Evaporative System?

The Fuel Trims showed in the video, I could see them clearly, I grabbed some screen captures. I can see why the Catalyst monitor is not passing, at idle around 650-700rpm the Bank 1 Long Term was at -16% and the Short Term was -2.3% ( I think on that one, or it was -23%) hard to tell but even at -2.3%, that is -18.3% total fuel trim, Thats way too high. At another point it was -10% and -10% on Bank 1, so there's -20% total trim, that's almost maxed out. And it looks like that might be because the Bank 1 sensor 2 oxygen sensor was over 0.8v (800mv) the entire time, it never goes below that level.

The Evap VP pressure of -18InH20 equals just about 0.6 psi, which is right at the max level for an Evap system. When testing and Evap system for leaks with a smoke machine, the max pressure is right around 0.5 PSI.

Now I don't know if this vehicle has Air Fuel Ratio sensors up front for each Bank or just conventional Oxygen sensors, but the EQ Ratio being at 0.999 looks to be very close to being Stoichiometric (14.7 to 1) the correct air/fuel mixture, so the ECM is able to keep it there but it looks like it's doing it with a lot of compensation with those fuel trims.
And the MAP sensor looks low, 10 inHg is too low for idle, it should be around 18 or so.
As you raised the rpm up to 1700, that's when the fuel trims on Bank 1 got worse, so did Bank 2 it went to -15.6% total trim, but Bank 2 was okay at idle.
The Converter temps seem to stay pretty equal, but I don't know if that data PID is really anything to go by.

What you should do now since we've seen some live data, is if you can select certain data PIDs and just monitors those without all the other data in there. If you can grab all 4 Oxygen sensors voltages, all 4 Fuel trims, MAF and MAP readings, and get readings at hot idle for 5 minutes or so and then raise the rpm to 2500 for a minute and see what we get there.
I'm worried about that MAP sensor reading, it didn't budge at all, and if it's reading only
10 inHg at idle, the ECM might compensate for the incorrectly, Low manifold vacuum happens when the throttle plates are opening, and you're cruising at light throttle. Manifold vacuum is at its highest when the throttle plates are closed,

These are the readings I captured from your video, the MAF looked to be reporting correctly at idle, right where it should be, Then I put the numbers in at idle for a VE Test (Volumetric Efficiency Test) which shows how well the engine is breathing. Taking in air and allowing exhaust out, it only came out to around 53% but the Load calculation was spot on.

You can force the engine lean and see what the fuel trim numbers do by causing a vacuum leak. And see if the Bank 1 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor voltage comes down from 800mv. Maybe that sensor is stuck at 800mv causing the ECM to compensate and take fuel away due to a bad sensor. It would be good to get some numbers with the engine under a pretty heavy load, like a wide-open throttle run for a few seconds so we can calculate a more accurate VE test. It really should be done using numbers from the WOT run. Just do it on some back road so you stay safe, and don't get a ticket.

Oh okay, so that fuel trim is actually 1.6% and not 16%, it was difficult to see exactly what the reading was, I do think B1 is running a bit more rich, maybe not as much as I previously thought. It is safe to create a vacuum leak or add an alternate fuel source for testing purposes at idle, I wouldn't drive like that, but pulling off the brake booster hose to send the system lean and make sure it responds is ok.

This screen capture here though is actually -20.4% total on Bank 1 and -15.6% on Bank 2, so it looks like at higher rpm (1700) things go super rich. I would ignore the B2S2 voltage with a fuel trim added to it, look at them separate, the 99% is a substituted value from the scan tool. Thats why I only look at the actual Fuel Trim data PIDs themselves and the 02 voltages by themselves.

The black soot at the end of the tail pipes either means we are dealing with an actual rich condition, or the Catalytic converters are not doing their job enough. Of course, though a rich condition to begin with is what causes the Cats to fail. The Catalytic converters need to be able to store a certain amount of oxygen within the substrate, this aids in the converters ability to burn off the excess hydrocarbons and CO that comes from normal emissions.

