pin out diagram of the 42-pin connector needed, one that shows what the wires are for?

This is what I received from Ford.

Hi,

That is what I have for a pinout as well. However, I went to the powertrain management schematics and basically copied each page showing the PCM. You will need to identify the pin number on the pic.

I'm not sure if this is what you needed because you indicated a 42 pin. If it is a specific module you are referring to, let me know

Let me know if this helps.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

This is the 42 pin connector I'm referring to. It's where the engine harness plugs into. It's located pass rear of engine compartment. That's the actual plug off engine harness I cut off.

Ford dealership gave me wire color but not what they're used for. I figured out TPS I have to hook up. I have those wires separated already. I have to figure tachometer adapter now.

Hi,

Okay, I'm glad to hear you got it figured out. I was under the impression you needed the pinout for the PCM.

Regardless, If I can help, let me know.

Take care,

Joe

I'm just making sure I'm correct in my thinking. From what I've read the crank sensor sends the signal to coil packs to fire the plugs at the right time. It's also what sends signal for tach. It also generates its own signal so no actual voltage is needed.
So, in my thinking with what you sent me pin 21 would be the signal wire for tach and pin 22 is a ground more or less. I would just need to hook a switched power wire to my adapter.

Just to let you know what I am building. There's an article in Motortrend called 400 HP 302 on pump gas. Check it out sometime. Mine is an '85 GT block bored 30 over and decked 15 thousandth. I have GT40P heads shaved 8 thousandth and upgraded springs. The intake is a Typhoon with a 1" spacer plate and a Carter/AFB 605s carb. In the article he got 401 hp with stock heads. My GT40P'S I'm guessing 425-450 hp.

Hi,

Wow, that's a lot of HP from a 302. LOL Let me know how things turn out for you. I will check out the posting in Motor Trend. It sounds interesting.

Take care,

Joe

Did you see my question above that? I believe I'm correct in my thinking but not 100% sure.

Hi,

I didn't see that one. As far as the crankshaft position sensor, yes it provides an engine RPM signal that is used for two things, the crankshaft in 10-degree increments, and engine RPMs.

This information is sent to the powertrain control module to determine ignition timing and engine speed. From there the information is sent to the tachometer.

Take care,

Joe

I have the motor back in the car after replacing the crankshaft. Original crank was bad.
I came across this spacer plate somewhere. I've collected parts all over the place. Would you have any idea what this would be for? I've tried to Google different spacers. One I found somewhat similar said it was for water/methanol injection. I'm thinking about NOS down the road and I'm wondering if this would be usable. There are two holes on the inside, one in each Venturis.

Hi,

That is certainly a spacer under the carburetor. As far as the openings are concerned, I suspect it could be used for NOS or a vacuum supply. Keep in mind, you just replaced the crankshaft. If you start using NOS, you may damage the new crank or one of the connecting rods. That applies a lot more pressure to everything.

Your work looks great. Let me know when you get it started. I'm anxious to hear it. LOL

Take care,

Joe

You'll hear the whine of timing gears. Going to be a little bit before I fire it again. I want all electronics hooked up and operating. Running the 4R70w transmission needs some signals to operate. Old school engines never needed many electronics. Why I went single wire HEI distributor.

With original crank. I didn't hurt anything with it. Didn't have much run time. Wouldn't hold oil pressure so it got tore down and new crank and bearings installed which I got from Crankshaft Supply Co.

Hi,
Wow, that sounds good. Is the whine the timing gears? That is a little louder than I would expect.

Let me know.

Joe

Yes, that is the gears. That is the noisy ones. I bought them and the scoop off Facebook Marketplace. He only had 10 mins I was told. They are in very good shape and fit snug like they should. The guy didn't like the noise. I don't mind it.
I never got into the throttle much. I kept an eye on oil pressure and seen it wasn't holding so out it came.

They are loud. It sounds like you have a blower on it. LOL

Regardless, take care, and let me know if I can help in any way.

Joe

https://www.jegs.com/i/Trans-Dapt/969/2431/10002/-1

I found my spacer plate.

Hi,

That works. LOL I thought you had one already that you planned to use.

Joe

I do. I believe that is similar to mine. Mine is just missing the little groves. That could be resolved.

Well, you are better off with what you did. At least you will know if there is an issue. Otherwise, if you are like me, you would question the modifications you made if anything happened. LOL

Regardless, take care of yourself.

Joe

Not sure if you read that article yet. I told you what I built. What cubic inch would you say I have? I never figured that out. I fired it after the new crank rebuild today. It's a scary ride. I need a better rear yet. Still 7.5 v6 rear in it. I nailed it idling in low gear. I had to let off. That's just in development where I live. It's not street legal yet. I had it sideways twice also.

Yes, you see the wire screen under the spacer plate. Helps break up the fuel to a vapor. Old school trick.

It's a ride for days. Looking for a better rear. V6 rear still in it. 7.5 ring and pinion won't hold up long.

Hi,

It looks like it would be a heck of a ride. LOL And I agree, you are going to destroy that differential. It may take a while, but it will happen.

Take care of yourself, and no driving over 45 MPH. LOL

Joe

Good luck with 45 MPH since most roads around Hiawassee GA is 55 MPH. You want to build a Ford motor look at that article but use Gt40P heads. You don't need a big cam to be dangerous. Nice Typhoon intake and a little 600 cfm Carter/AFB carb. I'll put you back in the seat and laugh.

All low end hp and torque mixed with straight timing gears that don't fluctuate. I have mid-range hp and torque to back it up. Not sure if low end or midrange is worse.
And sucking in cold air.

Upgrade the springs in the heads. Stock springs suck. I'm running dual springs and shaved 8 thousandth. 58 cc heads beefed up. Block bored 30 over and decked 15 thousandth on a 1985 stock GT block. Ford is King!

I forgot to say my pistons are a 30 over chevy 350, yes turned backwards. They're not a Ford piston. I have no clue of compression ratio between pistons and heads. 10+:1 ratio or higher? Who knows?
Oil pressure stays good and electric fan don't run much.

And the screen helps to break up the fuel. I'm 61 years old and follow old school techniques.

I have the best documentation possible, I got pics to prove what I have.

I didn't go cheap on break in. Only oil going in this motor is Amsoil. Staying straight 30 probably. See how their product really is.

Hi,

Amsoil is an excellent product. I hope things are still going well.

Take care,

Joe

I'm looking for a dyno in my area. This thing is crazy. Stump it idling in low gear and it smokes the tires.
I'm also looking for someone to make me a sunshade decal for my windshield. Frankenstein.
Once it's street legal, probably spring, I'm going to see if I have enough to take a 2022 5.0l Stang. They run the Coyote motor. I think I can take it once I get my car to hook up. My 7.5 stock v6 rear won't get it done.

It's a handful to hang onto if you get into it.

Legal for road now. It's so fun to drive, lol. Sorry I forgot I sent the video already. I'm getting the little things fixed slowly.

Hi,

That's great news. I'm glad to hear it. It looks somewhat intimidating. LOL I bet it's fast as heck.

Take care of yourself and I hope you and your family have a great Christmas.

Joe