Extremely rough running

Tiny
STEVEN JAMES CARLINE
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 DODGE DURANGO
  • 5.9L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 220,000 MILES
Okay, so car was fine, sitting at an idle in a split second it all went wrong. Suddenly it starts running so rough the whole car shakes. When idling can barely stay running although it tries. Will stay running at idle when cold but again it has to try really hard to keep running. This continues with driving engine so rough the entire body shakes. Before I take it in, I would like some ideas as to what it could be. I get that it is next to impossible to diagnose it just by reading this, lol. Also, there is a very rich smell coming from the vehicle. Before this, the only two problems was a leaky seal causing oil burn when warmed up and auto tension-er pulley going out.
Monday, May 21st, 2018 AT 5:03 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
STEVEN JAMES CARLINE
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
Video, thought it could show how hard the engine was hitting but it did not, but you get the idea, lol.
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Monday, May 21st, 2018 AT 6:07 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,640 POSTS
Hi Steve and thanks for using 2CarPros.com. I hear a dead misfire from the video. So, we need to start there. First, it appears the check engine light is on. So, I need you to have the computer scanned to identify trouble codes. Once I get that, it will be much easier to narrow down the problem.

If you have access to a scanner and want to do it at home. Here is video showing how to get the codes:

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

Once you get the codes, I will be able to help much better. Without knowing the codes, there are too many possibilities.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

PS: If it will make it to a parts store, many will scan it for free.
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Monday, May 21st, 2018 AT 7:27 PM
Tiny
STEVEN JAMES CARLINE
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
Yeah but I do not know what kind of damage driving it like that would cause. Next time I drive it will be to the mechanic shop, lol. I was just kind of hoping to get some possible things it could be so I have some idea of what I could be walking into. So far among friends, the two most popular ideas are a vacuum leak or sensor either of which should not be much more than $100.00 to get fixed. As for the check engine light it is eighteen years old, haha it has been on since I got it. Only two known pre-existing issues is the belt tension-er pulley and a seal causing oil to burn when warm. The strong rich running smell supports sensor or a vacuum leak. The missing may just be due to the fact it needs a major tune-up. All new wires and plugs and everything, lol. The person who had it before me did not take very good care of it but it is still in good shape. Transmission, drive-train, and engine all still in great shape. Still have plenty enough get up and go left to light up the rear tires from a complete stop and if it is wet out spin them if I slam the gas at even forty mph. I knew before posting that a definitive diagnosis via forums would be next to impossible that is okay. Just looking for possible things it could be, lol. Tried Googling but none of them mention rough running while in motion only at idle. The severe chugging continues while driving and the vibrations are so bad they rattle things inside the cab of the car. My first thought was " I think it is only running on like two cylinders", but when I drove it or just rev it up there is no power lost. It just chugs really hard and hesitates before zooming off.
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Monday, May 21st, 2018 AT 7:48 PM
Tiny
STEVEN JAMES CARLINE
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
But yeah it drives. It is just really rough and when coming to a stop. I have to add power to keep it running until moving again. Then it does not try to shut off or even pull, it just chugs so hard it rattles everything inside the ancient cab of the vehicle, lol.
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Monday, May 21st, 2018 AT 7:51 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,640 POSTS
Hi again. Actually, the rich fuel smell indicates the opposite of a vacuum leak. You may have a sticking injector, high fuel pressure, a bad coolant temperature sensor. Have the computer scanned and let me know the codes. I feel confident I could point you in the right direction.

Let me know,
Joe
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Tuesday, May 22nd, 2018 AT 7:03 PM
Tiny
STEVEN JAMES CARLINE
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
Took it in today, left cylinder head went bad or so I was told. I am a computer guy, mechanics are not so much my thing but he did show me the device used for checking compression and while they attempted to start it the needle did not move. It is not even worth fixing lol. The fix would cost more than the car is worth, haha. Provided they were not trying to snow me to get a lot of money on an expensive fix, lol.
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Tuesday, May 22nd, 2018 AT 8:32 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,640 POSTS
Hello again. If the needle on the compression gauge did not move at all, that tells me there is a valve in the head that is either bent or stuck. You could remove the valve cover, which is not hard on this vehicle and check to see if one is not moving. They should never get stuck, but I have seen people tap them with a nylon hammer and they break loose and start working again. Or, you could purchase a used cylinder head and replace it yourself. I could provide the directions for you. It is just a thought. If you want the directions for removing the valve cover just to check, let me know and I will be glad to help.

Let me know and take care,
Joe
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Wednesday, May 23rd, 2018 AT 7:21 PM

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