other conditions can cause the code and they would love to sell you an O2 Sensor that you may or may not need.

As for the Herko Automotive Group I honestly haven't heard of them, so cannot say.

Image below

The engine light keeps comong on. It has been to a mechanis twice and yet the problem still exists. The last time the repair cost $200.00. What elso could be the problem?

The only way someone can help you on this website is if you tell us what the trouble code(s) is/are.
Go to an autopart store like autozone; they can scan your car and retrieve the trouble code(s) for free.
Once you have the code(s), post back with them and we’ll start from there.

The car has engine light code p2195 4 cyl auto need flow chart to check code to see problem the car will run but at time the car will just die and start fine but idles low front o2 has been changed fuel pressure was checked had 31 psi

Ignition System
Faulty Evaporative Emission System
EGR &/Or PCV System
Air Intake System
Engine Oil Contamination
Fuel System
Exhaust System Leaks Or Restriction
Engine Cooling System
check all that first including checking air intake for holes and check O2 sensor for a broken wire.

Went to the dealership, was told that it was the imrc actuator, I took apart what I believed is the vac actuator, I wanted to know if this is the correct piece. I also wanted to know if there is a small test I can preform on the actuator while it's out the car to see if it is indeed the correct piece.

More information: I have two imrc solenoid on top of the intake. And followed the one of the right to get the the actuator that I pulled out. I assumed that this is the bank 1, the bank that is giving me the code p2004. Did I pull out the right one for bank 1 or is it the other "actuator" that is connected to the solenoid on the right side that is giving me the cel. I'll include pictures.

If I was indeed right the whole time can someone direct me to where I can buy a new actuator.

Here is what I think is the actuator.

The two solenoids on the top of intake, the one of the right was connected to the piece it took out

Alil hard to see but that's the spot where I took the piece from you can see the vac line there. What looks like the other solenoid is connected too is that grayish piece in the middle (the second actuator?)

Why are you so confident that component is the cause of the code? There are 22 pages of tests to resolve that code.

check engine light on -diagnostic test say #2 cylinder misfire and oxygen sensor bad where is #2 cylinder and how do i repair problem

Hi amckey,Welcome to 2carpros and Ty for the donation. Start by checking the spark plug,compression and fuel injector on #2 cylinder.

The mechanic told me it was under the throttle body, on the right side of the intake, which vac lines in it. So that's where I looked and found. I also followed the right solenoid to get to that piece. So I'm like 80% sure. That's why I'm here...for the other 20%.

The mechanics, told me it was actuator. As they checked out my car for the day.

You can't assume that is the problem. There are a dozen other reasons that code could set.

The mechanics told me it was the actuator and they had a hard time looking for the part so they let me have my car back till they can find and buy the part somewhere. So I now have the opportunity to fix the problem myself after getting the free check up. Can you answer my question please.

Being that it's an inline 4 cylinder car, I have nothing to identify bank 1 from bank 2 since it only has one bank. You can test the actuators with a hand vacuum pump to determine if they are working properly. As far as purchasing one, the dealer is the one and only place that I believe sells this.

My car is stressing me out. I've got a Ford focus ZX3 2003 with 80,000 miles which makes it right past the insurance coverage. The car as of late has been stuttering as it comes to a stop. Also! When driving from low to high speeds the car lags when shifting and has even stopped accelerating while on the freeway like the car switched into nutreul. Scary stuff. I have no Idea what is going on. No check engine light comes on and it is occuring more frequently.

I'm college with a budget of whatever is in my pocket. Help would be appreciated and I have heard that you guys were the guys to ask. Thanks.

Update... AAMCO just called me with a transmission check and said I'm leaking fluid through a pressure release valve. I don't know how long I have been driving with low trans fluid but hopefully damage to the transmission is limited.

Still excepting thoughts.

What is the level of your transmission fluid?

Currently empty. As soon as AAMCO filled the trans with fluid and then drove it around the block for a test ride it was empty by return. I know, not good.

uuuhhh, yeah.

So you do have an idea of what is going on.
Transmission fluid leak as a start and now a transmission most likely.

Fulenbach said:


How much is general transmission work costing? How much is a new trans for a 2003 Ford Focus costing on average so I don't get ripped off?

And should I go with warranty extensions?

Thanks for your help.



My opinion is to put in a jasper remanufactured transmission, it has a 3 year/75,000 mile warranty.


Before you do that you need to fix whatever is leaking. Then fill up the tranny and see how it goes, maybe you got lucky.

This is a follow up question the 2003 ford focus 2.3 litre it cuts out when idles and say the check engine light is off can you still retrieve the trouble code from the scanner,because the check engine light comes on for awhile then will go off but it still cuts out when idle?

code readers will not pick up history codes. a regular scanner at a shop will do this

Roy

What are history codes this has been happening for about a month or so, at first when the check engine light came on it quit cutting out then when it went out it cut out at idle again,but it only did that a couple of times but now it cuts out at idle light on or off,so why is that and why is the light go on for awhile and go off for awhile?

intermittent failure. we need the code to figure which direction to go on.

Roy

Hello I have a Focus RS 2003 The engine management light has come on and the diagnostics kit said it was due to low intake temp, Now it has stopped coming onto boost and lost alot of power, any ideas what i sould do?

Cheers James

Can you post the exact codes set in the ECU?

Mark (mhpautos)

I don't know the exact codes but when i took it to Graham Goode's the diagnostics said the engine management light was on due to 'low air intake temp'

A couple of months ago it started cutting out at idle only not stalling.The check engine light didn't come on for awhile,when it did come on, it quit cutting out it ran fine,then the light went out and it started doing the same old thing.But now the light will come on for awhile and it will go out for awhile.But it cuts out all the time now light on or off.Does anyone have a theory for this?

we need the code to start. it could be a missfire from plugs or wires or a vacuum leak from the pcv line

Roy

I just put new plugs in it and it don't have plug wires it is coil on plug,and you are right I just have to have it scanned when the light comes on

was driving car last week and engine warning light came on followed by auto tranmission light followed by red on tempreture gauge, took it to mechanic he stated that it could need head skimming and head gasket after looking at diagnostic machine, he then took it for a drive, came back , turned off warning lights and said it seemed that id been lucky and if it happens again to take it back to him,,,,,,, i then drove at a slow pace for five days then yesterday morning i took the car out, drove just over 60 mph, and the tempreture gauge went to red , auto transmission light came on followed by the engine warning light , drove home very slowly as car lacked power and was shuddering?

scanners never tell you the issue. it gives you a direction of failure.

get the codes and we will start

overheating may have damaged the head gasket now.

suggest a new shop.

roy