1984 Ford Bronco Rear Main Oil Leak

Tiny
JAMES11
  • MEMBER
  • 1984 FORD BRONCO
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 56,994 MILES
My 1984 Bronco Full Size has a rear main oil leak. I have gotten an estimate on how much the part would cost and that was 30 dollars but then I asked how much it would be if a mechanic would do it and they said it would cost 300 for instalation. So would it be an easy fix, could I do it at home or should I go ahead and pay a mechanic to do this job? I would prefer to do it at home and if I could do it at home what tools would I need?

Thanks: James
Tuesday, March 31st, 2009 AT 8:16 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,542 POSTS
The labor fee is $300 because this job is a fairly long and complex job to be performed. If you plan on doing this yourself you should be aware that this is NOT a job for someone who does not have experience with mechanics. If you would like me to post the replacement procedures for your vehicle's rear main seal just let me know the correct engine size (5.0L 5.7L etc.). Then you can decide if you can do this repair successfully on your own or not.

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Tuesday, March 31st, 2009 AT 11:43 PM
Tiny
JAMES11
  • MEMBER
  • 14 POSTS
Its a 5.0L 302, and thank you for your help
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Wednesday, April 1st, 2009 AT 4:02 PM
Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,542 POSTS
Your engine is equipped with the 2-piece main seal which may be replaced with the engine and transmission in place. Replacement procedures are below. If you need further assistance just let me know.

REMOVAL/INSTALLATION:
Remove the oil pan and the oil pump (if required).
Loosen all the main bearing cap bolts, thereby lowering the crankshaft slightly but not to exceed 1 / 32 inch; (0.8mm).
Remove the rear main bearing cap, and remove the oil seal from the bearing cap and cylinder block. On the block half of the seal use a seal removal tool, or install a small metal screw in one end of the seal, and pull on the screw to remove the seal. Exercise caution to prevent scratching or damaging the crankshaft seal surfaces.
Remove the oil seal retaining pin from the bearing cap if so equipped. The pin is not used with the split-lip seal.
Carefully clean the seal groove in the cap and block with a brush and solvent such as lacquer thinner, spot remover, trichloroethylene, or equivalent. Also, clean the area thoroughly, so that no solvent touches the seal.
Dip the split lip-type seal halves in clean engine oil.
Carefully install the upper seal (cylinder block) into its groove with undercut side of the seal toward the FRONT of the engine, by rotating it on the seal journal of the crankshaft until approximately 3 / 8 inch; (9.5mm) protrudes below the parting surface. Be sure no rubber has been shaved from the outside diameter of the seal by the bottom edge of the groove. Do not allow oil to get on the sealer area.
Tighten the remaining bearing cap bolts to specifications.
Install the lower seal in the rear main bearing cap under undercut side of seal toward the FRONT of the engine, allow the seal to protrude approximately 3 / 8 inch; (9.5mm) above the parting surface to mate with the upper seal when the cap is installed.
Apply an even 1 / 16 inch; (1.6mm) bead of RTV silicone rubber sealer, to the areas, following the procedure given in the illustration.
This sealer sets up in 15 minutes.
Install the rear main bearing cap. Tighten the cap bolts to specifications.
Install the oil pump and oil pan. Fill the crankcase with the proper amount and type of oil.
Operate the engine and check for oil leaks.

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Wednesday, April 1st, 2009 AT 8:06 PM

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