Engine will not stay running, codes p1553, p1554, p0369, p0102, p0140, p0015

Here is the breakdown of these codes:

P0015 - Cam Bank 1 over retarded
P0102 - MAF circuit low
P0140- O2 sensor no activity Bank 1 sensor 2
P0369 - Cam Bank 1 circuit intermittent
P1553 Engine position performance bank 1
P1554 - Engine position performance Bank 1

Based on all these and what you are experiencing, it appears the engine is out of time. The backfire was probably when the engine jumped timing and shut off. Unfortunately we are going to need to pull down the engine and check the timing.

I attached the process on how to check the timing. Please let me know if you have questions and we can from there. Thanks

Thanks, can I have a video to show me the process of checking engine timing?

Unfortunately we don't have a video on this engine. The best I can do are the instructions I provided. I looked online for a video but could not find one on your engine assuming you have the M54 engine. Is this accurate or do you have a different engine?

What I have is a BMW 330i e90 N52 engine.

We do not have a video on this engine either, but here are three videos that I found on the internet that have other DIY'ers and a business that works on BMW's running through this.

I am sure if these don't give you the detail that you are looking for, I am sure there are others.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A0pXlYMht2Y

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=16PIln67iIQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v-5szBSSOSI

Please let us know how you make out with this. Thanks

Thanks, I have set the timing and the car started and run but rough later shut off the same way. Check again it has jump timing. What can the cause of it jumping timing?

The most common cause of an engine to jump timing is a loose chain/belt. This could be due to it being stretched or more likely the tensioner is not keeping the proper tension. The other common cause is the chain/belt and sprockets are worn and when tension is put to them, they can't hold it and they jump a tooth or two.

Basically the only way to know is tear it down and check the tension and then inspect for worn components mentioned above.

Let me know if you have questions. Thanks

Have changed the timing chain and now it stays in timing, but still does the same problem and gives me error codes p0102 and p0012.

Okay. These codes are as follows

P0012 - Intake cam bank 1 timing does not correspond with ECM expectation
P0102 - MAF signal performance outside the proper range.

If the timing is correct then we need to inspect the sensor itself for the P0012. The MAF is most likely different then the cam sensor code but if it were me, I would start with this one and if it is gone and the intake cam code is still there then you can address it.

More than like the MAF sensor is failed and needs replaced. However, here is a process on how to clean it. I would start with this and see what codes come back.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/mass-air-flow-service

I just noticed that the voltage the fuel pump is 7.5v and not up to 12v.
My question is, what could be the course of this problem and where can start from in diagnosing this issue?
Code I still get are p1124, p0205 and p0102.

Okay. The P1124 is a throttle position sensor out of range.
P0205 - Is an injector circuit out of range.

The fuel pump only having 7.5 volts is normally caused by resistance in the circuit or a faulty ground. The ground is X494 which is behind the right rear seat. I would suggest taking the fuel pump relay out and unplug the fuel pump, then measure resistance from Pin 87 from the relay to the fuel pump connector. You should have less then a half ohm of resistance.

Then check the ground and make sure it is clean and tight.

Hello, I have done everything the code brought and what you told me to do, but still the same thing and I have run out of ideas. Please help.

The only thing I have not change is the coil and I tested all 6 as I saw In this video. I didn't get the same reading as to the video. So can all 6 coil go bad at once.
Below is the link to test the coil.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=Tjsx-K1mjkQ

It is unlikely that all would fail at the same time. What were the readings you were getting on the primary and secondary side of the coils?

Your primary side should be around 1 ohm. The secondary side could vary depending on the coil as you saw in that video. As long as you are getting between 5,000-20,000 ohms of resistance, it should be okay.

Yes, on the primary side it varies BTW 0.9 to 1.2 ohms but on the secondary side am getting 0 ohms of resistance. It stays in 0 at all time. That the reading I get on all 6 coils.

If you have 0 resistance, I assume you mean it is an open circuit. Clearly that is not correct but I am concerned it is how you are checking for this resistance because of how unlikely it is for all 6 to fail the same way. Are you checking from the terminal when they plug in and then on the part that is in the boot that connects to the spark plug?

If you are and you have no resistance, then they are all failed.

I tested the coil as it was done in the video I sent you and i got one coil from someone which is not mine and after testing the coil, it reading was like that of the video.

Wow. I was just checking because it was not really clear that he changed positions when taking the secondary side.

I am surprised but if that is how it is then they are failed. Well done.

So could that be the reason the car did not start and what is your own way of testing a coil?

I test the secondary coil resistance the same way as that video showed. There really isn't another way. So yes. If the coils are not able to produce the high voltage needed in the secondary side then you will have a very poor and weak spark. If all 6 are this way, I doubt the engine would start. If it did, it would run really poor.

Good day.

I've done so many things to that car expecting it to start and still it doesn't want to start. I've actually gotten brand-new 6 coins and has inserted them into that car, I've gotten a new fuel pump, I got a new crankshaft. new intake vanos sensor and camshaft sensor. I also got brand new battery from another working car and still the car won't start. I was also told if the exhaust was blocked that the car also won't start but have not check that. I have also tested valvletronic seems to be working because I used 12 volts to test and it row. Please I'm actually confused I don't know what else to check and what else to do can you please advise me on what next?

