Engine is stalling while driving?

check fuel pressure with a gauge should be 57-63 psi key on only. These guides can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Please run down these guides and report back.

Hello hmac300,

I appreciate your response, I currently have the engine taken apart, but I seem to remember checking my fuel pressure with key on around 30 psi. According to my Haynes Manual, it should be in the range 30-65 psi.

I will test again and get back to you when I get it all back together again.

Thanks again,
Chris

I don't think Haynes is correct it's 57-73 I made an error first time. key on only

Thanks! the guides really helped me figure out the fuel pump has bad, got a new one running great!

Ok, my wife was driving my 99 for explorer and it just died in the middle of the road. Since then we have not been able to get it started. occasionally it will sound like it is going to turn over, but dies immediately. I disconnected the fuel filter and tested the fuel pump, it was good. Then we check; in no particular order; The Coil (which fired great), the injectors (all fine), The plugs, the plug wires, fuel lines, Inertia switch, the throttle body position switch.... I then replaced the O2 sensor on the transmission, and the Fuel Pressure Regulator. The fuel is making it to the fuel rail, and the computer isn't throwing and error codes,

I am out of ideas... Please Help

Check the fuel pressure with a gauge EFI system don't like low pressures

I have replaced the fuel pressure regulator, and the fuel filter, and I "tested" the fuel pump my disconnecting the fuel line at the filter, and turning the ignition. The pump produced what i would call a decent amount of gas.
So, Since i know the regulator and filter are good,
am i right in assuming that the only thing that could cause low presure would be a week or non-functioning fuel pump?

and since my pump is definitivly sending gas... i guess my question would be,
Will a week fuel pump completly prevent the vehicle from starting?

(The main reason i am asking this is becuase I don't want to shell out the $75 dollars for a gauge)

It might be spitting out fuel but is it 30-65psi as required by specs. Guessing can be costly, also are you getting ignition spark and are the injectors pulsing??

As i say, i do not have a gauge to check the actual Fuel Pressure. The sparkplugs are firing, and the Injector Coil is Pulsing, I used an Ohm meter to test the injectors themselves, they read at 15 ohms which is within the tolerance range of 11-18 ohms that the "Chilton service manual" says means the injector is functional...

If the sparkplugs are firing then you have a fuel problem or a valve and ignition timing

Purchased 18 months ago and ran fine until last month. Progressively harder to start, without pumping accelerator; idle speed lower and beginning to stall when stopped; when accellerating, hesitates initially. Suspect fuel pump (or filter) or mass air flow sensor.

Hi:
Has the check engine light ever come on or have you checked for codes? Most nationally recognized parts stores will scan the computer for free to check. It may be a good idea to start there.

If the light hasn't come on, I tend to agree with you about a fuel related issue. Have you checked fuel pump pressure? Has the fuel filter been replaced reciently? The hard start even leads me to wonder if the pump is good, but there is a leaking injector or fuel line allowing fuel pressure to drop too quickly. Have you ever smelled gas?

Let me know.
Joe

No check engine light, no codes checked (yet), no smell of fuel or noticable leaks. Haven't "checked" anything yet, incl fuel pressure. Filter has NOT been replaced since I got the vehicle 18 months ago, could be 10 yrs old. Noticed a (metallic?) ticking sound from engine a month ago, but sounded more like a belt going bad, based on slowness.

I would recommend checking the fuel filter and then fuel pressure. It may be a good idea to replace the filter just for preventative mainenance.

I have a 1999 Ford Explorer with 140k miles on it. Just recently when driving, if I hit bumps in the road, the engine will just shut off. once I roll to a stop, it will restart. Any thoughts? Bad ground somewhere?

More likely to be a loose connection somewhere. Check for loose wire connectors. Id any wires are loose and hanging around, have them secured to prevent them shaking/moving when vehcle is subjected to bumps.

Thanks! I've been checking connections this morning, but haven't found anything looking suspicious yet.

Go to the parts stores and have a scan performed to check for trouble codes. If any codes are present, that sould be the circuit that you should concentrate on for now.

Engine runs to rich . water drips heavily from exhaust pipe. I had it towed to the dealer and it has been there since Dec 23. The engine will start and idle rough for 10 minutes then stalls. If I put it in gear it immediately stalls. They have replaced the O2 sensers , fuel pump , fuel filter ,spark plugs , cleaned fuel injection , replaced the PCM and replaced the DPFE senser . The engine still runs the same and they say they cant find whats the matter. Has anyone run in to this problem.
thanks, I need my vehicle back , gonehome

Based on the rough idle, I would be checking for vacuum leaks. Also, have they checked the EGR? It could be stuck. They should have checked the fuel pressure regulator when they checked pump pressure, but I hate to assume. Also, the temp sensor could be an issue. It tells the computer both ambient temp and coolant temp. From that, the computer tells the injectors how rich to make the fuel mixture. If it thinks it is -20 degrees F, it will run too rich. One last thing, make sure they checked the catalytic converter to make sure it isn't plugged?

