95 Bronco oil presure

1995 FORD BRONCO
Avatar
SCOOTER692002
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
95 Bronco when idling has know oil presure.when rpms are up it is normal. Bottom half was rebuilt at 99,000 miles- it has 136,000 now. motor is a 302 automatic. Please and Thank you for your help :?
Oct 29, 2007 at 3:23 PM
Repair Safety Notice: This information is for general instructional purposes only. Vehicle repair can be dangerous. Verify all information, follow manufacturer service procedures, use proper tools and safety equipment, and consult a qualified repair shop when needed.
Advertisement
Avatar
MERLIN2021
  • CAR REPAIR CONTRIBUTOR
  • 17,250 POSTS
Does the truck have factory security system? If yes try another key or get back to me for futher help.
Aug 15, 2007 at 3:29 PM
Advertisement
Avatar
DMACIAS
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
NO security key.
Aug 15, 2007 at 4:59 PM
Avatar
MERLIN2021
  • CAR REPAIR CONTRIBUTOR
  • 17,250 POSTS
Have you checked the power distribution box? All large system fuses and relays are in there, it's under the hood, black box with a harness going into it.
Aug 15, 2007 at 5:10 PM
Avatar
DMACIAS
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
I have check all fuses and seem to be OK, but I will doble check again. Is there anything else I can look?
Aug 16, 2007 at 5:09 PM
Avatar
BMASTERJERRY
  • CAR REPAIR CONTRIBUTOR
  • 47 POSTS
[quote:f9e12ced7e="dmacias"]I have check all fuses and seem to be OK, but I will doble check again. Is there anything else I can look?[/quote:f9e12ced7e]

Try unplugging the O2 sensor, then other sensors while key is on and see if the check engine light comes on. Sounds like a short has the PCM down.

See if there's 12volts @ the coil w/key on...
Aug 16, 2007 at 9:28 PM
Avatar
DMACIAS
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
I might have found the culprit. I re-checked the Power Distr Box and probably a wirre moved slight and the truck started. After I turned it off and on again it did not start. SO maybe a bad wire from the Ign to the box exists. I will check the sensors anyway to be sure.
Aug 17, 2007 at 2:34 PM
Avatar
BMASTERJERRY
  • CAR REPAIR CONTRIBUTOR
  • 47 POSTS
[quote:37d6361d2e="dmacias"]I might have found the culprit. I re-checked the Power Distr Box and probably a wirre moved slight and the truck started. After I turned it off and on again it did not start. SO maybe a bad wire from the Ign to the box exists. I will check the sensors anyway to be sure.[/quote:37d6361d2e]


Did the MIL work when it started? Sure sounds like an EEC relay.

I also remember a TSB around that time for a break in the wiring harness near the PCM (located driver's side between firewall and LF inner fender...
Aug 17, 2007 at 8:35 PM
Avatar
DMACIAS
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
Yes, the MIL did show up when it started. I did notice that a month pior the MIL lit up a random times and finally i had a problem. The EEC relay seems be OK but I am having difficulty with the wiring diagrams I have. A bad wire seems to be the issue. I will keep on testing a wire by wire. Is there a way to rule out the PCM or EEC computer?
Aug 19, 2007 at 12:44 PM
Avatar
BMASTERJERRY
  • CAR REPAIR CONTRIBUTOR
  • 47 POSTS
[quote:8f59157b4f="dmacias"]Yes, the MIL did show up when it started. I did notice that a month pior the MIL lit up a random times and finally i had a problem. The EEC relay seems be OK but I am having difficulty with the wiring diagrams I have. A bad wire seems to be the issue. I will keep on testing a wire by wire. Is there a way to rule out the PCM or EEC computer?[/quote:8f59157b4f]

Got a Voltmeter? The EEC relay "feeds" the PCM, Fuel Pump relay, and most actuators on the engine.

1. Use voltmeter w/key on and check for battery voltage (around 12V) on the red wire going to any fuel injector, or the IAC valve, or the ignition coil. They are all the same wire so if you got 12Volts, the EEC relay is working.

2. Next, w/key on still, back probe the orange wire @ the TP sensor (I think it's the middle one?) to see if it has 5 volts (reference voltage). This will tell you if the computer is "up" but if you don't have 5 volts it doesn't necessarily mean the PCM is bad either. It could be another shorted sensor that shares the reference circuit.

If you got those 2 correct voltages, EEC and PCM are powered up...
Aug 19, 2007 at 10:54 PM
Avatar
DMACIAS
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
Here is what I checked out: W/ Ing in On Pos. Injectors had no voltage, TP no Voltage, Ing. Coil did have 12 on both wires.

I checked the EEC relay again and it was workiing and it was send voltage to the Fuel Pump Relay but loks like it was completing the ground circuit. THe relay would no click.
Aug 21, 2007 at 8:13 AM
Avatar
BMASTERJERRY
  • CAR REPAIR CONTRIBUTOR
  • 47 POSTS
1st, the coil has 12 volts going in on the red wire side and is comming out the green side which is grounded @ the proper time by the ignition module. If you unplug the coil connector,it will only have power on the red.

The injectors should have the same power/feed as the coil so I'd say there's a "break" in the red wire somewhere? Take a close look at those large connectors (and smaller ones) around the motor.

Maybe try running a jumper wire from the red coil to the red injector wire to see if it'll start next time it acts up?
Aug 24, 2007 at 7:58 PM
Avatar
DMACIAS
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
THe truck finally started, but it looks like the VIP connector(Test COnnector) was acting up.I will check all the wiring anyway. Thanks for your help and the donation was worth it.
Aug 27, 2007 at 4:14 PM
Avatar
RASMATAZ
  • CAR REPAIR CONTRIBUTOR
  • 75,992 POSTS
Do an oil pressure check-remove oil pressure sending unit hook pressure gauge up and start vehicle and let it idle should be reading about 10-12psi if so consider replacing the oil pressure sending unit. If not the oil pump is defective.

Could also be caused by sludge/pick up screen clogged up.
Oct 29, 2007 at 3:55 PM