So, when you took the gas cap off, was it vacuum that was pulling on the gas cap when you took it off or was it more of positive pressure that somewhat pushed the gas cap off then you turned it?

This fuel system has a return line for the fuel, so all the fuel that is not used is sent back to the gas tank and it is hot at that point from its travels through the fuel rail on the engine block and when you turn off the vehicle, the warm gasoline returning to the tank expands and causes positive pressure to build. You can see this on the fuel tank pressure sensor after a drive. That along with the filling issue points to the Vent Solenoid not open with the vehicle off. It might be just sticking closed, causing that problem. I think once you get that issue resolved, the Evap monitors should pass.

As for the MAP sensor, do you see the vacuum reading change as you open the throttle plates? Because at idle, if that MAP is really sending that low manifold vacuum reading to the ECM, technically it should enrich the mixture, although the other sensors are going to send data to the ECM that is the opposite. And we might get this back-and-forth compensating effect. You could put a manual vacuum gauge on the engine and see what it's actually reading. Another test is back probing the MAP sensor and taking a voltage reading, watching for a voltage change with throttle opening. It's on a 5v Reference feed, and at just key on it should read close to 4.5volts and then drop to around 2volts at idle. It gets tricky when the vehicle has both a MAF and MAP, most have one or the other. But if you put a manual vacuum gauge on it and its reading closer to 15-18 inHg and the MAP is still reading 10 inHg, something is off there. The ECM is determining the vacuum reading according to the MAP sensor voltage.

But there is something going on at higher rpms, 1700 and up, you could see if the fuel rail holds fuel pressure with the vehicle off, if there are leaking injectors the pressure will drop off after a couple minutes. I really like the Fuel injector balance test because it shows the flow rate of each one despite if they are sequential, or bank fired injectors. The tool for pulsing the injectors while the engine is off only costs about $30 and hooks up the battery. Then with a fuel pressure gauge on the rail, you just pulse each injector and measure the pressure drop. Any difference of only 2-3 psi is a problem injector.

And if I'm unsure about the Catalytic converter conditions Ill pull out the front oxygen sensors and first do a visual inspection with a bore scope camera, and do a back pressure test a idle with one from 02 out at a time, just idling for a minute or so. There shouldn't be more than 1-2psi of back pressure. Start with investigating the MAP first to see if it's off. Service info states that during Starting Mode the ECM will check speed density using the MAP sensor then switches over to the MAF.
The front Oxygen sensors I was referring to are called Air/Fuel Ratio sensors (A/F Ratio sensors), they are a newer technology compared to conventional oxygen sensors. They are also known as Wideband Oxygen sensors, because they work on a much wider range of air fuel mixtures than regular oxygen sensors. Below is a video explaining their operations. I looked up the part numbers and it looks like you have conventional front oxygen sensors, I would expect the rear 02s to have a somewhat lower steady voltage than what they are reading, Bank 1 was 800mv and Bank 2 was around 700mv almost all the time, that's indicating a richer exhaust making it passed the Cats. And that might be why the fuel trims hit -20% at higher rpm. But also, if the Vent valve is stuck closed, that could be part of the issue too, it should be open when the ECM is purging the tank. The Vent valve draws in fresh air while the Purge valve draws in vapor from the tank. I think much will be resolved once that is figured out.
I did see the Fuel Level reading about 19% here, that's less than a 1/4 tank, is your fuel gauge reading that during these captures?

