Brake rotor and hub assembly

If you are having trouble removing it, you can try heating the rotor where it attaches to the hub and it may come off that way. If you are not worried about the rotor, put a couple of the lug nuts on a few threads and use a heavy hammer to beat it off. The lug nuts will stop the rotor from flying if it pops off.

Let me know if you have other questions. Also, if you need to save the rotor, don't beat on it.

Joe

Hi there,

I hope that this shows everything you need.

There are 2 rotors normal duty and heavy duty,

P/No normal 8L3Z112B $215. Approx
P/No heavy 8L3z112A $280. Approx.

mark (mhpautos)

Lets start with this
can you see what are you looking for

Has upper ball joint been removed? May need to tap on axle with brass or rubber mallet. Will need to remove torsion adjuster to remove lower "A" arm. See diagram

Looks like you have the vacuum operated front hubs. Be sure the vacuum lines to them are hooked up and not cracked/broken. If ok follow them up the the engagement source and check the vacuum lines there, you may just have a small leak somewhere

If your truck is a 4 wheel drive it doesn't even have a bearing hub assembly. It has individual bearings that are serviced separately.

To do what?
You haven't even stated what your problem is or what you plan to do to correct it.

The flat rate time to replace 2 bearings on one side is 1.1 hr. And it does require some special sockets.

Something else to check is the front axle shaft u-joints. On a lot of the older trucks when they go bad they will cause a severe pull when turning, because they are siezes. This makes the opposing side push. In order to inspect them properly, the hubs should be removed. They shouldn't "fly apart" unless they are broken, but you can pull them out and just lay them out on the ground like they came out of the truck. Then you have to remove the brakes and the hub. The shaft will slide out (sometimes a little effort is required) and you should be able to tell if the u-joints are frozen.