Flickering back lights

Tiny
FUQUA32
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 GMC YUKON
  • 5.3L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 323,760 MILES
Replaced brake lamps, all back lights starts flickering. Replaced the turn signal, lights are still flickering. Was told there's a bad connection between the turn signal and tail lights.
Tuesday, October 15th, 2019 AT 1:46 PM

8 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,700 POSTS
Welcome to 2CarPros.

First, confirm that the correct bulb was used when replacement was done. Next, since you were moving things around when replacing the bulb, there is a chance you loosened a ground. Since all lights are affected, I suggest first checking the main ground for the lights on the spare tire hoist. See the picture I attached.

The reason I am suggesting this is because all of the lights have the same symptoms. That indicates it is one thing causing all of them to act up. The one common thing all the lights have is a common ground. I circled the ground at the bottom of the picture.

Here are a few links you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe
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Wednesday, October 16th, 2019 AT 7:14 PM
Tiny
FUQUA32
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Thank you very much, it was the ground connection. Wish I came here to 2CarPros before seeing a certified electrical car specialist from a certain busy. Having us replace the multi-function signal switch. Which didn't solve the problem.
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Friday, October 18th, 2019 AT 12:33 AM
Tiny
FUQUA32
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Also after having the the multi-function turn signal replaced. We got a engine light code for the Knock sensors. And now the door locks doesn't lock with the remote and the drive side is the only one that doesn't have to he down individually. And the cargo door ajar light went off when the ground connection was fixed Just had all O2 sensors replaced and brand new battery.
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Friday, October 18th, 2019 AT 12:47 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,700 POSTS
Welcome back:

You are very welcome. I'm glad it helped. In your last post, you mentioned new problems since the switch replacement. Do they still exist or have they been fixed?

Joe
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Friday, October 18th, 2019 AT 6:25 PM
Tiny
FUQUA32
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Problems still exist and now without warning the check engine oil pressure light came on while driving and new sounds came from the truck. Knocking/clunking noises. Took it to the shop next day, without really checking the truck, suggested oil change with a higher oil due to mileage 304, 907. Sent us to autozone in the truck, returned oil change done, light still on, noise still there, said give it 2 days if light still on bring back and change the oil switch. Got down the street and first time every truck shuts off. Had auto zone run codes, PO305, already replaced wires, ignition coils and spark plugs. PO157, replaced all up/down weeks before. PO327 was scheduled to be replaced this weekend. Back to shop, owner said without checking truck, need new motor. Never shut off before until they changed the oil and used 10W 30 with Lucas stabilizer. Oh also, was told that the knocking sound was do to my husband putting regular Unleaded, and regularly uses premium unleaded. We at a lost. No leaks anywhere. Never was told about sending unit could be bad or the oil pump.
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Friday, October 25th, 2019 AT 5:39 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,700 POSTS
Welcome to 2CarPros.

If you have a knock in the engine, don't drive it. If it is a bearing or other internal part, it will lead to more damage.

Can you record the sound and upload it for me to hear? Also, low octane fuel can cause a spark knock, but that is only heard under acceleration. Plus it would not cause low oil pressure. Also, these vehicle have what is called a knock sensor. Spark knock should be adjusted away by the computer.

Let me know if you can upload the sound.

Joe
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Friday, October 25th, 2019 AT 6:44 PM
Tiny
FUQUA32
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Sorry it took so long. Here's the video. Had it checked by a mobile mechanic yesterday. First said need a sending unit. Oil switch. From the quote given online. Got here inspected the truck said I need a motor. Metal shavings in the oil. I'm looking for a used motor or a rebuilt motor kit.
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Sunday, October 27th, 2019 AT 12:03 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,700 POSTS
Welcome back:

I listened to both videos you sent. It is making noise, but it's hard to pinpoint where it's coming from from the video. I certainly hear lifter noise. However, it doesn't sound too good.

At this point, I suggest one thing. First, don't waste the money on a new oil pressure switch. Instead, go to AutoZone and rent a mechanical oil pressure gauge. All you need to do is remove the electric on that is presently on the vehicle and screw in the mechanical gauge. Then start the engine and see what the pressure is on the gauge. Using this type of gauge basically eliminates any electrical concerns that can be causing the light to come on. It will identify what the pressure is and we can determine the next step.

Let me know if you need help or have questions. Once you have done this, let me know the pressures which were found.

Joe
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Sunday, October 27th, 2019 AT 9:08 PM

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