Engine stalls when put in Drive?

2004 CHEVROLET TAHOE
168,000 MILES • 5.3L • V8 • 4WD • AUTOMATIC
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BILL MARSHALL
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I have the 5.3 flex fuel engine. About a week ago, the truck started having an occasional issue where when you hit the gas, the engine would rev, but the truck wouldn't accelerate for a few seconds, like it was slipping. Sometimes it's like it builds up and then finally catches and launches you forward, other times it feels like it's in too high of a gear and won't downshift to the correct gear.

Then, it started occasionally stalling when coming to a stop as the RPMs would drop to idle. That has now turned into the engine stalling every time I put it in drive from park. If I put it in reverse, it's fine, but as soon as I drop it down to drive, the engine stalls. If I keep the engine running by feathering the gas then it will stall when I come up to the next stop. Placing the transmission in neutral just before I stop will keep it running and then back into drive with a little feathering to go again.

My first thought was fuel pressure so I replaced the fuel pressure regulator. Static pressure (KOEO) while the pump primes is about 48 psi, when it stops priming it's about 40 psi. Running pressure is also about 40 psi, pulling the vacuum line from the regulator while running jumps the pressure up to about 46 psi.

There were 2 pending codes, bank 1 rich and bank 2 rich, but no stored codes. I have a mid-level scan tool that is bidirectional and can do many active tests and special functions. I did a misfire count test, but all were zero. I also did a transmission slip test, which also was zero (it's possible I didn't do it correctly).

I've clean the mass air flow sensor and the throttle body. With there being no stored codes, I'm not sure where to go from here.
Mar 15, 2026 at 4:58 PM
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To me is sounds like the transmission or catalytic converter is having an issue. If the TCC is stuck, putting the transmission into gear is like dumping the clutch in a manual transmission without pushing the clutch pedal, the engine stalls. Is this what it seems like it happening? Here is a video to help to confirm the catalytic converter issue of not, also here is the location of the TCC solenoid so you can swap it out as well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kNXh1Lphzr4&pp=0gcJCcUKAYcqIYzv

Check out the images (below). Please upload a short video in your response, so I can see what's going on. Ken
Mar 16, 2026 at 10:21 AM
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BILL MARSHALL
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If you've ever owned a carburated vehicle and the idle was set too low which caused the engine to stall as you came to a stop, it's like that. I'll try the laser thermometer test on the cat and see if I can test the ohms on the tcc solenoid. I'm pretty sure I can command the tcc to engage with my scan tool. How could I tell if its actually working if I do?
Mar 16, 2026 at 11:02 AM
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BILL MARSHALL
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But wouldn't there be a cat or tcc code?
Mar 16, 2026 at 11:24 AM
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Yep, there should be codes but not all the time, if you drive the car you should be able to command the TCC solenoid on and off and you should be able to feel the difference from one to the next, if so we can rule the TCC solenoid out. Also, I have seen the torque converter itself come apart internally and cause the engine to stall due to the clutch not releasing. Let me know how it goes.
Mar 17, 2026 at 8:52 AM
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BILL MARSHALL
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I changed the fuel filter, for good measure and the engine stopped stalling when I put it in drive and also when I come to a stop. I took it for a 30 mile drive, 15 to destination, 15 back. I used the scan tool to command the tcc on while on the streets, but honestly, I couldn't tell a difference with it on or off. It did show in the live data that it was cycling between yes and no under "TCC Enabled" as I was driving and "Torque Converter Efficiency" showed 0.99.

15 minutes of freeway driving with no issues. On the return trip, as I was getting on the freeway, halfway up the on ramp the engine rev'd almost to redline, but the truck wasn't accelerating anymore. I let off the gas and pressed it again and it was fine. No other issues on the freeway. I get to the very last red light before my residential street and as I'm coming to a stop, the engine starts to sputter like it wants to stall. The light changes and I go. Pulled into my driveway and again, sputtering like it wants to stall, although it didn't and I shut it off.

