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Engine power loss and cut off when put in gear

Tiny
PEARLHICKORY
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 FORD EXPLORER
  • 4.0L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 180,000 MILES
99, 4.0 SOHC, engine idles ok, when placed in gear sputters then cuts off, starts up again fine, then repeats over again, REPLACED, intake manifold seals, maf, iac, tops, egr, still cutting off, any ideas, cats maybe?
Wednesday, October 29th, 2014 AT 7:49 AM

39 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,913 POSTS
Did you get any trouble codes? Also, the converters could be an issue. Try removing the O2 sensors and see if it makes any difference. Also, you should check intake manifold vacuum pressure. You may have a leak somewhere.
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Wednesday, October 29th, 2014 AT 8:43 AM
Tiny
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Do have 02 trbl codes, I've checked for leaks, found couple, repaired issue, going to do smoke test next, already got car up in air to take cats off. See if it runs, also EVERY. Code from trans is present.
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Wednesday, October 29th, 2014 AT 9:56 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Trans codes? All of them? Check out this guide

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output
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Wednesday, October 29th, 2014 AT 6:45 PM
Tiny
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Yes it has all sensor codes lit up on scanner, but I think I hope I found my problem, think cats are blocked, pulled 1 02 sensor car stayed running in drive and reverse.
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Wednesday, October 29th, 2014 AT 7:04 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,913 POSTS
That sounds like it could be the issue.
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Thursday, October 30th, 2014 AT 5:33 AM
Tiny
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Well if I could burn it I would, LETS see, after all ive done to it,

I took off the cats, and still cutting, off when put in drive, heres all codes, present, ====
P 1747, EPC SOLENOID ===
PO 743 TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH ===
PO 750 SHIFT SOLENOID A
PO 755 """""""""""""""""""""" B
PO 760 """""""""""""""""""""" C
PO 765 """""""""""""""""""""" D
P 1451 EVAP
P1409 EGR

iVE ALREADY REPLACED EGR, MAF, IAC, TPS, CHECKED CATS FOR BLOCKAGE ! ANY OTHER IDEAS, MAYBE TRANS MODULE MAKING ENGINE CUT OFF, HELPPP, THANKS.
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Thursday, October 30th, 2014 AT 1:24 PM
Tiny
PEARLHICKORY
  • MEMBER
  • 69 POSTS
Hey guys good morning any other ideas on my car cutting off. Need help thanks.
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Friday, October 31st, 2014 AT 6:28 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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I think the TCC is an issue. If the transmission isn't fully disengaged when you put it in gear, it would be like letting the clutch out with the brake on with a manual transmission.
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Friday, October 31st, 2014 AT 8:38 AM
Tiny
ALEXANDER KäMäRä
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1999 FORD EXPLORER
  • 4.0L
  • V6
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 170,000 MILES
I was driving on highway when all of a sudden felt loss of power, car started to stutter, check engine came on. At home I have checked intake manifold for leaks none found, checked EGR works fine (i have closed it just to be sure), PCV is fine, all hoses are okay. Tried to find leaks with carburetor cleaner none found. I suspect o-rings or a faulty o2 sensor. Is there some way to test o2 sensor? Or check if it is the o-rings without taking apart the manifold?
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Wednesday, November 1st, 2017 AT 8:41 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
May be a faulty injector or a low fuel pressure problem, a blocked fuel filter can do this, as for the O2 sensor, a live data read will show the sensor electrical activity, The greater the difference, the higher the voltage reading. An oxygen sensor will typically generate up to about 0.9 volts when the fuel mixture is rich and there is little unburned oxygen in the exhaust. When the mixture is lean, the sensor's output voltage will drop down to about 0.1 volts. If the readings are above 1 V or zero the sensor is not working.
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Wednesday, November 1st, 2017 AT 8:41 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BARSTOW85
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1999 FORD EXPLORER
  • V8
  • AWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 106,000 MILES
Transmission problem
1999 Ford Explorer V8 All Wheel Drive Automatic 106000 miles

I've noticed it most when I am going uphill with low gas and the vehicle seems to stall a second, like the transmission is slipping maybe. I also had a similiar problem when my fuel filter was going bad. If it's not the transmission, I think I may have something in my gas tank that is choked through the filter when it reaches the bottom of the tank. But it does have a lot of miles on it so maybe it's time to tune up the transmission. I'm open to suggestions though.
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Wednesday, November 1st, 2017 AT 8:41 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
If you run it with less than 1/4th of a tank, you might want to have the fuel pressure tested.
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Wednesday, November 1st, 2017 AT 8:41 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BADSTAR
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
  • 1999 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 132,000 MILES
Engine Performance problem
1999 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic 132000 miles

