Engine noise?

Check the drive belts. Ensure the A/C compressor bearing is not seized resulting in the noise and burning rubber.

when i take my vehicle to a mechanic having them check the drive belts and the a/c compressor bearing.

what do you mean by a/c compressor bearing is not seized?

The A/C compressor pulley would be turning when engine is turning. When it is bad, it can seize (jammed)or rattle causing the noise.
Remove the serpentine belt and check that the A/C clutch hub is spinning freely, check the condition of the belt, check tensioner pulley & bearing and the idler pulley bearings are not locking up.

I was hearing clunking noises in the engine. I took suv to mechanic. They changed the transmission fluid & filter. The next day I pulled up to a stop sign. At my turn to cross I pushed the gas & nothing happened. I put the brake back on & a few seconds later I heard & felt it shift into gear. Took suv back to mechanic. They checked oil level which was fine. They drained the oil & took off the bottom pan to check out things & run diagnostics. They told me it is either the forward drum or the overdrive sprag, but wouldn't know for sure until the took it all apart. I called around to a regular transmission shop to ask questions. One shop told me they would not replace either w/out also replacing the converter. Does this diagnostic sound correct? Is it necessary to also replace the converter? What should be the price range of this repair? Can I drive until it is repaird?

It sounds possible. I would also recommend replacing the converter. As far as a price, it is hard to say without knowing what is wrong. A full rebuild is around 2K.

Can I drive it for a day or 2 until I get it fixed without causing damage??

That is something I can't answer. I'm not sure what the problem is. I do have a question. You said the noise was from the engine. Why did they service the transmission? Also, did the noise go away when they serviced the trans?

The noise sounded like it was coming from that area. At least the front 1/2 of the vehicle. The serviced the transmission because they said they seen a leak & it was low even though I said there were no drip spots in my driveway. I drove it home without hearing it but I described what happened the next morning. When it did engage into drive I drove onto work & felt it lag slightly a couple of times, but the noise went away.

I can't think of anything in the transmission that would make that noise and be fixed by servicing the transmission.

ok thank you, so it sounds like I have a bigger problem than the oil level. So can I safely drive it for a few days before I get it repaired? They mechanic has me believing I'll do more damage and possibly need a complete transmission repair if I drive it at all.

I hate to say it, but I would suggest having the problem repaired before driving it. It can do more damage.

Ok thank you.

Sorry for the bad news. I hope I helped.

Joe

Noises problem
2003 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic 134k miles

Looking to purchase a 03 explorer eddie bauer. However upon test driving there is a slight noise from the bottom of the engine, while the car is warming up.

As far as driving it it is a nice smooth ride. Just whenever you start the car up i notice the noise while the car is warming up for a while. What could the issue be? And is it a costly fix?

Actually, if you hear it when it is cold and it is a knocking sound, chances are the noise is from a rod bearing or main bearing. WHen steel gets hot, it expands. THerefore, the sound will go away when it gets hot. THe bottom line is this. If you purchase it, the car may run like that for another 100K or the engine could go bad in a hundred miles. If it throws a rod or main bearing, you would be better off replacing the engine which can get costly.

If you have other questions, let me know.

Joe

My 2003 Explorer makes a roaring/whirring sound starting around 40mph, gets pretty loud between 60 & 70 mph, but makes less noise above 70mph. The sound increases as I turn the steering wheel to the left & decreases when turned to the right. Any idea what's wrong? Thanks.

You need nee hub bearings at the wheels.

Had front brakes done a week ago and was told that wheel bearings are fine. i also know that it has nothing to do with the 4wheel drive.

Agree with merlin sounds like a hub assembly (wheel bearing unit)left one or drivers side. when you turn left you put a load on it making more noise when you turn right you unload it making less noise. It may feel ok and not make noise when turned by hand doesnt mean it is good however.

