Does not stay running stalls while driving in town

Thank you for your answer, however after checking all of the above except replacing the crankshaft position sensor (since the car starts and runs perfectly for the 3-5 seconds, I couldn't believe it was that sensor since it was getting fire). After the car starts and runs a few times, I get a 340 code thrown. That is the camshaft position sensor and I have replaced it with a new one. I also replaced the connector since the old one came apart. However when replacing the sensor connector with the new one I could not remember exactly which wires went where. The original plug had three wires. Two black and one pink, but the replacement had three black.I tried to put them back the way I thought the had been, but I still get the 340 code, no matter how I switch them around. Could you tell me how to test them and tell which wire goes where on the sensor plug. At this time I have the pink one in the middle of the plug, but have no idea whether it's correct or not or whether the black ones are correct either. I've tried to check the wires to determine which of the black one is the ground, but haven't had any luck. One more question. When splicing the new connector wires to the original wires, can you just twist the wires together until you know which is correct and then solder seal them. Will they still make a good enough connection to determine if they are correctly connected to keep from taking them loose every time it throws the code? I know this is a long post, but I am down to my last vehicle to drive and it is a 35 year old S-10 with about 400,000 miles on it and could die at any time. Any help would be deeply appreciated. Thanks, Jay

OK, so when I crank my car sometimes it will jump and not run smoothly while idling. I changed my spark plugs already. When I take my car out of park and put it on reverse or drive it will die. Not all the time but sometimes. And sometimes when I come to a stop sign and I accelerate it will act like it doesn't have much power. Any help would be appreciated.

Is there anyway you could tell me where those 2 things would be located

This first happened when driving at 45 mph.I was pressing gas pedal but car was suddenly not responsive (however, still running - it did not cut off), pressed harder and engine responded, but then it bottomed out again and when that happens it sounds like it is in the wrong gear. Each time I press the pedal harder, it responds and repeats the same behavior above. Check engine light did not come on. I pulled over to a stop, then started driving again and it still did the same thing. My brother thought it might be the throttle position sensor, which he replaced, but that did not work. He then disconnected & reconnected the battery and it ran/drove perfectly fine as if nothing ever happened until the next day. The exact same thing happened as the previous day. The cel still did not come on. He disconnected/reconnected the battery again and it drove fine to the repair shop. They say they cannot troubleshoot until the can get the car to do this again.

So just disconnect the hose running from the throttle body to the air filter cabin and clean it with carb/choke cleaner?

I have the same problem. But shop found no codes. How do I check pcm or trans control module?

The car has been running well, but this morning when I started the car, it started fine and idled normally for maybe 2 seconds before the check engine light came on and the engine stopped. It seems as though the engine computer runs some diagnostics and after finding a problem cuts fuel. Any thoughts?

Edit: Also, I can start the car with some throttle input (say 3000 rpm) and the car will shut down regardless. It doesn't seem to be a battery or idle issue.

The car will stall and most of the time compression start right back up. Sometime it won't compression start and I have to pull over let it set a few minuets and it will start and away I go. After 10 miles or so it will run fine and I will not have any more problems until the car cools down completely. I get no check engine light when this happens.

I can not find a fuel pressure test port on my Kia Optima, from what I found online it may not have one.