Sorry for my long posts, I just want to be thorough about what we're going over here.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AyuLrbzXDBw

No, I was just explaining the difference between conventional 02 sensors and wideband sensors, your vehicle has conventional sensors, you can't switch them with wideband AF sensors, the vehicle has to come with them from the manufacture. They work off current flow instead of voltage like conventional narrow band 02 sensors, I just see those rear 02 sensors reading rich all the time in your live data and the large negative fuel trims happened at higher rpm. I see the MAP sensor becoming somewhat active in the first video there, so it looks okay, it's not stuck at one reading. So that rules out the MAP sensor. If you're able to fill the tank better at some points it might be that the vent solenoid is sticking intermittently, but your scan tool is not capable of commanding the Vent closed to see if there is any pressure rise, so you'll have to check it manually, but I'll go through this other data you posted here.

You can see how those rear 02 sensors are always on the high side, and the fuel trims are just all over the place, but the main concern to begin with was the issue with filling the tank, I could hear some strange pressure noises while you were filling it for sure. I wouldn't put the stations filler handle so far into the filler neck either. They are not designed to be in that far. The handle is designed to click off when the tank reaches a certain level. It sounded like the filler neck was becoming overwhelmed by vapor pressure. So just start with the Vent solenoid, get that filling issue taken care of. Try keeping the fill handle out further and see if that makes any difference. And we'll go from there. Those fuel trims might improve if the tank is able to draw in fresh air while purging the vapors.

It did pass inspection then, even with the Evap monitor not complete? The duty cycle on the Purge valve is because the Purge is pulse width modulated, (pwm) meaning the ECM can control flow by increasing of decreasing the pulse width of the Purge solenoid. Excuse the crude drawing below, but its a 0v to 12v control and you can see that with a longer pulse (or on time) there will be more flow through the solenoid, and opposite for a shorter pulse. That Purge number is duty cycle.

The fuel trims look much better now, I don't see anything going over even 10%. As for the Oxygen sensors, the front two (B1S1 and B2S1) they should fluctuate between 0.2v(200mv) and 0.8v(800mv), that's normal for narrow band 02 sensors, the rear B1S2 and B2S2 should stay steady, usually around 0.6v to 0.7v roughly.

You are correct about the ECM relearning its fuel strategy, but it also might be that there was some carbon build up on either the spark plugs or fuel injectors tips from sitting for a while. That may have now burned off and cleared up since you're giving it a good run on the highway.
6 to 8% fuel trims are fine. I don't know how that specific scan tool is calculating the Cat temperatures, around 1200f is normal, if they get up to around 2000f that's not good, that's melt down temperature. And a rich mixture is what causes that. So, if you happen to notice the fuel trims going negative again and being over -10%, that means the ECM is taking away fuel from the mixture due to a rich condition.

The issue with having the fill handle at the gas station in too far, is that it can over fill the tank. This causes the canister to end up with liquid gas in it when it's only supposed to store vapor. Once the canister had liquid gasoline in it, the charcoal pellets start to break apart and they travel down the purge hose from the canister and end up getting stuck into the purge valve, this in turn, causes the purge valve to stick open. I don't think this has happened in your case, but that's just why it's not good to overfill a tank, you might just have a vent solenoid that's intermittently sticking, and that's all.

If you wanted to bidirectionally control the vent solenoid you would need a scan tool with that special function. A higher end scan tool. It's a good investment if you are planning on repairing your own vehicles in the future. I have 4 different scan tools I use. But there are some really great ones out now. Autel is good but expensive and requires a subscription every year. My Autel is about $120 a year, that's for all the software updates for newer vehicles and some functions. Launch has some good ones, Topdon is a newer company, but they are flying by the competition when it comes to capabilities. I'll look up a couple and post the info on them here for you shortly, it really depends on how much you want to spend. You just have to look at what special functions they can do, when going over the specs.

I'm sure it depends on the failure they would allow, the OBD2 system is really designed for emissions purposes, but tell her not to try jamming as much as possible in it. I see a lot of people just keep trying to fill the tank to the top by pulling the handle out a little further, and that's what overwhelms the canister, and it ends up affecting the entire system. It starts setting rich and lean codes, and evap pressure sensor codes, etc.