Whining noise when going down hill and acceleration issues

KHEWLETT511

MEMBER
1997 FORD EXPLORER
4.0L
V6
4WD
AUTOMATIC
174,000 MILES

So I got this vehicle less than two years ago and everything was fine, but just within the last three to four months things have been going downhill. The first thing I noticed is when I am decelerating from speeds above about thirty mph I have a load whining noise from the car that sounds like a fan going really fast and you stick a straw in it to let it hit the blades and the rpm gauge will drop to 500 or even 0 and I am still decelerated at twenty five. As soon as you press the gas though the rpm shoot back up and it stops. Secondly when I am accelerating it has no go. If I am going over twenty mph and push the pedal further than half way it stops accelerating and starts slowing down. Or if I am going fifty five mph up a hill and just want to keep it up to speed I cannot it just will not do it. Even when I am on the interstate going seventy mph and have cruise set if there is a slight incline the cruise light is still on but it drops in speed like cruise is off and I am not accelerating. This forces me to hit break to get pedal back up and keep it at sixty until it is flat again. I have no clue what it is I have looked around and have heard transfer case and transmission problems similar but not sure. Please any help is appreciated. Thank you.

4 Replies

HMAC300

MECHANIC
48,601 POSTS

Scan for codes and check fuel pressure first auto parts rent the gauge. It sounds like a pump problem but until you check you have no idea. Then clean throttle plate with choke cleaner on both sides and IAC hole. The noise may be a shield hitting or something like that, but we cannot hear that so only a guess on my part. If it continues after doing what is said on this reply definitely have a professional look at it he can do a more thorough scan on it.

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Monday, March 13th, 2017 AT 7:17 AM

RENEE L

ADMIN
1,260 POSTS

Hi KHEWLETT511,

If you decide you would like to conduct the scan yourself here is a link to an article that features written step by step instructions and pictures explaining how to do the can yourself. Also, I have included a link to our YouTube channel with a how to video on code scanning.

This is applicable even if your check engine light is not on.

Most scanners are inexpensive to purchase, you can purchase one online from sites like Amazon.com

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

Once you have the codes please get back to us so that we can further assist you. We are always happy to help.

Thank you for visiting 2CarPros.com.

Kindest regards,

Renee
Admin

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Monday, March 13th, 2017 AT 9:45 AM

KHEWLETT511

MEMBER
5 POSTS

Here were all the codes that I got when I scanned it.
P0153
P0171
P0174
P0455
P1131
P1151

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Monday, March 13th, 2017 AT 2:38 PM

HMAC300

MECHANIC
48,601 POSTS

The 171 and 174 are lean codes so this can very possibly be a pump problem 153 is slow response which can also be effected by low fuel pump pressure.455 is an evaporator purge leak which should be smoke tested by a mechanic sometimes it is a solenoid on evap which is by the gas tank along frame 1131 and 51 are both O2 sensors indicating rich which on fuel pressure may be the regulator so a few of these codes may be checked by fuel pressure. In picture it shows area to check so it can be a vacuum leak like the evap canister and or broken hoses. Also check all engine grommets and air duct to throttle body to make sure it has no holes/disconnected. See picture. Also, if you have not changed oil and drive short distances all the time like under ten miles each way that can do it as well. See picture.

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