According to them they checked the EGR, the fuel pressure regulatorand the catalytic converter . However its difficult because Im talking to the writer . He says they bypassed the pressure regulater by supplying fuel from a portable sorce directly into the injecter system. now they are taking off the valve cover checking for mechanical damage and the timing chains.

Timing isn't causing the problem. Please keep in mind, it is normal for condensation to drip water when first started. Also, a rich mixture usually is identified by black in the exhaust system as well as black smoke from the exhaust. Based on your description, I would have them check vacuum pressure at the intake to make sure there isn't a major vacuum leak. Also, make sure it is only water coming from the exhaust and not coolant. You could have a bad headgasket. If that has been checked, you are sure it is running rich, plugs and ignition are in good condition, the temp sensor is what I would be looking at next, not the timing.

Jacobandnickolas , thanks for the response . They tell me it runs too rich . Originaly they said the O2 sensers told the PCM to deliver to much fuel . But when that didnt work , and yes they did checke the Vacum . No smoke just dripping water and more than usual and right away . I will mention the Temp senser . This has been a nightmare. Could it realy be this difficult ? The day before the vehicle ran great!Where is this sensor located ? thanks

There are two temp sensors. One tells you how hot the engine is (gauge) and turns the fans on. The other is the one you need to focus on. I believe on your vehicle it is mounted on the side of the block and goes into a water jacket. As far as how it is running, I'm not there to see it. A rich mixture will have an odor when it runs. Often times it will produce black smoke from the exhaust. Those are things you can pay attention to. Also, and I know I already mentioned this, a certain amount of water will come from the exhaust when the vehicle is first started. After about 5 minutes, when the exhaust system is hot, it should stop.

Thank you very much ! I left a message to check the Intake Air Temp senser. They wernt in so I left it on voice mail . I will follow up . If you are interested when they finaly get it done I can email u . If u give me an address.
This sucks that its taking so long I already gave them $1200 up front too .

I would like to know what they find. Let me know.

My 99 ford explorer has a problem with stalling after the engine is ran during warm weather. the car stalls then will restart but will not remain running untill it completely cools down. several mechanics seem to think I am nuts or something. they claim they can find nothing wrong with it. Please help, tired of being stranded at the mall.

Herb

The common problem with the issue your discribing is likely a bad fuel pump. When the pump gets hot it causes the fuel to foam and causesa no start till cool down. Run a fuel pressure test when the problem occurs and see if the pressure is holding steady at 32 to 45 PSI.

When I crank the truck up it begins to run good but when I go approximately 4 miles up the road I begin to hear this knocking noise in the engine and then a few moments later the engine stalls and smoke begins to come from under the hood. I've also had problems going up the smallest hills because it feels like the truck is losing power and won't shift.

Have the exhaust flow checked it sounds like it could be a cat. converter plugged. Is the check engine light on? Let me know what you find and we can go from there.

After driving for about 45 minutes and making 2 stops, my explorer sat for about 40 minutes. When I tried to start it, it didn't sound right and the only way to keep it running was to push the gas pedal, whenever I let off the pedal it wanted to die. The fuel pump still makes the same sound as it always has when turning the key on. 24 hours later, my explorer started and ran like normal. Its a 4.0 OHV . Any ideas ?

Did the check engine light come on?

Let me know.
Joe

No check engine light, and so far it's only happened that one time.

At this point it sounds like a throttle position sensor. However, I can't be sure without the check engine light.

Thanks for the reply. I have noticed lately, when I first start it that the idle has been higher than normal.

Chances are it is what I said, but I can't be sure without a code. Also, have you checked for vacuum leaks? A vacuum leak can cause a similar problem.

my explorer sport's engine cuts out and stalls when my fuel gauge gets at and below 1/4 tank when i'm deaccelerating. Otherwise it runs great!

was the fuel pump replaced ?

About 20,000 miles ago, the fuel tank was lowered and the fuel pump inside replaced... it cost about $450.

[quote:78d8f27e45="lukeav"]About 20,000 miles ago, the fuel tank was lowered and the fuel pump inside replaced... it cost about $450.[/quote:78d8f27e45]
that may be the problem
wrong fuel pump