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My engine stalls while driving?

Tiny
ROB2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 258 POSTS
First, I would see if it pulls and codes. And if it does go from there.
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:59 AM (Merged)
Tiny
EMELIUS
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
This happens to my explorer, and I haven't fixed it yet, but I have a good intuition after months of research that its probably the crank shaft sensor
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:59 AM (Merged)
Tiny
AHALTE
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1993 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 12,500 MILES
Problem started while I was on the highway. I was going about 55mph and when I pushed down on the gas pedal, nothing would happen. Soon the check-engine light comes on and the truck would stop. I would set in park for about 5 minutes and then it would go again. Each time this happened (every day) the distance it would go got shorter and shorter with the gas pedal not reacting when depressed. Now the entire truck shakes during idle and shuts off after 5 minutes. I have replaced the 02 sensors, mass air flow sensor, fuel filter, fuel pump, cleaned intake manifold, and still at a loss. Scanner shows low voltage to mass air flow sensor, but not sure if just needs code cleared. At a loss of what could be the problem.
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 12:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
Check intake gasket and timing
I would recheck the fuel pressure too
disconnect MAF sensor start and check if any improvement
clear codes and recheck if you have codes let me know what do u have for codes
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 12:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NTHAYER
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1993 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 168,000 MILES
I have a 1993 ford explorer and there are times when I am driving that it seems as though no gas is reaching the engine to make it run and it will stall out. We took it to a mechanic and they said it was a fuel clamp but it hasn't stopped stalling even after they looked at it. We are gonig to try dry gas but we dont think that that is the problem. Does anyone know what the problem is and how to fix it?
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 12:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Has the check engine light come on? Also, has the fuel filter been replaced? Finally, here is a how to for checking fuel pump pressure. I need you to check it and let me know what you find. Also, does the car start right back up when it dies?

Let me know:

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_check_fuel_pressure.htm

Joe
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+1
Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 12:01 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TRACEMINE2
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
I have a 1994 Ford Explorer that cranks right up runs good when it idles. I go a mile down the road it will stall, and drop down to about 25 or 30mph, then it like it starts running good and I might make it another 2 or 3 miles down the road and it does the same thing, I just pump the foot petal, and after it drops down to the 24 or 30 mphs it will start back and in about a 10 mile run it will do it at least three times. I can stop at the store put in new gas, and sometimes add fuel cleaner to the gas and I will make it 10 miles or so and it will start doing it again. The check engine light is on but its been on sense the day I bought it, and no body has been able to get it to stay off. Its a 1994 Ford Explorer I think my husband said a 4.0 motor
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 12:01 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TOMFORSTER
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
  • 1993 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 85,000 MILES
I was driving on the freeway and I had my cruise control on it went off by itself so I put it back on and then the check engine light went on and stalled and it will not start anymore. Starting fluid wont work, Its getting fuel so im not sure what to try or replace?
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 12:01 PM (Merged)
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,711 POSTS
Hello,

Thank You for the Donation....

Since engine light came on there is most likely a code set. You will need to pull codes...

Here's How.....

To extract DTCs from the computer for diagnostic purposes, the Self Test connector is used. It is located in engine compartment on drivers side on fender well.

1.Start engine and bring to normal operating temperature. If engine will not start or stalls after starting, proceed with next step.
2.Turn the key "OFF", then wait ten seconds.
3.Activate the self test by grounding the Self-Test Input (STI) connector.
4.Turn the ignition key "ON". Engine Light will Flash codes.
5.Record all codes received.
6.Turn ignition "OFF".


https://www.2carpros.com/images/question_images/199407/original.jpg



The following is how to read flashes...

Codes will be 2 digits.....

Flash short pause flash long pause = code 11

flash short pause flash flash would = code 12

flash flash short pause flash would = 21

and so on.

Post codes back here in forum.....
Image (Click to make bigger)
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 12:01 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TOMFORSTER
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
The OBD reader said 542 Fuel pump circuit
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 12:01 PM (Merged)
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,711 POSTS
Ok, have you check to see if you are geting spark at the plugs? If so and you are getting spark what color? It should be a Bright Bluish/White. If Orange it is weak and could be the Coil Pack.

