Flashing A/C switch light

1996 DODGE CARAVAN
200,000 MILES • 3.3L • 6 CYL • 2WD • AUTOMATIC
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REDCRU777
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The battery got discharged because the engine hood was not properly closed so the engine compartment light bulb was on overnight.

I successfully recharged the battery using my other car battery via jumper cable. The only problem is the A/C switch light and the Air Flow Vent beside it keep flashing.

I turned the engine off and on multiple times hoping that it will work but to no avail.

Please advise.

Thanks.

Rey
Mar 4, 2020 at 12:15 PM
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SCGRANTURISMO
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Hello,

This sounds like you might have to run a reset procedure on your vehicle's Heating Ventilation and Air Conditioning[HVAC] system. In the diagrams down below I have included the instructions from the vehicle manufacturer for the reset procedures for your vehicle's HVAC system. Please go through this guide and report back with how everything turns out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
Mar 4, 2020 at 7:01 PM
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REDCRU777
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Hello Alex,

I did the tests but was not successful.

After the calibration/diagnostic test, the rear wiper and intermittent lights flash alternately, and with the cool down test, the recirculation and A/C lights continue to flash simultaneously after the test.

Please advise.

Thanks.

Rey
Mar 5, 2020 at 2:34 PM
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CARADIODOC
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Please allow me to butt in and add a few comments of value. I used to have to do this at the dealership, and the cool down test can be rather frustrating. My record is 20 attempts. To add to the frustration, there's a good chance the cool down test won't pass if you follow the service manual procedure exactly.

The mode door calibration test passes very easily, but the cool down test requires the AC system to be operational. If, for example, you don't want to repair a leak in the system, this test will never pass.

The manual tells you to start with the temperature set to "Cold". To pass the test, the computer wants to see an 80 degree drop in temperature within 20 seconds. How is that supposed to happen when it's already cold? Instead, run the system with the heater set to ""Hot" and with the AC system running. The AC turns on any time the system is set to "defrost". As soon as you press the two switches to start the cool down test, move the temperature control to full "Cold". The calibration should complete after 20 seconds.

If the cool down test fails and the lights keep on flashing, be aware the radiators are so efficient, they may prevent the coolant from getting hot enough to start the test, even when the radiator fan doesn't turn on. If that happens, run the cool down test right after driving at highway speed for a good ten minutes or more. That always led to success for the most stubborn systems.

The heater core gets to around 180 to 190 degrees, but it has to warm air that just came through the AC evaporator. Temperature at the duct should be at least 140 degrees. The evaporator is regulated to hold its temperature to 40 degrees, (high enough that condensed humidity won't freeze on it and block air flow through it). Duct temperature on straight AC is supposed to be around 60 degrees but on most vehicles it will be even less than that. There's the 80 degree difference, but that's at the duct openings. The range is larger where the temperature sensor sits, but it can still take multiple attempts to get the cool down test to pass.
Mar 7, 2020 at 7:34 PM
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REDCRU777
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Hi CARADIODOC,

Thanks so much for this added info, I'll do this as per your instruction.
I'll keep you posted.

Warm regards.

Rey
Mar 8, 2020 at 3:13 PM
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STRAILER
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Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.
Mar 11, 2020 at 3:42 PM
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REDCRU777
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Hello Alex, Caradiodoc, Ken;

Just letting you know that It work!

I did what Caradiodoc suggested using the diagram Alex provided.

Many thanks for your support!

Wishing 2CarPros the best!

My warmest regards.

Rey







Mar 13, 2020 at 9:21 AM
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CARADIODOC
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Dandy. Happy to hear you solved it. Please come back to see us again.
Mar 14, 2020 at 11:21 AM