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Engine Revving

Tiny
WHITETAILHUNTER
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 78,000 MILES
Sometimes in a pull the explorer's engine will rev up and the rpms will rise up almost like the transmission will not gear up or down. I have problems now with a leaking raditor and am planing on replacing it as soon as I get the money. Could this problem with the engine have something to do with the raditor or possibly the transmission or the throttle postioning sensor?
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Thursday, June 24th, 2010 AT 6:28 PM

37 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,740 POSTS
Does it seem like the transmission is slipping?
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Friday, June 25th, 2010 AT 12:05 AM
Tiny
WHITETAILHUNTER
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When it does this it acts as though it dosen't have any power. It slipped once on me while I was driving up Lookout Mountain but other than that one time no.
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Friday, June 25th, 2010 AT 12:28 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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This is a tough one because I don't have too much to go on. A bad throttle position sensor will cause the engine to rev up and down, but usually when the engine is under a load, you don't feel it.

As far as the transmission, is the fluid clean and full?

Finally, I have to honestly say I don't believe it has anything to do with the radiator unless it is overheating or leaking ATF from the cooling lines to the radiator.

Has the check engine light ever come on?
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Friday, June 25th, 2010 AT 12:43 AM
Tiny
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The check engine light came on once when the vehicle overheated. As I stated before the radiator has a leak and all the antifreeze leaked out and it overheated with my wife. She stopped as soon as the light came on and turned off the engine and waited until help arrived. We did not have problems with the engine revving until after the radiator began to leak.
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Friday, June 25th, 2010 AT 12:57 AM
Tiny
LINEARTISTA
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  • 3 POSTS
  • 2006 FORD EXPLORER
  • 75,000 MILES
2006 Ford Explorer ( 75k miles) started to have unusual rpm increases while accelerating (both initial and maintaing speed). Every now and the then the temp gauge will go all the way up and the warning light comes on - and then quickly goes back to normal. This usually happens with the rpms go up to 3 for about minute. What are the possible causes of this behavior?
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Saturday, November 9th, 2019 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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The RPM issue can be a few things. Check to make sure there are no vacuum leaks. Also, check the throttle position sensor. If the check engine light is on, have the computer scanned for trouble codes. Most parts stores will do it for free.

As far as the temp, make sure the coolant if full. If it is, check the thermostat and cooling system for restrictions.
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Saturday, November 9th, 2019 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LINEARTISTA
  • MEMBER
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Thank you! There are no warning lights at all. There are no warning lights on my dashboard whatsoever. Had a throttle body cleaning (in addition to oil change, power steering exchange, fuel system service) today. They were going to do a transmission check, but mine is sealed so they couldn't get to it. The 18 point service check list from Mobil Express shows everything is good.
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Saturday, November 9th, 2019 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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The transmission is sealed, but there is a check point on the side to make sure the fluid is full and clean. They should have checked that.

As far as the engine temp, do you think it is actually getting that hot or do you feel there is an electrical issue?
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Saturday, November 9th, 2019 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LINEARTISTA
  • MEMBER
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I do not think it is actually getting hot. While the work done yesterday appears to have helped a little, it is still doing it. My mpg is usually around 17 and now it is at 15.8. This morning, the check tire pressure light came on for 5 mins and then went off. Just had them checked yesterday and they were fine. I am going to take it to Firestone today with a print out of this message string. I truly appreciate your help!
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Saturday, November 9th, 2019 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASHLEYOF4
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  • 1 POST
  • 2006 FORD EXPLORER
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 96,000 MILES
My SUV has a mind of its own in the last three moths my car has done this now three times it revs and rpm goes up when at a stop light or stopping when holding brake the car jumps forward like it wants to take off. Also, has done it on the highway rpm will go up when I am on sixty four just cruising. Please help, I have four little ones in the car all the time, thank you
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Saturday, November 9th, 2019 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
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Try cleaning throttle plate on both sides and IAC hole with choke cleaner no need to remove throttle body. Then check for either a leaking vacuum brake booster or check valve if it continues. If you apply the brakes while in park you may hear a hissing sound inside car if you do then have a mechanic check it as booster is bad.
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Saturday, November 9th, 2019 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TOHRIE
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  • 2 POSTS
  • 2004 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 92,500 MILES
The CEL has not came on once but for about 2 weeks when driving the rpm needle will go from 3 back to its normal place. The mechanics cannot help me because my CEL has not come on yet. I had a major tune up about 5 months ago which included spark plugs and wires, pcv valve, fuel and air filter. I just passed emissions inspection exactly 1 month ago. Need help with what is going on with this SUV.
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Saturday, November 9th, 2019 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Is the engine reving or is the tach just jumping?
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Saturday, November 9th, 2019 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TOHRIE
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
The tach is jumping after the car chages gears.
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Saturday, November 9th, 2019 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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From my experience, the light won't come on. Every one that I have seen have had the same problem, the tach itself was bad.
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Saturday, November 9th, 2019 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TINYLOVE
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  • 2003 FORD EXPLORER
2003 Ford Explorer Four Wheel Drive Automatic

My truck just started the other day dying when I slow down to come to a stop, not every time but a majority of the time. Throw it in neutral and she restarts with no problem however the oil pressure and charging system lights will come on when she does die. If I have her in park, neutral, or drive with brake applied she starts revving between 400 and 1100 rpms. If I keep her in neutral when at a stop I can keep it from dying. We had the fuel filter replace and fuel system flushed and they said nothing was wrong. Well something is wrong, please help
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Saturday, November 9th, 2019 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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It sounds like a bad idle air control valve. Has the check engine light come on? Have you checked for vacuum leaks, EGR?
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Saturday, November 9th, 2019 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TINYLOVE
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I had it checked for vacuum leaks and there isn't any. Don't know what EGR is. No check engine light, had codes check and it hasn't thrown any codes. Been told by a few people that it could be that damn idle air thing. This trucks been in the shop at least 3 times since I have owned it for one thing or another.
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Saturday, November 9th, 2019 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FICKLEFLASH
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2000 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 232,200 MILES
While driving- rpms will just drop & car will die. No "Check Engine "light comes on. No warning. Will put in neutral and start up again, sometimes right away, sometimes after 3-4 tries. If sit for awhile, will go again for some miles before stopping again. Had fuel pump/fuel filter replaced, idle solinoid cleaned, a/c temp sensor replaced. THIS ONLY HAPPENS WHEN OUTSIDE TEMPS ARE 75 DEGREES AND UP. As long as it's cool outside, no problem. While driving one hot day, started acting up, dying, had to keep foot on gas/brake to keep moving, ran into rain, cooled off, car started running fine again! Ford dealer ran complete diagnostic, could find nothing. Said it'll have to be acting up to locate problem as no "Check Engine" light comes on. Help, Help, Help
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Saturday, November 9th, 2019 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
  • MECHANIC
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Intermittants can be tough. I would focus on the ignition system first. Using a cold damp towel (Keep one in the fridge) you can cool off components to bring down their temperature and hopefully cause the no start.

I would start with it on the ignition switch when the no start is happening. I am suspecting the tranciever ring around the ignition lock. It should set anti-theft codes, but this will not affect the check engine light.

IF you have tilt steering, try moving the column up and down to see if it starts when the no start is present.
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Saturday, November 9th, 2019 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)

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