Also try disconnecting the MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor and try starting.

You say you are getting fuel did you check the fuel pressure. If not you may not have enough fuel pressure and testing the pressure will help determine if it is the fuel pump or the regulator.

.
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 12:01 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TOMFORSTER
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
I already replaced the coil pack so I dont think its that, I tested the fuel pressure and when its cranking (cause it wont start up to check running pressure) I have 40 psi of pressure, I tried unplugging the MAF sensor and it still wouldnt start.

So is it the fuel pressure regulator or the pump? Possibly something else?
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 12:01 PM (Merged)
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,711 POSTS
The code indicates a bad ground somewhere between the PCM and the Engine. So you will need to check the grounds.

.
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 12:01 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TOMFORSTER
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Where in the truck should I start to look for the ground? And how would it be the ground? It cranks but doesnt start, Im just curious how.

Thank you for your help
Tom
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 12:01 PM (Merged)
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,711 POSTS
Ooops sorry, you need to check the grounds wires coming out of the PCM which is located behind passenger side of dash near kick panel.

Everything that requires power must have an appropriate ground. All electrical components need power, and the power must make it back to ground. It must be a complete circuit. That is the reason it is called a circuit.

.
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 12:01 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TOMFORSTER
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
How do I check all of the wires? There's a ton of them, is there anything else it could be besides a ground?
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 12:01 PM (Merged)
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,711 POSTS
Ok, since the code you posted is 542 and the Code Def is Fuel Pump Circuit Open - PCM to Motor Ground, that indicates a ground problem. It could also be a Bad PCM.

There are only a few wire to check and since it is in the Fuel Curcuit through the PCM all you should have to check is the PCM Case Ground and the FPM Ground.

Look at the diagram for you engine size.

Remove the Harness to the PCM Find the Color Coded wire for the PCM Ground #20 in both Diagrams. Find grounding point and use Ohm Meter to test.

Then look for the FPM #8 in both diagrams and they are both the same color code Dark Green with Yellow Stripe. Use same proceedure as above to test.

.
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 12:01 PM (Merged)
Tiny
D. DAVIS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1993 FORD EXPLORER
Engine Performance problem
1993 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

Engine starts fine and sounds fine but after driving about 3 or 4 miles the engine spits and sputters and loses all power to move forward after stopping at a red light. Then the engine light comes on and the engine dies.I wait about 60 seconds and start the engine back up and go on for another 3 or4 miles til the same thing happens. Someone told me the fuel pump was going bad. So I changed it, twice, and the fuel filter. Still had same problem. Took it to a repair shop and the guy says he is 90% sure that the cat converter was bad. Took it to the muffler shop and had them put on a new cat, muffler and tail pipe. On the way home the engine did the same crap. Also replaced plugs and plug wires. Got a repair manual and there is no help in it for me. Got any idea what might be the problem. Broke and POed.
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 12:01 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KERENSELF
  • MEMBER
  • 54 POSTS
Well, my first question would be is the check/service engine light on? Although the OBD1 computer on 1995 and earlier models are not as sophisticated as the new ones, it could give you a good starting point. Most of your parts stores will read these codes for free.
If the light isn't on, it's going to be hard to diagnose without being able to duplicate the problem. Sounds like you're either losing fuel pressure or spark event and there are procedures to check fuel pressure regulator, ignition module, coil, etc. In any service manual like a Haynes or Chiltons, so I would get one if you haven't already.
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 12:01 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MIKILAN
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1994 FORD EXPLORER
  • 12,500 MILES
Greetings! I bought a '94 Ford XLT 4x4. It has 125,000 miles. Got on the freeway, accelerating normally, had a hard time pushing past 65. When I hit a slight decline, I got to about 76. But when going back uphill, I went back down to 65 and couldn't get past it no mater how much I pushed on the gas petal. When I pushed it all the way to the floor the RPMs went up to 3 then dropped under 2 and I started to slow down dramatically. Almost as if the engine turned off. I released the gas and coasted for about 5 seconds then eased the gas. I started to speed up but nothing past 60, until I started driving downhill at a slight decline.

What do you think the problem is, and what is causing it? Nice site :-)
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 12:03 PM (Merged)

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