Any time I get to this point we need to do one of two things. Seek a second opinion for someone to look at it with you. Or act like you have done nothing to it and start fresh.

So what is the current state of it starting? When you turn the key does the dash light up like normal and the engine crank but it doesn't start?

If so, we need to check for spark and fuel. Then check for codes and see what is active. I am not interested in stored or old codes. Only what codes are currently active.

Then to check for fuel, spray starter fluid in the intake and see if it starts for a second. For spark, remove the plug and connect the coil back to it and hold it against the block and see if it sparks when you crank the engine.

Let me know about each of these things and we can go from there. Again, don't tell me what the result was in the past. We need to do it all again in the event something is different. Making those assumptions is why we are going in circles. Thanks

I started are fresh and got 6 new plugs and change the coils. The car started, idled for a bit then shut off. I restarted it and press the gas pedal but the could not pass 3 rpm and later loss power then shut off. Try starting it again but no start.
Codes I got:

P1554
P1553
P0015
P0102
P0205

Okay. So replacing plugs and coils that all failed on the secondary side got the engine to start. Now it is not starting again. I would test the coils again and see if the secondary side is failed again. These codes all point to an open circuit issue so I am thinking we have a possible driver issue with the ECM. Remind me if you replaced the ECM already or not?

Let me know if the coils are okay and we can go from there. Thanks

I have tested the coils and they are all good even tested them on another car. ECM has not been changed but I inserted it in another car and it worked. Could be that I have a low compression in the engine or one of the shaft has bent?

And also as I pulled out the plugs I noticed only cylinder 4 to 6 fire. Cylinder 1 to 3 did not fire.

I doubt this is a compression issue but here is a guide if you want to check it:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Just reviewing these codes and the history on this thread, I hate to say it but it appears it jumped timing again. I see that this basically happened the same way as it did prior and you found that the timing had jumped.

If it did, then we either have a chain issue or a possible tensioner/guide issue. Basically there is too much slack in the chain and once there is tension put to it, it jumps timing and the engine cuts off.

Let me time back the engine and tight the tensioner bolt and see what will happen.

Okay. Sounds great. Before you mess with the bolt, just push on the chain and see if there is much slack. There should be very little. It should feel pretty tight. At least that will give us some idea that we are on the right path. Thanks

I have done it and the chain looks pretty tight, because I was touching it while a turn the engine manually. Set timing and start the car and it runs poorly only if I press the pedal and it never revved pass 3 rpm and later shut off the same way. After 3 attempts with the same thing car won't start and gives car codes p0015, p0102, p0205, p0203 and p1124.

Okay, so if the engine was not starting and you timed it again and the engine started and then did the exact same thing again, you have an issue with the timing chain or tensioners. It is rare but I suspect the chain has stretched and is just not tight enough so it keeps jumping time.

Clearly I am only going off what the vehicle is doing after you re-time it so I would suggest getting another chain and take the one off the vehicle and lay them next to each other. Again this simply from experience and applying that to what this is doing. If the chain is not stretched then the tensioner is loosening when the engine is running.

Kindly listen to the video on the latest update.

Great update using that video. Two things. First the metal shavings that you felt is not a good sign. Most likely that is bearing material and could cause some issues but I don't think it is causing this one. I suspect that tensioner is your issue.

I can't say I have ever checked the tension on an N52 engine but most tensioners that I have felt, I could not compress.

Here is a video of someone changing the tensioner and he squeezes the old one and it does not compress at all. Now this may still have the oil in it but even still when he is installing the new one, it appears to have a lot more tension when he is screwing it in. I may have missed it but was that a replacement tensioner or the existing one? Either way, I would get another and compare it. Even if you took that one down to the parts store and just took the new one out of the box and compared the spring tension.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a5JOYuntlgA

The first start my leg was not on the pedal but the second time it started my leg was on the pedal and it couldn't rave pass 2 rpm then later shot off could not restart again. Tensioner has been replaced.

Another thing, I just noticed is that when cylinder 1 is at top dead center cylinder 2 is also at TDC. Is that a good sign or what?

That engine sounds like it is knocking or rattling quite a bit. Have you drained the oil and cut apart the filter to see how much metal is in it? Drain the oil into a pan and then pour it through a coffee filter to see how much metal is there.

As for the pistons, that does not sound correct. Take a look at the picture of your block with no head. 1 and 6, 2 and 5, 3 and 4 are synced together and the piston will be in the same position but on opposite strokes. So when 1 is coming up on the compression stroke, number 6 will be coming up on the exhaust stroke.

If you have number 1 and 2 at TDC, they will be on different strokes but that is not correct.

Hello, I am having a challenge. I started the car and it ran for some minutes and now it won't start again. No spark on the coil and injector not spraying fuel. I used my test led to check if the trigger wires bring current while i start the car but no voltage since on coil and injector plug. It throwing 1124 fault code only .
Please what might be the cause (E90 330I 2006)?

I have solved the above problem. but now the car still won't start and give p0335 error code. I have changed 4 crankshaft sensor and still it won't start. I even have got 2 crankshaft sensor from a working vehicle and still it won't start and still throw error code p0335.
What can i do now?

Thanks for the update. Unfortunately, we need to get a new post started and work through this issue. We need to keep each post to one topic so that others can find the issues if they have a similar one.

Glad you worked out the other issue. Here is a link to start a new post. Thanks

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new