check engine light came on?

You need to have the computer scanned for trouble codes. Chances are the problem lies in the EVAP system if there hasn't been a change in the performance.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Let me know what you find.

NOTE: If it is EVAP related, they will try to sell you a fuel cap. Let me know what the code is before you get one. 99% of the time the fuel cap isn't bad.

Joe

Thanks for your reply. Took it to Autozone and Advance auto parts and they scanned and it and one said that it was due to ethanol fuel and the other said I needed new spark plugs. So I decided to take it to where I knew I could get a definite answer and that being Saab Automotive(excellent service there) and they scanned and found out that it was the mas air flow module (which a Ford dealership confirmed), so I got one changed it out and all seems to be well now. Oddly enough once I changed it out ,the "check engine light" went off by itself. All in all it was a lot of running around to get it done when I should have just gone to Saab Automotive in Birmingham,Al., to begin with. If it ain't broke ,they won't fix it.
Anyway , thanks for your help and reply.

Hay, I'm glad you got it fixed. Let us know if you have questions in the future, and thanks for using 2carpros.com.

Have a good Easter,
Joe

Good morning, I was writing inreference to the check engine light on my truck. I have heard that i can run into alot of unecessary cost by getting this checked, plus i have heard that i am getting alot of horrible gas mileage, i guess my question is, what is the best route to fix this problem without paying an arm and a leg? Thank you

There are parts stores that can check the codes in the computer for free. Or sometimes, you can pay a small fee to have a professional technician scan it. At any rate, there are about 1400 codes that can produce a check engine light. the best bet is to get the codes and post back. We can go from there, but without knowing what is wrong it is hard to make a reasonable suggestion. Hope to hear back from you.
Dave

My check engine light has come on, what may be the problem?

A check engine light usually indicates a problem with a sensor or an electrical component. It could even come on if the gas cap is left loose. What I recommend it to take the vehicle to a nationally recognized parts store and have them scan the computer for codes. Most will do it for free, so there will be no money out of pocket. The code they find will identify where the problem is coming from.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

My vehicle started actine weird after i got the booster replaced. first the fuel cap light came on then the engine light. i replace the fuel cap but it came back on. Then i took it to autozone to get the engine light check and it indicate that it has a large gas pressure leak. They cant tell what its causing this. Now the RPM won't go over 3. my truck can still run as long it does not hit 3. There certain days the engine light and fuel light just turn off for a day and then turn back on. I also got the spark plugs and wire changed but it made no difference. Please help I am so lost and i need to guidence into what i need to do next.

First thing to do is return to the shop that did the booster and ask them to recheck their work. There may be a vacuum leak affecting the runnilbility.

May need to have the evap system smoked for a leak for the CEL problem. If your in a northern state or where salt is present, the fuel filler nek may be leaking.

Just had the engine changed. As far as i can remember the "check engine" light worked before it was changed, but not a 100% sure, maybe 95%.
Now it doesn't seem to come on at all. When I went to take the emmisions test the tester told me to turn the key so he could see the "check engine" light flash. It didn't, it did give him and error code when he read the computer (something about a sensor was riegistering a little rich). I immediately took it to a mechanic, his scanners could not read the computer, he got nothing. I took it to another mechanic, same thing. I took it back to emmisions after one other mechanic looked at it, it registerd "EVAP" but gave not code, the tester said it should have.

I took it back to the outfit who put the (used) engine in. He swore up and down the eingine had nothing to do with it and their in no way connected. I was wondering if they could be connected. Say maybe if it was a different make or year engine he replaced it with. Not sure wihat they replaced it with but miy original engine was a (4.0 liter OHV). If replacing the engine could not cause it then what could cause it? And is it something that can be fixed? I'm stuck with a car that I can't get plates for.

Thank you and Happy Holidays.

Take it to the dealer or another mechanic to find out why it wont scan, bad ground, broken fuse, not connected properly, burned out bulb etc. You will need proof why it is not working so you can take it back to the outfitter or have it fixed so the computer can work properly.

When first starting up and driving for the first two miles, the check gauge light is on , and goes off right at the two mile mark, and stays off . then the next morning this happens again, I was told this is normal. As long as the vehicle is warmed up , it stays off.

It is not normal for the Check Engine Light to stay on for that duration of time and then go off. It should stay on for about 10 seconds or less. The OBD-II system is sensing that something is not working properly. It does not sound like it is a major problem and a big expense but something is intermittently malfunctioning. If you have a Advance Auto Parts they can connect an "ACTRON" code scanner which looks like this:

to your Explorer "Free of Charge" and that will display an OBD-II code indicating exactly what the problem is. Good Luck; Rick

It is not the check engine light,, it is the check Guage light . thanks,

OOppppssss.... Sorry about that.
On the Check Gauge light, it is not normal the the gauge to stay on for that duration of time.

When your Explorer first starts up take a "quick" look at the "Oil Pressure" gauge, The sender unit on Explorers and Mountaineers with the 5.0L engine are very well known to fail. Sometimes the gauge will be erratic and the pointer will swing from (L)ow to (H)igh making a clicking like sound.

If it is not your oil pressure gauge check the fuel, then the temp and finally the battery gauge.

On my 1999 Mountaineer with 5.0L engine my check gauge light stays on too and I just about know when it will go off and my oil pressure gauge will start functioning.
I watched it one day and as soon as I came to a certain marker on the highway the light would go out and the gauge would function normally.
Day after day after day.....

Good luck;
Rick

I have a perpetual Check Engine Light and Rough Idle when Cold. What is the most likely cause/

Hi:
If the check engine light is on, there is a trouble code set in the computer that should identify the problem. Many nationally recognized parts stores will scan it for free, so I recommend having it scanned first. Chances are there is a vacuum leak or a problem with the temp sensor sending a bad reading to the computer. Does the vehicle seem to be running rich?

Joe

We have a 2000 Ford Explorer with the check engine light on , starts hard cold and idles rough. We have paid lots of money to different shops and no one can solve the problem. Please help!!

If you have an Advance Auto Parts near you. Free of charge they will plug in a OBD-II (On Board Diagnostics) scanner into a special receptacle at the bottom of your dash. The OBD-II scanner looks like this:

The scanner is displaying code P0442. The small text underneath displays: Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (small leak). The scanner will "hopefully" display a 4 digit code beginning with a "P" on your vehicle All you will have to do is repair that specific problem referring to the information displayed on the scanner. If the "clowns" at the shop did not fix the problem, you should not have been charged. All they needed to do is run an OBD-II diagnostic scan. They "have" or "should have" something with more complex diagnostic capabilities than the one pictured. Get back to me if you need more help or have more questions. Good Luck; Rick

2000 ford explorer xlt 5.0 ive tried the 2 working key method with no luck. Can you tell me what kind of scan tool I can use to acess the pats system to enable spare key programming

Programmming of key does not require any scan tools.

Is your fob the one shown in diagram and is the procedure you have tried the one in chart?

No where in my questiom did I ask about fobs im talking about transpoonder key programming

Sorry, my bad for misinterpreting your question.

New Generation Star (NGS) tester and Ford Service Function (FSF) card must be used if the two programmed key method does not work.

My father in-law had a new radiator installed, when he brough it home the check engine light came on. I pluged in my code reader & the codes are p0171 & p0174 ( bank 1 & 2 too lean). I tried to find a vacuum leak but was able to find it. Is there something else I should be looking for?

The lean code usually is exactly what you mentioned, a vacuum issue. I would continue checking that. Also, make sure the O2 sensors are connected and the coolant temp sensors are connected.

Let me know what you find.