Exhaust leak

Tiny
JJWEST
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 FORD ESCAPE
  • 3.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • 185,000 MILES
I believe the exhaust manifold on the firewall side may have a crack in it. I was an automobile mechanic many years ago, but I am near seventy years old and thought I might be able to handle this leak as I thought it was a gasket or a donut. But, it appears it is the exhaust manifold although I cannot even see it. How in the world is anybody supposed to get at it? If you can, get at it are the studs accessible to a torch if they need to be heated rather than broken into broken into the head? Need some help and advise. Thanks
Tuesday, October 17th, 2017 AT 3:48 PM

6 Replies

Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
Work the studs back and fort slowly. With the manifold removed if there is a broken stud, you may be luck to be able to get a stud extractor on it, a small amount of heat will help with a propane torch, get the manifold out of the way before stressing on something that may not be a problem. Often when a stud breaks the tension is released and it is not as bad to remove as you expect.
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Tuesday, October 17th, 2017 AT 6:29 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 14,053 POSTS
You get to that manifold from underneath. With it on a lift you can reach it easier.
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Tuesday, October 17th, 2017 AT 11:59 PM
Tiny
JJWEST
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Apparently from what I read the axle has to come out on the passenger side as well as the alternator, but my question and concern is more once all that stuff is removed is there a clear shot to heat the studs? Because I am really afraid that if one of these studs breaks in the head I am better off just leaving this manifold crack. I am hoping to hear from someone who has actually done this job. I had it on a lift briefly I could not see a thing up there ridiculous, but I am an old-timer and I used to sit on the wheel well and change spark plugs in my day, lol.
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Wednesday, October 18th, 2017 AT 3:28 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 14,053 POSTS
It is not wide open because the converter is in the way. You can still get to the nuts with a torch, but the ones I have done came loose okay and I am in the rust belt.
I pull the cross member off and drop the tie rod out of the way. Then you have room to work.
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Wednesday, October 18th, 2017 AT 11:06 AM
Tiny
JJWEST
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Thanks, if I found an independent garage where they have done these, I would probably let them do it, but I am cheap, and have an AC/DC tig welder, and on something this old, I would rather fix the manifold. I doubt a shop would wait on me welding it, so that is the reason I am considering doing it myself. Thanks for the input
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Wednesday, October 18th, 2017 AT 11:16 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 14,053 POSTS
They normally crack under the shield on the engine side opposite the O2 sensor. I have repaired a few manifolds using TIG with silicone bronze. Seemed to bond and stay.
Do not forget to drill the ends to stop the crack.
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Wednesday, October 18th, 2017 AT 1:56 PM

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