After replacing engine mounts driver's side making popping sound

Tiny
JGANAWAY
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 FORD F-150
  • 4.9L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 268,299 MILES
I have replaced the engine mounts and made sure they are in the correct position, torqued the bolts with a breaker bar with and without lock washers and put new nuts on. The nuts are the correct thread, I took the old one to match it up. Made sure the transmission cross member was tight. Put lock washers on and made sure the transmission mount bolts are tight as well. After a few days of driving, the driver side motor mount starts making a popping sound and then I have to tap the accelerator to knock the rpm back down. Am I missing something? I can't figure this out.

I don't know if this is relevant to my problem or not. When I put the motor mounts in, I bolted the side with the pin first. Then I lowered the engine, checking the alignment as it came down and I realized the the engine was too the left of the motor mount bolts. I tried to align them back up but couldn't. In order to lower the engine on to the mounts, I had to barely put the nuts on the pin side of the mounts and then angle the mounts as I lowered the engine.
Wednesday, August 28th, 2019 AT 6:01 AM

7 Replies

Tiny
KASEKENNY
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Hi,

Popping engine mounts are due to them not being aligned properly or torqued properly. I think you are already suspecting this which is why you mentioned the second part of your question.

I am not sure if what you stated is the issue but did you replace just the insulator and nuts with washers or did you replace the mounts as well?
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Wednesday, August 28th, 2019 AT 4:11 PM
Tiny
JGANAWAY
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Yes, I replaced the mounts and the nuts. I ordered solid mounts from a local parts store, all 1 piece. All I have is a breaker bar and I've cracked two standard 18 metric deep sockets trying to get them tight. I've thought about borrowing and air compressor and a air ratchet and maybe and impact driver but I've been told that an air ratchet won't be of any help and an impact driver wouldn't produce the torque that I need. If all that is true, then how do I go about getting them torqued properly?
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Wednesday, August 28th, 2019 AT 4:45 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
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Okay. If they were the complete assembly, did you notice if they were labeled with an L and R? Clearly that is for left and right but that is while sitting in the driver seat. So the Left is driver side. Many people get this backwards.

I am not sure if these mounts will even go on the wrong side but it is very common for mount issues are they are on the wrong side.

As for torquing them, your sockets are cracking because you are probably using the chrome thin walled sockets. You need to use an impact socket. They are normally black but the walls on the socket are thicker and will hold up to the higher torque needs.
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Wednesday, August 28th, 2019 AT 6:13 PM
Tiny
JGANAWAY
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Okay, I'll check this weekend. That may explain when the holes on the mounting brackets on the engine wouldn't line up with the motor mounts, once bolted to the frame. So, keep using a breaker bar with and impact socket?
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Wednesday, August 28th, 2019 AT 6:19 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
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That’s what I was thinking.

Yes. A breaker bar works however on one piece mounts which bolts are you trying to torque like this? The frame or the block?
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Wednesday, August 28th, 2019 AT 6:23 PM
Tiny
JGANAWAY
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Both. The driver side, the pin is on the bottom and on the passenger side, the pin is on the top. These are the mounts I bought. I'll check this weekend to see if L or R is stamped.
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Wednesday, August 28th, 2019 AT 6:28 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
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Okay. That makes sense. Let me know what you find and we can go from there.
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Wednesday, August 28th, 2019 AT 6:30 PM

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