check engine light turns on after engine has warmed up, but turns off when accelerating and turns on again when braking

no, it is not time to replace the sensors unless you are rich. Pull the codes from the computer and let that help narrow down the direction needed to figure the problem out.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/ford-lincoln-mercury-obd1-1995-and-earlier-diagnostic-trouble-code-definition-and-retrieval

Please run down this guide and report back.

I tryed using the link you sent me to update my problem but it woulddn't work.

Here is my problem more clearly. I was referring to the starter solenoid when I should be referring to the relay that is mounted next to the battery. I forgot to watch how I removed the wires and now my system is not charging. I just replaced the starter and alternator and the gause is showing it is not charging.

The wires I have going to the relay are a red one that is connected together with another one and a gray wire and two yellow wires. The ignition switch only has one terminal so I got it right. If these are not connected properly would that keep it from charging? The check engine light came on also

Let me know which E series it is, eg. E150, E250 or E350. I also need to know what size engine it has.
I can then send you the wiring diagrams for the charging circuit and the starting circuit then that will show you where to connect everything.

I recently picked up this work van that has been sitting for two year. It starts fine but has a miss at idle and going down the road. 5.8 94 Club Wagon. I pulled one plug to inspect for corrision but found it ok. If I took the van to auto zone for example could they place a code reader on it and pin point the problem? Finally does this vehicle even have a place for a scanner since it is a 94

Yes, it can be scanned. If it has been sitting two years, have you removed the old fuel? Tune up?

Let me know what you have done.

Joe

Engine Performance problem
1992 Ford E-Series Van 6 cyl Automatic 190000 miles

check engine light is on all the time running rough what could be the the problem.

Could be many things. Need to have check engine light scanned for diagnostic codes. Most auto part stores such as AutoZone will do this for free. Retrieve codes and post them and I can better assist you with it.



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1992 ford E-series Thank You for Your Help

My son recently purchased a Ford E350 van, which seemesto run fine, but the check engine light flickers when accelerating at low speeds -- when he presses the gas pedal up to 20 mph. We didn;t notice this when we test drove the vehicle during the day, but it's noticeable at night.

Hello .. thanks for the donation . much appreciated

Take the vehicle to a good autoparts store (autozone etc.) have them scan for codes (most do this free) ... repost with the codes for a better diagnosis and repair information ..let me know

1989 ford econoline van e150. with only 64400 miles
check engine light never goes out.
Any suggestions?

Ever think of having someone scan your car and figure out what the issue is?? I'm assuming by your post you've not had it done since there's no indication you have???

My 1988 Ford e150 overheats, throttle high at idle and surges while driving, intermittent check engine light. Fault codes 12,21,34,44,13. Removing vacuum from MAP brings idle down. Not sure where to go from here. Thank you.

well the high idle is either idle control solinoid or broken plantum gaskets or a vacum leak. now the overheat could be thermostat radiator fan waterpump

I flushed and fixed the radiator (had a leak), changed the thermostat, new radiator cap, and checked all the vacuum lines. The engine gets hot really fast, and just before it gets into the red zone, it stays there. Seems to coincide with the throttle opening. If I take the vacuum line off the MAP sensor while idling, the throttle goes back to normal. The check engine light starts flashing intermittently.

coge 12idle control fault
21 ect sensor temp sensor
34 egr
44 air injection failure
13 dc motor did not move.. not sure what this code means ...


but eng getting hot quickly this could be a broken prop inside the water pump.but if you have coolant loss . then possible head gasket.
is the fan clutch easy to turn when eng is off? any water in the oil?

no coolant loss, water pump okay. No water in the oil or from exhaust. I don't know exactly what to do to correct the error codes. Do I need to replace the ect, and or egr? What is the cause of the air injection failure?

well the air injection could be the air pump not working or any part of the emmission not working.

yes the ect sensor should be replaced but won't stop the overheat.\


You say the waterpump is ok? do you have good circulation at idle?
normally this prob is a restriction in the cooling system, the coolant is not circulating through the water jackets in the engine or the radiator.why not remove the thermostat see how it cools with no stat at all?