Engine takes longer to fire when cold?

Yes, it could be the fuel pump but before we suspect that let's do a throttle bore service and check for vacuum leaks. Please follow this guide to do the service which I have included instruction below for your car and follow the vacuum leak guide when the engine is cold only:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

This hard starting guide can help you understand the problem as well:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-cranks-excessively-before-starting

Check out the images (below). Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem.

Thanks, I have access to a fuel pressure gauge, and I believe the throttle body was just cleaned around 50,000 miles ago I'll have to check the records.

I got this van when it had around 200,000 miles on it and all maintenance prior was done at the dealer by the original owner. I got a thick folder of records when I bought it. I don't see where the fuel filter/pump was ever replaced though...

Sounds good. here is how to test the fuel pressure and I have included how to change out the fuel pump just in case you need it:

Fuel Pressure Test

Special Tools Required

- Fuel Pressure Gauge 07406-004000B
- Fuel Pressure Gauge Attachment Set 07AAJ-S6MA150

1. Relieve the fuel pressure See: Fuel Pressure Release > Procedures.

2. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting. Attach the fuel pressure gauge set and the fuel pressure gauge.

3. Start the engine, and let it idle.

- If the engine starts, go to step 5.
- If the engine does not start, go to step 4.

4. Check to see if the fuel pump is running: Listen to the fuel filler port with the fuel fill cap removed. The fuel pump should run for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is first turned to ON (II).

- If the pump runs, go to step 5.
- If the pump does not run, do the fuel pump circuit troubleshooting See: Fuel Pump > Component Tests and General Diagnostics > Fuel Pump Circuit Troubleshooting.

5. Read the fuel pressure gauge. The pressure should be 380-430 kPa (3.9-4.4 kgf/cm2, 55-63 psi).

- If the pressure is okay, the test is complete.
- If the pressure is out of specification, replace the fuel pressure regulator See: Fuel Pressure Regulator > Removal and Replacement and the fuel filter See: Fuel Filter > Removal and Replacement, then recheck the fuel pressure.

Here is how to change out the fuel pump as well. Please let me know how it goes. Check out the images below.

I haven't had a chance to check the pressure yet, but when I went to start it today, I turned the key (but didn't try to crank) and listened for the fuel pump. Once I heard it go off, I shut the key off then turned it again and tried to crank it. It fired up in 1-2 seconds like normal. So it seems like the pump isn't getting the fuel to the engine quick enough when it's cold?

Yep, that is a good test letting you know the fuel pump is weak. Nice job.

Question, does the fuel pump only run before cranking to "prime" the engine, or does it run all the time once it's running? I haven't noticed any loss of power or hesitation with the engine...

Yes, the pump runs one to prime when the key is turned on, and then it runs continuously when the engine is running. It sounds like the pump check valve is stuck open which causes it to lose it prime. You can confirm the issues if you do a fuel pump pressure test, here is a guide to help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

You can rent a gauge from the local auto parts store. Check out the images (below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Okay, I have access to a gauge I'll try to check it one of these days.

Please let us know what you find.