I had my explorer checked out but they couldn't find any thing wrong. The test that they done all good. But still idles ruff and runs ruff, has no power. It did have a code 1151 but now it is not showing up. They said that it might be the throttle body but said he was not sure that was it said just a guessing. Any idles on what it might be?
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Wednesday, November 1st, 2017 AT 8:41 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Did you check for vacuum leaks? Has the catalytic converter been checked?
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Wednesday, November 1st, 2017 AT 8:41 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BADSTAR
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Yes the vacuum checked, but how to check the cadillac converter? Thanks.
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Wednesday, November 1st, 2017 AT 8:41 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,913 POSTS
The converter can be checked a couple ways. First, when the engine is hot and still running, often times, a converter will get red hot and glow. Other than that, you can hear restriction. Finally, they make a gauge that screws into the O2 sensor ports to measure back pressure.
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Wednesday, November 1st, 2017 AT 8:41 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RMOORE09
  • MEMBER
  • 132 POSTS
  • 1999 FORD EXPLORER
  • 205,000 MILES
Hello, My intake manifold is leaking. The problem has gotten worse such that my check engine light is on saying that Bank 2 and Bank 1 too lean. The explorer runs great and still gets around 20 mpg. I can tell it has lost some power and it seems to run better on 91 octane than 87. It does start up rough if you let it sit for like a few minutes. Sometimes I hear a knocking like sound coming from the left side of the block. It sometimes is really loud or you wont hear it at all. As I said it drives fine. How worse do you think this could get? Do you recommend repair right now?
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Wednesday, November 1st, 2017 AT 8:41 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
It will not stay the same. It will get worse and you could do more damage.
Have you got a bid to have it fixed?

The knock is not good either. You need to let a shop listen to it and tell you there opinion.

The longer you wait, the worse it will get.

Roy
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Wednesday, November 1st, 2017 AT 8:41 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DAVID8172
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1999 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 140,000 MILES
Engine Performance problem
1999 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic 140000 miles

I have a 1999 explorer. In park it runs just fine when I put it in drive it has no power after I pass 1000 on the tac. I put it back in nutral or park and its fine.
Took it to ford and they said my cats were plugged and wanted $2,500 to change. I went and had them cut out and the problem still exists. Its getting codes for the trans but I just don't know where to look. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. My email is hooligan632@yahoo. Com

David
The trans does not seem to have any mechanical problems at all. When I put the truck in drive I can drive it but I have to keep the rpms under 1,100 or if I go above that it acts just like its running out of gas. Once going I can cruise at 65 mph with no problems until I press the gas petal down and again it acts like its run out of gas as soon as I release the petal everything is fine. Its some type of senser that only acts up when in gear and the excellerator is pushed beyond 1,100 rpms
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Wednesday, November 1st, 2017 AT 8:41 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Is the code for the torque converter clutch solinoid?
A tranny shop is where to go not Ford!
TORQUE CONVERTOR ENGAGEMENT TEST Perform QUICK TEST and record DTCs. Repair all DTCs before performing the following test: 1. Connect tachometer. Warm engine to normal operating temperature. Ensure transmission fluid level is correct. Maintain about 50 MPH. Release throttle for about 2 seconds, then reapply to previous setting. Engine RPM should increase when throttle is released and decrease in about 5 seconds after throttle is reapplied. Go to next step. 2. Maintain about 50 MPH. Apply light pressure to brake pedal so that brake lights operate. Engine RPM should increase as brake pedal is tapped, and then decrease about 5 seconds after pedal is released. If torque converter clutch operation is not as specified, see TCC operation concerns listed in
TCC ENGAGEMENT TEST Connect tachometer. Warm engine to normal operating temperature. Ensure transmission fluid level is correct. Drive vehicle and maintain about 50 MPH. Release throttle for about 2 seconds, then reapply to previous setting. Engine RPM should increase when throttle is released and decrease in about 5 seconds after throttle is reapplied. If torque converter clutch operation is not as specified
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Wednesday, November 1st, 2017 AT 8:41 PM (Merged)

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