why is coil overheating and vehicle vapor locking
Sep 7, 2010 at 2:12 AM
1982 Ford F150 hot coil
PERMITLADY
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- 4 POSTS
See my profile....Imma CJ guy
Are you running the correct coil? On CJs they use a resistance wire instead of a "Ceramic Type Resistor" and you must use a coil labeled, "For External Resistor Only".......A normal running coil will get hot!
Why do you say vapor lock?......Cause a "Friend" said so?.......What are your symptoms.....IN DETAIL?
May be another possibility......how much changing has your rig indured over the years....different from factory....in the engine compartment?
I need all info you can muster
Respond
The Medic
Are you running the correct coil? On CJs they use a resistance wire instead of a "Ceramic Type Resistor" and you must use a coil labeled, "For External Resistor Only".......A normal running coil will get hot!
Why do you say vapor lock?......Cause a "Friend" said so?.......What are your symptoms.....IN DETAIL?
May be another possibility......how much changing has your rig indured over the years....different from factory....in the engine compartment?
I need all info you can muster
Respond
The Medic
Sep 7, 2010 at 12:29 PM
As for the coil I do believe we are running the correct one, not sure if there is a different one but am going to check tonight. We have tried replacing the ICM, the Voltage regulator, the Starter Solinoid(a few times), the starter(a couple times), the alternator, the distributor, cap and rotor. The distributor rotor sometimes gets so hot that it could possibly burn someone. We've also replaced the spark plugs. The coil continues to get extremely hot.
As for the vapor locking, the reason we believe it is vapor locking is that when the engine would get extremely hot before we did a radiator flush, the truck would shut off and there would hardly be any fuel in the visible fuel filter bowl between the mechanical fuel pump and the carburator. Thus causing no fuel to the carb.
Up until time of our purchase of the vehicle, we are not 100% on how much changing the truck has endured. All I know is that we have had to work on it quite a bit this past summer and it has almost cost us more than we paid for the truck.
I am getting very fed up with it stalling on me at the worst possible moments, for example while driving down a very busy street in our town. Its at the point where I don't take it out on the highway like I would like to be able to do. I need this truck as a general means of transportation. If you can help in any way shape or form it would be more than greatly appreciated.
Thank you so very much.
As for the vapor locking, the reason we believe it is vapor locking is that when the engine would get extremely hot before we did a radiator flush, the truck would shut off and there would hardly be any fuel in the visible fuel filter bowl between the mechanical fuel pump and the carburator. Thus causing no fuel to the carb.
Up until time of our purchase of the vehicle, we are not 100% on how much changing the truck has endured. All I know is that we have had to work on it quite a bit this past summer and it has almost cost us more than we paid for the truck.
I am getting very fed up with it stalling on me at the worst possible moments, for example while driving down a very busy street in our town. Its at the point where I don't take it out on the highway like I would like to be able to do. I need this truck as a general means of transportation. If you can help in any way shape or form it would be more than greatly appreciated.
Thank you so very much.
Sep 8, 2010 at 8:18 AM
Roger, on the more info thing!
Is your truck overheating?
A parts store flush helps none an a really caked up radiator....seek a pro radiator shop, they will dissassemble and rod out the lines!
As for fuel to carb.....watching the clear filter is no indication of flow......I have found that with a little extra fuel line, you can elevate beside a filter that appears to be "Empty"....the filter will fill, the real test is to remove the line from the carb.....introduce it into a vessel, crank up and time how long it takes to fill to a SPECIFIED AMOUNT when you crank up
This TEST and other troubleshooting can be found in a CHILTON'S or HAYNES Repair manual.....about $30 and are a world of help and explanations.
If I had to guess at your problem, I would say either:
Carburator adjustments or a VACUUM LINE ISSUE
IGNITION MODULE ISSUE------It can be removed and tested at Advance Auto or Auto zone......Test it 5-7 times to warm it up.....if it fails once, after 4th time, get another.....test the new one, before you leave the store.....TRUST ME!!!
Another "FREE MECHANIC"...Got your attention?....Is a Small time Auto Salvage Yard......The Employees are usually eager to find your problem......especially if they might DO BETTER than your last Encounter with someone wearing a title!
The Medic
Is your truck overheating?
A parts store flush helps none an a really caked up radiator....seek a pro radiator shop, they will dissassemble and rod out the lines!
As for fuel to carb.....watching the clear filter is no indication of flow......I have found that with a little extra fuel line, you can elevate beside a filter that appears to be "Empty"....the filter will fill, the real test is to remove the line from the carb.....introduce it into a vessel, crank up and time how long it takes to fill to a SPECIFIED AMOUNT when you crank up
This TEST and other troubleshooting can be found in a CHILTON'S or HAYNES Repair manual.....about $30 and are a world of help and explanations.
If I had to guess at your problem, I would say either:
Carburator adjustments or a VACUUM LINE ISSUE
IGNITION MODULE ISSUE------It can be removed and tested at Advance Auto or Auto zone......Test it 5-7 times to warm it up.....if it fails once, after 4th time, get another.....test the new one, before you leave the store.....TRUST ME!!!
Another "FREE MECHANIC"...Got your attention?....Is a Small time Auto Salvage Yard......The Employees are usually eager to find your problem......especially if they might DO BETTER than your last Encounter with someone wearing a title!
The Medic
Sep 8, 2010 at 9:08 AM
After the flush the truck acctually runs alot cooler and does not over heat anymore. the only problem I am facing now is it dying on me in the middle of traffic and making a fool of myself by pushing the heavy thing out of the way.
When there is no fuel in the clear bowl, I have no spray out of my jets. I honestly believe my mechanical fuel pump on the front of my engine is going out, it looks old enough to be original 1982 equipment.
I did have my ignition control module checked 8 times at O'Reilly's Automotive, everytime tested possitive. I am leaving here in a minute to go to the O'reilly's to check on the coil.
When there is no fuel in the clear bowl, I have no spray out of my jets. I honestly believe my mechanical fuel pump on the front of my engine is going out, it looks old enough to be original 1982 equipment.
I did have my ignition control module checked 8 times at O'Reilly's Automotive, everytime tested possitive. I am leaving here in a minute to go to the O'reilly's to check on the coil.
Sep 8, 2010 at 9:55 AM
We're going to the parts store and will not be on line until tomorrow. Thanks
Sep 8, 2010 at 10:07 AM
Look for a manual too!......It is something you can use to understand us Too!.....Go thru the troubleshooting guide!
The Medic
The Medic
Sep 8, 2010 at 11:07 AM
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