Engine is sputtering when accelerating?

Hi:

Before considering a fuel problem, what size V8 is it and is the check engine light on? It sounds like the engine is misfiring?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

Joe

Has anyone "washed" your engine?
If it just shakes alot it's (probably) a COP (coil-on-plug) or spark plug failing.
If it FALLS FLAT -check fuel pressure - it's very easy - there's a shrader valve (like a tire valve) on the top of engine - just slip a guage under the wiper and go, being careful not to turn on the wiper if it's raining.
To check COP's (and other ignition/fuel checks) you'll need to have a scan tool that shows at least a code for what cylinder to check, or better yet that shows crank speed and tells which cylinder(s) not contributing in real time.
These are both common problems and is where I would start. (There are many more [less common] things that happen)
If you pull a COP out and the boot has a big crack - replace ALL the boots. (COP's are OK)
If pressure IS going away don't just replace the filter, replace the pump at this mileage if not been done before.

Hi:
You should be able to work them out without removing the fuel rails. I have the 5.4 and thought the same thing, but was able to do it.

Based on the description of the symptoms, there has been a lot of trouble with Ford V-8 truck engines popping out a spark plug, usually the rear one on the passenger side. There is supposed to be a repair kit for that but due to access problems, I think the cylinder head has to be removed to do that repair. The original ticking would have been the exhaust gases sneaking past the loose spark plug.

All right! One in a row. Happy to hear it's solved.

It could be a few things. First, has the check engine light come on?

Let me know.

Take to any parts store and they can ck. The codes for u and then u will know.

Get the code(s) from the Check Engine Light. If you don't have a scanner, you can try the larger franchise auto parts stores such as AutoZone or Pep Boys or Advance Auto Parts. They can scan your car for free. Don't fall into paying for gettiing a scanner hooked up. Shop around. There's plenty of places that'll do it for free.

Write down the code(s). The codes are very specific, so be sure to write each one down. Post the codes on the forum. Then you can proceed.

The code(s) may not be the absolute answer to your problem, but it'll point you in the right direction.

The only thing you can do to start is to have the diagnostic fault codes read and recorded. The people at most auto parts stores will do that for you for free. That's where the mechanic would start.

No. You haven't provided any useful information or test results to analyze. "Acceleration" can mean going from standing still to 15 mph or from 65 to 80 mph. To some people, "sputtering a little" means the vehicle barely runs without three passengers pushing it. Some people get excited over the tiniest thing we don't even notice.

The repair might very well be a do-it-yourselfer project, but first you have to know what's wrong. I can't tell that over a computer. I know a few people who are dangerous if they get close to a screwdriver. Other people make beginning mechanics look bad. I need to have an idea of what you can handle when working on vehicles with way too much unnecessary technology. I've had people get angry with me and call me every name in the book after I told them what needed to be done, then they attempted it themselves and damaged something expensive. I don't have a problem steering you in the right direction, but exactly what kind of answer are you expecting? You have an engine running problem and you didn't even bother to list which engine you have.

You can't call your doctor on the phone and say, "I'm in pain", and expect a diagnosis. You might have a hang nail, cut your foot off with a chainsaw, or you ex-girlfriend came back! At the very least, he's going to ask you a few questions to get started. Reading diagnostic fault codes is always the place to get started. Unfortunately, only Chrysler makes that a 30-second do-it-yourself project. For all other brands, you either need a code reader, a scanner, or there's some terminals to connect in the diagnostic plug. Connecting terminals went away with the new emissions systems on all '96 and newer vehicles, so unless you want to invest in a code reader, you need to go to an auto parts store.

You can find decent code readers on eBay for less than a hundred dollars. One diagnosis from that code reader will cost less than an hour of diagnostic time at a shop.

Not offended. I just love using my "I'm in pain, ... Why" line but I don't get the chance very often.