I did notice after I changed the fuel filter that the static fuel pressure would drop from about 40 psi to about 20 psi within 5 minutes or so, but then hold at 20.
Mar 20, 2026 at 11:50 PM
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So when it stalls to stall can you put the car in neutral to help the engine keep running? in other words does it feel like a standard transmission coming to s top when you don't push the clutch pedal in?
Mar 21, 2026 at 9:29 AM
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BILL MARSHALL
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It hasn't actually stalled again since changing the fuel filter. I just drove it 10 miles and only once did it start to sputter when coming to a stop, but it didn't stall. It kind of hunts between 300 and 600 rpm and feels like its going to stall. When it did stall previously, it wouldn't do the hunting and it wasn't a jerking feeling like you would get from not pushing the clutch in with a manual as you stopped. It kind of just coasts to a stop when coming to a stop. When it would stall from putting it in drive, it would just die like you turned the key off.
Mar 21, 2026 at 10:31 AM
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BILL MARSHALL
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Yes, I can put it in neutral to prevent it from stalling
Mar 21, 2026 at 10:33 AM
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So, I would double check the codes, service the throttle body and check for vacuum leaks, this guide can help us do the services.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

Please go over this guide and get back to me. Ken


Mar 22, 2026 at 8:51 AM
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BILL MARSHALL
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Throttle body and mass air flow sensor have been cleaned. I did not find any vacuum leaks either visually, with the vacuum tester or with brake cleaner. I cleared the codes last week, as stated before, it showed bank 1 rich and bank 2 rich, but no check engine light. I just tested it again and got P0172, P0175, Bank 1 Rich and Bank 2 rich, as well as a TCCM code U1016, lost communication with PCM, still no check engine light. I've narrowed the shifting problem down to the 2 - 3 up shift. When this shift occurs, depending on how far you have the accelerator pressed, the engine will rev freely but the truck won't accelerate anymore and then it eventually catches. Under light to moderate throttle this is barely noticeable, under moderate to heavy throttle, it will rev to almost red line before it catches. The engine stalled on me once today when going from reverse to drive.
Mar 24, 2026 at 8:31 PM
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BILL MARSHALL
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I thought maybe flex fuel sensor fault, since I've had an issue with that before, but I just checked it and it shows alcohol content at 8% and fuel composition sensor frequency between 50 and 60 hz, which I'm pretty sure is normal. I don't run flex fuel.
Mar 24, 2026 at 8:52 PM
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BILL MARSHALL
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Going through the available live data, I see one data stream that is titled "Deceleration Fuel Cut Off". Could that be the stalling issue?
Mar 24, 2026 at 9:06 PM
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The Deceleration Fuel Cut Off PID is probably not the cause of the stalling. The new filter helping is a big clue. Sometimes a clogged filter masks a weak pump, and once flow demand changes, the pump still can’t keep up under heat-load. The stumble at stops after a longer drive fits a pump that gets weak when hot.

P0172 and P0175 - both banks running rich.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/why-an-automotive-engine-will-run-rich

Here is a guide that goes over why it can have a rich mixture on both banks, also plugged cats can cause this as well. I would try unplugging the MAF sensor as well, cleaning it does not help most of the time. Let me know.
Mar 25, 2026 at 11:34 AM
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BILL MARSHALL
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Any thoughts on the transmission 2 - 3 upshift with the engine free reviving?
Mar 25, 2026 at 12:39 PM
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BILL MARSHALL
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As for the guide you posted, I will have to check the plugs to see if there's a leaking injector. The truck doesn't use a fuel pressure sensor. I checked the O2 sensors last night, the up streams were fluctuating high low between 0 and 1 volt and the down streams hovered around 500 mV. I've been under the truck a few times and haven't noticed an exhaust leak. The ECT sensor reads normal. I'm not sure how to test a map sensor. The evap purgr solenoid was replaced over the summer. I don't hear any8 rattling or knocking from the timing cover area, I can't imagine the timing chain jumped a tooth and the fuel pressure regulator was just replaced.
Mar 25, 2026 at 2:05 PM
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How is the engine power output? Also, get unplug the MAF sensor while it is running to see if the engine smooths out. Can you please shoot a quick video with your phone so I can hear the engine run? that way I can tell for sure what's going on. You can upload it here with your response.
Mar 26, 2026 at 9:16 AM
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BILL MARSHALL
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The plot thickens...

