Heater does not work in the winter

Tiny
JDADAMS1
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 TOYOTA CAMRY
  • 2.2L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 6,000 MILES
The engine I had to be rebuilt due to a faulty part, oil pump, the engine had 176,000 miles on it, oil was changed on average at less than 2,000 miles. The radiator was replaced 10 years ago, since it "failed" during a timing belt replacement, I assume non - OEM since it was done at Pep Boys no change in engine temperature performance or heater performance ever noted prior to rebuild of engine. Prior to rebuild, as suggested all hoses were replaced and a new radiator (non - OEM) was installed. During warmer months the engine runs hotter, still within OEM specifications so to speak, just a noticeable increase, during the winter, at cold outside temperatures, basically the heater is useless. The hotter/warmer temperature I "wrote off" or explained away as the result of the engine being painted, which raises thermal conductivity, and emissivity, the engine block and head was not painted by Toyota. What would be the best reason(s), wider swings in engine temperature, and the engine not heating up during cold temperature - outside temperature day 40 degree F or below? The engine now has over 6,000 miles on it, so it is well broken in.

It does not seem reasonable to assume a circulation issue, if the engine runs "slightly" hotter after the rebuild during the warmer months (again it does not overheat), then the engine should run slightly hotter during the winter months, and the heater should be even more "effective/efficient", but basically the heater during cold weather does not function.

I am at a loss for an valid reason, there is no engine warning light. So there is no diagnostic code to be obtained.
Saturday, December 19th, 2020 AT 1:45 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
AL514
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,675 POSTS
Hello, have you checked the heater core hoses going into the firewall from the engine compartment? When the cars warmed up, feel the hoses. If ones colder and the other is hot, your heater core is clogged up. Does this car have a lever type heater control or a dial?

Check out this guide

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-heater-not-working

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 7:00 PM
Tiny
JDADAMS1
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
The Heater/AC level setting is dial. The radiator fluid is still clear; but, I will check again, this will take a few days possibly. During moderate/cooler weather day 50 F, the heater system is adequate. The oil pump failure (undersized oil pump seemed to be for a Celica which has a smaller engine (liter), narrower disk/gearing which caused the bearing to overheat, and a head gasket leak between oil and water, result - water in the oil - reason for the rebuild.) I will have to get back to you on the temperature of the heater hoses going into/under dashboard. The residual oil from the engine oil pump failure, possible could of gotten into the heater core; but, this is doubtful, unless the Toyota OEM coolant dissolves oil. The remaining admittedly remote possibility is the harmonic balancer was also replaced since it was 24+ year old OEM and contained plastic/rubber as a major component. If the harmonic balancer is slightly out a specification causing a slight change in timing, i.E, the woodruff key and the timing mark(s) were not within OEM specifications or exact for the harmonic balancer.

Again, I will get back to you on the heater hoses going into the firewall it might be a several days.
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 7:01 PM
Tiny
AL514
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,675 POSTS
You can just feel the hoses in the engine compartment, going into the firewall. You probably won't be able to get to the hoses under the dash. The heater core is in the HVAC unit. If it's clogged you can flush it by removing the hoses in the engine compartment and flushing the heater core. You can flush the heater core if you find it's clogged up. If the harmonic balancer keyway was off you would have codes for valve timing.
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 7:01 PM
Tiny
JDADAMS1
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Ran a short errand today, extremely busy on other things, outside pavement was 66 F,
temperature gauge only reach 1/2 the way to typically position. Heater hose temperature (IR thermometer) 110 F, 135 F, the heater dial and fan was set at maximum. Is there a flow valve, could of the hoses have been reversed in position, I strongly suspect the mechanic who removed the engine left the company and a different mechanic had to put the engine back in. I suspect this makes a big difference, I cannot pull an engine living in an apartment complex, management would get rather upset I suspect. Will check out video on YouTube for flushing a heater core. Prior to any repair, or flushing, I will get the engine up to typical temperature, and retake the measurement.
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 7:01 PM
Tiny
AL514
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,675 POSTS
135 degrees is way too low, and yes there is a valve on the heater core lines, but if it's not reaching operating temperature then you have another issue. That's the problem when one tech starts the job and another puts it back together. Now you're looking at a potentially bad thermostat or poor coolant circulation. I don't see why you would have to pull the engine, you just need to figure out what's going on.
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 7:01 PM

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