Hello, do you still have the old coil that caused the code in the first place? I would check the resistance across the 2 coil pins and compare it with the other coil you got, If it had shorted out primary circuit windings (causing low resistance), this can cause too much current to flow through the coil into the PCM driver that controls that coil and burn the driver out. Try swapping the coil to a different cylinder. It sounds like that coil got hot, hence the part of the rubber boot sticking to the spark plug. Unfortunately, with 2 wire coils, when they short out internally in the primary circuit, they can burn out the transistor inside the PCM that controls the ground side of the coil. It's not a good idea to install used coils, especially if you don't know if its aftermarket or not.
You can test for coil control with a test light. Here's a video on doing that, but if you swap the "new" coil to a different cylinder and get the same code, then you know the problem is isolated to that cylinder, either wiring or PCM driver inside the computer. If the code does not set to the same cylinder, then you have a couple of bad coils, when you cut part of the rubber boot off the coil was most likely arcing to the cylinder head and not through the spark plug and it probably overheated the coil. Here's a couple guides below to help as well. You can still check for coil control with a test light on a coil over plug design, you're still looking for the switching off and on of the ground side of the coil in either case.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mDKj19Hnhd0&t=18s
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/a-deep-dive-into-recurring-automobile-ignition-coil-failures-identification-and-repair
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Sunday, November 12th, 2023 AT 12:16 PM
