Transmission not engaging?

This light also doubles as the Malfunction Indicator Light for the transmission. Have the system scanned for codes. There is a good possibility that you just have a sensor failing. Are there any other symptoms? Like soeedometer jumping or overall late shifting? Are tachometer indications normal for load/speed? These guide can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/automatic-transmission-problems

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down these guides and report back.

Hello fellows, My '95 Explorer, with its rebuilt auto' tranny will not go into overdrive. The O/D light starts flashing when it is time to shift but doesn't make an attempt. It has no blown fuses, good wiring, etc. Any ideas or maybe a thing or two to check before I pull the pan off?

[quote:7af7cbb38c="mrooster68"]Transmission problem
1995 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 211000 miles

Hello fellows, My '95 Explorer, with its rebuilt auto' tranny will not go into overdrive. The O/D light starts flashing when it is time to shift but doesn't make an attempt. It has no blown fuses, good wiring, etc. Any ideas or maybe a thing or two to check before I pull the pan off?[/quote:7af7cbb38c]

Could be a shift solenoid. If you can borrow a breakout box or get a wiring diagram, you can test the solenoids from the outside.

Transmission problem
1992 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic

My truck was not going into gear first thing in morning. started getting worse and then acted like it wasnt going in overdrive. got used tranny and put in it did the same thing. replace valve body. fixed that problem and know it stopped pulling 3 days ago.
what is up with this. this used tranny was rebuild 6 months ago.

Not all rebuilt transmissions are created equal. Especially after 6 months of service and a trip through a salvage yard.

From the sound of things, you have another failed transmission on your hands. This may have been caused by debris in the cooler lines. Is important to flush out the cooler lines when replacing a failed transmission. Material given off by failing components can lodge in the trans cooler, and return to a replacement transmission and cause the replacement to fail. Worse yey, if the cooler is blocked or restricted, a replacement transmission will have a short life.

I have rebuilt many of these units, and have had great success, including my own. Mine now has been working perfectly for 5 years since rebuild.

Unfortunately, some rebuilders will overlook some of the really important finer points of the transmission. One of the things that causes early failure is rear unit end play. The direct clutch runs on two delicate rubber seals. Excessive end play will destroy these seals in short order because the direct clutch drum will not run true, and can wobble. Clutch pack clearances are also important. Too loose, and they will jerk on engagement. Too tight, and they will drag and cause early failure.

My best suggestion is to make sure that the cooler is clear, the converter is clean, and start again with a rebuilt unit.

Transmission problem
1992 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic

When the snow fell, placed transmission in 4wd and drove about 30 mph for about ten miles when suddenly the transmission became disengaged. Tried turning off 4wd and no result. Tried reverse, no result. Is the transmission controlled electronically??

Have you had any trouble with the transmission in the past? Is the fluid full and clean? The reason I ask is this. Yes parts of the transmission is electrically controled, but there usually a build up to this type of problem. My concern is that the transfer case jumpped into neutral and not the transmission. The 4wd actuators on these vehicles have a history. Have you tried changing it into 4lo, 2hi...?

Let me know.

:cry: Ok... I just purchased a 1991 Ford Explorer with 174,000 miles on it. New engine has 35,000 miles on it. Just bought it last night, and ran fine during the test drive. Today, I was in a parking lot, and I put it in drive, and it just sat there, wouldn't move forward for approximately 30 seconds. Then it kicked into gear and went. Then when I got home, let it sit for awhile, went back out to leave, car was pointing uphill, it again wouldn't move. Not quite sure if tires were moving, but smoke was coming up from somewhere under the car passenger side rear. It felt as if I were on ice and couldn't get the car to move. Took over a minute of me giving it gas to kick it into gear. I am afraid to drive it now, and have no idea what the deal is. I am assuming tranny, but why would it have ran fine during test drive and start the problem now?

Just wanted to add that the car goes perfectly fine in reverse, absolutely no problem with that.

Ok...more info...Truck won't move at all when I have the gear on the 2. I have P R N O D 2 1. So when it is in 2 I can't get it to move at all. Also a loud clunking noise is coming from somewhere, and a large squealing noise is coming from UNDER the truck, not under the hood. I hope somebody out there replies, I feel like I am talking to myself.

PS...NONE of these problems happened during my test drive of the vehicle last night!!!! Am I just plain screwed? :shock:

First thing i would do is check the transmission fluide while in Idle and see if flluid level is right and if it is then if the tranmission fluid has a burnt smell to it you might need to have it serviced But if it was me and just getting it last night i would see if they would pay to have it fixed or take it back. You may get lucky and only have to replace the transmission filter kit and new fluid because if it is dirty it will cause your transmission to stick.

Ok...Transmission fluid is at the right level, and has no smell to it. It is the right color, not black. I called the guy who sold it to me, talked to his wife who claims they never had a problem like this, and said the husband would call me back, and of course, no reply yet. He was supposed to call last night. I am hoping that it is something minor...somebody told me it may be a U-Joint? I am a female, and don't know these mechanical terms. I have an appointment Monday AM....I had it at Monroe, before this problem, and the only problem they detected were shocks. Of course, I highly doubt they check the transmission. It was just a routine oil change and I asked them to inspect the brakes. So I guess I will ask the garage to check transmission fluid and filter and pray that it works. Thanks for your post above.

I'd say if the transmission fluid is ok, check to see if your shift cable is tight. If not, it may not be engaging the transmission like it should.

Took it to a transmission place today, was told it could be the pistons...said not to worry about it, and to purchase Lukas fluid to put in. Will try this tomorrow. Anyone know about this Lukas fluid?

Lucas is the best of the best.

:evil: So I put the Lucas Fluid in, NOW the vehicle won't move at all!! Not at all in drive. I am going to have to have it towed to the garage. I am completely FUMING...Livid..Dude won't return my phone calls from who I purchased it off of. It is driving me nuts....I wish the garage was open tomorrow so I can figure out what the deal is. :x

How much did you put in?

[quote:ffbf87e4de="catch_15"]How much did you put in?[/quote:ffbf87e4de]

I put the whole bottle in. The transmission shop man told me to put a whole bottle in and that it is impossible to overfill it with one bottle. The vehicle is going forward now, will wait and see what tomorrow brings. !

It is at the garage now. Here is the list of items of what the problem is:

E-Brake is hung up, needs all new cables
Rear Brakes are down to the drums
4 Calipers
4 Shocks
Sway Bar
Bushings

I am assuming the reason it isn't going forward is the Emergency Brake is engaging, and is stopping the vehicle from moving.

Garage gave me an estimate of $1100.00 Does this sound right?

If the brake is hung up, it probably will need new cables. And if your brakes are bad, front and rear service shouldn't be more than $200. If I were you, I wouldn't get a new swaybar and bushings unless the car is handling extrememly poorly. Also, if the ride is very rough depending on how many miles the car has, the shocks may need replaced. But with the suspension setup that Ford uses, none of these should be big jobs and $1100 sounds very pricey for that work. I'd get a couple estimates somewhere else.

1997 Ford Explorer Sport. Its an automatic but Going from any gear upward, car hesitates, rpms rise like im in neutral and then finally kicks into gear. I have slight oil leak but have no idea how that would affect anything unless there is oil on the transmission. Please Help.

Check trans fluid level at dipstick with it running in park.

Get codes checked for any MLP or gear selector codes...
have had MLP sensors make ford autos go into neutral for 3-4 seconds between shifts....Scary....
MLP sensor is on side of tranny and easy to replace and less than 90.00 from dealer I believe....Can be cheaper elsewhere....Salvage yard should have a good one pretty cheap...