1989 Ford F-250 clutch

Tiny
NOLF
  • MEMBER
  • 1989 FORD F-250
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 6,700 MILES
Peddle sucks right floor
Saturday, December 13th, 2008 AT 8:14 AM

1 Reply

Tiny
DAVE H
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,383 POSTS
CLUTCH HYDRAULIC SYSTEM
NOTE:On all models, disconnect master cylinder push rod if slave cylinder is to be disconnected from release lever or bearing. Permanent damage to slave cylinder will occur if master cylinder is activated with slave cylinder disconnected.

Removal
Note position of clutch pedal push rod. Disconnect master cylinder push rod from clutch pedal by prying retainer bushing and push rod off shaft. Remove reservoir from cowl access cover or from electrical box cover. Remove clutch master cylinder retaining nuts and remove master cylinder.
On "F" Series and Bronco, when master cylinder studs are free of dash panel, rotate cylinder 105 degrees counterclockwise to permit interlock switch to clear dash panel.
On all models, remove tube, fitting (if equipped), master cylinder, and reservoir as an assembly. Plug lines. Remove transmission and bellhousing. Note position of slave cylinder and remove from bellhousing.
NOTE:For 2.9L 4WD models, bellhousing must be removed with the transmission.

Installation
Install slave cylinder. Ensure slave cylinder is properly engaged in notches of clutch housing. Install transmission and bellhousing. Insert master cylinder push rod through opening in firewall.
Ensure push rod is located on correct side of clutch pedal. Attach master cylinder to firewall. Insert tube and fitting in clutch slave cylinder. Install fluid reservoir on access cover.
Install bushing and push rod on clutch pedal. Bleed hydraulic system. See HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING under SERVICE (IN-VEHICLE) in this article. Depress clutch pedal at least 10 times to check for proper release and smooth operation.

HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING
Clean area around reservoir cap. Fill reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid. Place hose on bleeder screw to prevent brake fluid entering bellhousing. Loosen bleed screw and maintain fluid level in reservoir.
Fluid and bubbles will flow from hose attached to slave cylinder bleeder screw. Close bleeder screw when fluid stream is free of air bubbles. Ensure proper fluid level and install reservoir cap.
Place light pressure on clutch pedal and open bleeder screw. Maintain pressure until pedal contacts the floor. Close bleeder screw while pedal is fully depressed. DO NOT allow pedal to return before bleeder screw is fully closed. Recheck fluid level.
On Aerostar models, check Red supply tube for air bubbles while clutch pedal is being operated slowly. If air exists, tap on tube so air will rise to master cylinder reservoir. System should now be fully bled and working properly.
On all models, test system operation by starting vehicle, depressing clutch and placing gearshift in Reverse. No grinding should be heard or felt with clutch pedal within 1/2" (13 mm) of floor. If noise is heard, check for air in system. Repeat bleeding procedure if necessary.

CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER PUSH ROD LENGTH ADJUSTMENT
Bronco, "E" & "F" Series
Tighten attaching nut on left side of clutch pedal. Reinstall clutch master cylinder push rod to the cross shaft lever pin.
Pump clutch pedal several times to reset position of shaft to the pedal slot (this step is mandatory).
Remove clutch master cylinder push rod from lever pin and evaluate alignment. If the 2 components are still not in alignment, replace cross shaft lever. If push rod is aligned with pin, no further action is required.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Saturday, December 13th, 2008 AT 8:52 AM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links