A few weeks ago my mother borrowed the truck for a couple of days. I checked all the fluids before she took it and they were fine. Apparently, my father decided to also check the fluids while she was using it and, according to her, he said the trans fluid was low and that he added some Lucas to it (the man puts Lucas additives in everything, he swears by it). Before I was aware of this, I decided to change the plugs and do a drain and fill on the trans (the fluid is light brown, but still has a tint of red). I checked the trans fluid again after doing the plugs (I haven't done the drain and fill yet) and it's 1 - 2 qts over filled, about an inch above the top mark. He says he remembers checking it, but he can't remember if he added anything to it or not.

The engine power output is fine. If you step on it, it goes. It's just the slipping / slow to shift 2 - 3 upshift and the occasional stumble when coming to a stop (it used to stall every time and also when going from reverse to drive). It doesn't have a problem idling so I didn't unplug the MAF. The video is just after changing the plugs. Shows plug images, idling and a few quick revs, as well as me checking the input and output temps of both cats. There was 1 old plug on each bank that was barely hand tightened. These are the ones with the black around the base of the porcelain. I'll do the drain and fill tonight, it got too hot to continue. I'm in AZ and it's currently 102°.
Mar 27, 2026 at 2:44 PM
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Wow, thanks for the great video, it does look like one of the cats is not working correctly and could be broken apart inside which will make the engine stall and have low power rough idle sometimes. You may want to remove the unit for inspection, you are looking for broken up catalyst material. We have done many in the shop, here is a video to help.

https://youtu.be/CORe9JyrexI?si=tA-Lh9w7RnZwczrO

Also, if the transmission fluid is over filled it will cause the unit to slip as the fluid can cause aeration so I would drain that out to obtain the correct level, the spark plug looks worn out so good job replacing those. Please go over this guide and get back to us.
Mar 28, 2026 at 8:04 AM
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BILL MARSHALL
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Is that because there was a 40° - 50° difference front to back on the second cat I checked?
Mar 28, 2026 at 9:29 AM
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Yes, the difference was good on the second one but the first one did not have that much so it can be causing he issue, you may want to rap the exhaust with a rubber mallet to see if you can hear the loose catalyst material inside.
Mar 29, 2026 at 9:59 AM
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BILL MARSHALL
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I tried that, but I couldn't hear anything loose inside. It hasn't stalled, or even stumbled, since changing the plugs. I did a drain and fill on the trans and corrected the level, but it didn't make a difference. I'm not sure what's left to check before saying it might just need a rebuild, it does have 170k miles on it and I don't know if it's the original unit or not.
Apr 6, 2026 at 3:32 AM
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It would be good if I can see the problem, can you please upload a short video of the issue?
Apr 6, 2026 at 8:39 AM
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BILL MARSHALL
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The first clip is showing that under about half throttle, it acts normal. The rest of the clips are what happens when you give it more than half throttle. The RPMs climb to redline, but the truck barely accelerates.
Apr 8, 2026 at 4:10 PM
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Yep, I would double check the transmission fluid level and if it is okay the transmission needs a rebuild. The reason it stalls is because the torque converter is not disengaging which happens when the transmission is full of metal. Thanks for the video it helped.
Apr 9, 2026 at 6:31 AM
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BILL MARSHALL
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Can you tell me what the book time is to replace a 4L60E?
Apr 10, 2026 at 1:01 AM
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Around about 7.8 to 9.6 hours for remove-and-replace depending on options.
Apr 10, 2026 at 8:55 AM