Just purchased used from Carmax. We do not have a garage so the car is exposed to outdoor elements. We have had alot of rain. Since then when I start the car the engine sounds as if I have a bird chirping away in it. Do you have any suggestions of what this could be? Also, just read on-line of transmission problems in the 2002 Explorer. I am officially afraid I have made a poor used car purchase and instead of taking it back for service I should just give it back to them. Any comments? However, researching used vehichles on-line can't seem to find one that hasn't had transmission problems! ! ?? Help - mother needing reliable vehicle on a budget !!!

Try this step.
Spray a little D40 to the tension arm, the one that adjusts the belt. If the problem went away, you need to replace that tension arm. If it still has the same problem, you have something wrong with the engine. I don't think the transmission has the problem.
I remember my car had a loud chirp when it was 45k. I noticed the chirp was from the tension.
Tony

Last week, my 5.0 Explorer began making a screeching noise. I noticed that it only occurred between 2800-3200rpms. It doesn't matter if I'm on the road or sitting still, in drive, in park, in neutral, etc. If I stay above or below that RPM range, no screeching sound can be heard. The sound can clearly be heard in the video at the bottom of this post.

*NOTE* - The sound is still present with the serpentine belt removed, so it is not accessory related.

http://s121.photobucket.com/albums/o210/jlatha86/?action=view¤t=MOV00734.flv

After taking a closer look under the engine bay while the engine was running, I decided the noise was coming from the front side of the engine and it sounded like it was under the intake or possibly behind the timing cover. I don't have an automotive stethoscope, but from my younger days, I can remember my grandfather troubleshooting with a stick. I found a suitable "tool" and began listening and feeling different areas of the engine. When I touched the top of the camshaft sensor, I could immediately feel the vibration much stronger than anywhere else. When the screech occurred, I would compare the feeling to that of hitting a solid object with an aluminum baseball bat... it made sharp vibration. With that being said, I believe the culprit is the camshaft synchronizer (aka crankshaft angle sensor depending on where you buy the part). After doing a lot of online research, I've determined that Dorman products should be avoided at all costs due to inferior build quality. A1 Cardone seems to make acceptable remanufactured units, but I decided to go with a genuine Motorcraft part. It will probably take a couple of hours to swap because the spark plugs need to be pulled to ensure the #1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke. If any of you have changed plugs on a 5.0 Explorer, you already know how time consuming that job can be by itself. If anyone finds this thread in the future and you're not mechanically inclined, this is definitely a job for a mechanic. Proper installation of this part is vital to both the firing order and your oil supply.

I just wanted to followup. I replaced my camshaft synchronizer last Wednesday, December 9th, and everything has been functioning flawlessly. Here's a short video of the sound the synchronizer was making once it was out of the vehicle. As you can hear, it is quite harsh. I've found a few videos on YouTube of other bad synchronizers, but they sounded much more birdlike.

loud metal on metal noise for a few seconds after starting.

Hi:
Is the sound from the engine itself or could it be from a belt driven component?

No, the noise is definetly comming from the engine. Sounds like the lifters or push rods running with no oil. But the noise goes away after a few seconds as if oil has reached the source of the noise.

Hi:
What weight oil do you have in the vehicle and what temps do you live in? Also, what brand of oil filter do you have? Some have an anti flow back valve that doesn't allow oil to drain out of the filter. If you have one that doesn't have the valve, it could starve the engine for a few seconds.

When the engine is running, does it keep good oil pressure?

Joe

hi
I use 5w30 and a Fram oil filter. As far as temp, its funny you ask because it only happens when its cold outside (40 or so and under). I live in Co.
Thanks

Well, the 5w30 is what you should be using, and a fram filter should be fine. The cold weather does have an affect on the oil. The colder it gets, the heavier the oil is at start-up. However, at 40 degrees, 5w30 shouldn't lead to the described problem. For the heck of it, try a motorcraft filter next time.

Keep an eye on the oil pressure to make sure it doesn't get too low. Your oil pump may be starting to develope a problem, but it's too early to tell.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Joe

OK, thank you very much Joe. You have been very helpfull!


Rod