1999 Ford F-150 starter relay

PAPOUDENNIS

MEMBER
1999 FORD F-150

Electrical problem
1999 Ford F150 V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 100k miles

when turning the key, there are no sounds and no indication from the gauges that electrical current is flowing. I can start the engine by shorting the celenoid. My local auto part store sold me a starter relay (a solid plastic thing approx 4 inches wide) that looks like it should just plug in somewhere. I can't find anything near the fuse panel or under the hood that looks like it. Where could this be located and does that sound like the real problem?

1 Reply

CJ MEDEVAC

MECHANIC
11,005 POSTS

See my profile. I am not familiar with your rig. It sounds lke a voltage problem at my first glace...I could be wrong!

Disregard some of it, that you know does not pertain to you! For I robbed it from another answer I wrote.

Have your alternator tested at a popular parts store for free.

If they can, test your voltage regulator, too (it is a separate box on Fords)

See if your battery is 12 or so volts---not running.

And 13.8 or so running---to see if you are charging thru alternator/ voltage regulator.

See below, all of this stuff has connections to your charging system in some sort of waygood connections are important! (Especially to recharge your battery)

I made this for "Not Starting Up" questions.

Yours May Not Look Like This, but TAKE STUFF LOOSECLEANTIGHTEN WELLDO NOT JUST PASS IT OFF AS, "IT LOOKS GOOD".

FOLLOW YOUR POSITIVE BATTERY WIRE, IT WILL END UP AT MR. SOLENOID

Do not leave off where the Battery cables connect to the Battery clamps! (not the posts) Do them too!

While you are at it, Both ends of Pos cable, Both ends of NEG cable. (grounds to engine and frame is included)

If you still have the problem, you're probably looking at $20 to replace the SOLENOID. Follow Battery Positive cable to find it.

My stuff may be OVERKILL, but at least you will know what everything is and does.

Like my newly made "NELSOMATIC" stuff? I am cyber stupid, and did that! Keeps me from hunt and pecking so much!

Please Reply, (I get few) Good or Bad. I spent alot of time doing this, I am a member, just like you, NO PAY FOR ME! Just a hobby while laid up, with foot injury (15 months so far)

I will continue to try to help you through your whole ordeal, even if this didn't help you. Just continue to Reply at "reply to question".

Love, Turddog

"FORD TYPE" SOLINOID SYSTEM, YOUR ACCES., MAY VARY

1) POSITIVE CABLE FROM BATTERY

2) OUT TO STARTER MOTOR

3) ON MY JEEP, THIS GOES TO THE ALTERNATOR

4) THIS FEEDS MY FUSEBOX (ALL OF MY ACCESSORIES)

5) "S" WIRE IS FROM KEY, 12V ONLY WHILE YOU ARE "CRANKING"

THIS WIRE ACTIVATES THE SOLINOID'S ELECTROMAGNET, WHICH IN TURN, CONNECTS---A & B INTERNALLY (ONLY THE 2 LARGE GAUGE CABLES CAN HANDLE THE AMPERAGE THE STARTER "PULLS").

WHEN THE SOLINOID IS ACTIVATED, IT THROWS 12V TO STARTER USING THE LARGE GAUGE CABLES (1) POS FROM BATT--THRU SOLINOID INTERNAL CONNECTION--(2) TO THE STARTER, WHILE KEY IS IN "CRANKING" MODE.

THIS IS THE TOTAL REASON FOR A SOLINOID, BECAUSE IT WOULD NOT BE PRACTICAL, TO RUN THE HEAVY CABLES TO AND FROM YOUR KEY SWITCH.

6) "I" WIRE (OPTIONAL), FEEDS COIL "FULL 12V", ONLY WHILE "CRANKING", AFTER YOU RELEASE THE KEY, THE COIL REVERTS BACK TO REDUCED VOLTAGE, SUPPLIED BY YOUR KEY IN THE "RUN" POSITION.

7) "MOUNT" GROUND, UNIT MUST HAVE A GOOD GROUND (BATT. TO ENGINE, ENGINE TO FRAME, FRAME TO BODY [ALL MUST CONNECT, SOMEHOW] )

(3 & 4, ON MY JEEP) ARE FUSABLE LINKS, ALL ARE NOT MARKED, MY #3 IS, #4 IS NOT....ITS SORT OF A "WIRE" FUSE.

IF THEY ARE GOOD, TUGGING ON THEM WILL BE JUST LIKE A WIRE, WHEN THEY ARE "BURNED UP", THEY WILL STRETCH OUT LKE A RUBBER BAND.

Do not ask me computer questions, I am not up to par on that subject!

Ask me anything else! Reply and let me know your outcome.

JUST A LITTLE LOOK OF CONCERN FROM ONE OF MY 2 BABIES!