1997 Ford F150 Starter Relay and burglar circuit

1997 FORD F-150

271,000 MILES • 6 CYL • 2WD • AUTOMATIC

SVOLOVSEK

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Greetings,

Have F-150 that will not starts. Start only clicks and will not engage ring gear or turn over motor. Have replaced starter and initial start relay without change. Background - Truck is old and ignition key can be removed in any position. Stopped truck and put on acc to listen to radio, keys removed from ignition switch in ACC postion to stop dinging. Then turned igntion switch (without key in ignition) to the locked position. Now starter realy will click but not engage starter. Checked fuses, replaced starter and starter relay (solenoid) and same situation. Could it be an ignition switch? Can I replace ignition switch without dealer interference? Thanks, Steve 757-871-0331 (cell)

Apr 25, 2010 at 1:50 PM

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CJ MEDEVAC

CAR REPAIR CONTRIBUTOR
11,004 POSTS

To keep me from hunting and pecking all night, I grabbed an answer, I gave to somebody else. See my profile. All may not apply, pick through and use generalized part of my answer to Jill. Let me know if it helped you, I know your Solenoid looks different, they do the same function! Pasting---- Jill, see my profile, I believe if it were a fuse, It wouldn't work at all. I do not know your rig very well, however, I saw your question, unanswered, and thought MAYBE this might help you, get your Baby back on the road. If the "CRAP" on down doesn't help, It could be the "cable" to the starter (clean/tighten) or the solenoid itself----even the starter......Try this stuff below 1st!!! See my profile. Yours may not look like this, but TAKE STUFF LOOSECLEANTIGHTEN WELLDO NOT JUST PASS IT OFF AS, "IT LOOKS GOOD". Do not leave off where the Battery cables connect to the Battery clamps! (not the posts) Do them too! While you are at it, Both ends of Pos cable, Both ends of NEG cable. If you still have the problem, you're probably looking at $20 to replace the SOLENOID. Follow Battery Positive cable to find it. My stuff may be OVERKILL, but at least you will know what everything is and does. Like my newly made "NELSOMATIC" stuff? I am cyber stupid, and did that! Keeps me from hunt and pecking so much! Please Reply, Good or Bad. I will continue to try to help you through your whole ordeal, even if this didn't help you. Just continue to Reply at "reply to question". Love, Turddog Follow POS BATT CABLE, It will end up here, at the SOLENOID, looks vary, function is the same.

"FORD TYPE" SOLINOID SYSTEM, YOUR ACCES., MAY VARY 1) POSITIVE CABLE FROM BATTERY 2) OUT TO STARTER MOTOR 3) ON MY JEEP, THIS GOES TO THE ALTERNATOR 4) THIS FEEDS MY FUSEBOX (ALL OF MY ACCESSORIES) 5) "S" WIRE IS FROM KEY, 12V ONLY WHILE YOU ARE "CRANKING" THIS WIRE ACTIVATES THE SOLINOID'S ELECTROMAGNET, WHICH IN TURN, CONNECTS---A & B INTERNALLY (ONLY THE 2 LARGE GAUGE CABLES CAN HANDLE THE AMPERAGE THE STARTER "PULLS"). WHEN THE SOLINOID IS ACTIVATED, IT THROWS 12V TO STARTER USING THE LARGE GAUGE CABLES (1) POS FROM BATT--THRU SOLINOID INTERNAL CONNECTION--(2) TO THE STARTER, WHILE KEY IS IN "CRANKING" MODE. THIS IS THE TOTAL REASON FOR A SOLINOID, BECAUSE IT WOULD NOT BE PRACTICAL, TO RUN THE HEAVY CABLES TO AND FROM YOUR KEY SWITCH. 6) "I" WIRE (OPTIONAL), FEEDS COIL "FULL 12V", ONLY WHILE "CRANKING", AFTER YOU RELEASE THE KEY, THE COIL REVERTS BACK TO REDUCED VOLTAGE, SUPPLIED BY YOUR KEY IN THE "RUN" POSITION. 7) "MOUNT" GROUND, UNIT MUST HAVE A GOOD GROUND (BATT. TO ENGINE, ENGINE TO FRAME, FRAME TO BODY [ALL MUST CONNECT, SOMEHOW] ) (3 & 4, ON MY JEEP) ARE FUSABLE LINKS, ALL ARE NOT MARKED, MY #3 IS, #4 IS NOT....ITS SORT OF A "WIRE" FUSE. IF THEY ARE GOOD, TUGGING ON THEM WILL BE JUST LIKE A WIRE, WHEN THEY ARE "BURNED UP", THEY WILL STRETCH OUT LKE A RUBBER BAND.

Apr 25, 2010 at 3:59 PM