Engine abruptly cuts off while coasting to a stop?

Are you cranking it back up with the key or does it start back itself once your going again?

Starting it back up with a key

Any ideas? Thanks

It has a new battery, alternator is tested and fully functioning.

This problem is hard to diagnose because we don't have a trouble code which makes this a difficult repair. But there are popular items that can cause this issue, the first is to service the throttle body. Here is a guide that can help you with that:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

VW rarely burns up the pump itself, instead, the fuel pump control module (J538) overheats or intermittently drops power. The module sits near fuel pump under the metal cover

Look for:

1. Corrosion
2. Water intrusion
3. Melted plastic
4. Heat discoloration

Here is the location of the fuel pump module and the throttle body so you can service the unit and check out the other. I will email them to you as well. I would also check the engine for vacuum leaks as well, this video will help you.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LRKWV4Are5c&t

Check out the images (below). Let us know how it goes

Sounds good I will check on that. I appreciate it very much. Thanks

Also if I end up replacing the fuel pump control module do I need to program it? Thanks

Nope the FPM is plug and play. Let me know what happens.

Ok so now it's doing it more frequently and it's triggered a code. However I cannot find the fuel pump relay anywhere on the fuse/relay diagrams so I'm guessing it's one of those that's probably hidden under the dash and not mentioned in the diagram or is it part of the fuel pump module? I have included a screenshot of the code. Thanks

I'm pretty sure it's one of these? These are the ones directly underneath the steering column. I've included a picture?

This does not have a traditional fuel pump relay, instead it has an electrical system control module which sounds like it is bad. I would disconnect the battery and remove the electrical connectors and use a flashlight check for corrosion. Here is the info to help confirm the location and problem. Check out the images (below). Let us know what you find.

Ok so I've check the connectors and they'll seem fine there's no corrosion and I have replaced the module itself with the identical one with same part number. The car starts and runs fine except my fob does not work and I get this code which I've included in a picture? I have also replaced all those relays underneath next to the module. Does this module need to be programmed now? Also the donor car that the module came off is 2012 Passat SE and it did have the heated seats, mine does not however as I said the part number is exactly the same and I've included a picture of the modules as well the one with a red question mark is my original one? Thanks

Yes, this module needs to be programmed for the electrical system control module (BCM) to work correctly. To confirm the engine starts and the stalling has gone away? Any repair shop should be able to program it for you, or you can get a preprogrammed unit or send the new and old unit in to have it programmed as well.

I haven't driven it that long since the new module. I will drive it for at least 200 miles before I program the new module to confirm that the program has been taken are of. I will keep you posted. Thanks

Sounds good! Glad we can get it closer to being fixed.

Ok so after few days the car started doing the same thing, so I replaced the throttle body with another used unit from a junkyard and i reinstalled the original BCM since that did not fix the problem and the car is still doing it. I also checked for the fuel pump module per picture that you provided me with before which this car does not have as it is pointed in the picture. There is nothing on top if the fuel pump assembly as you can see in the pictures I attached. I haven't checked for codes again with my scanner after I did all this which I will do so tomorrow and update this posting. Thanks

Yep, we need the codes to see what is going on, intermittent stalling is the hardest repairs in automotive. I have seen the ignition switch, fuel pump or relay, Motronic engine power relay, crankshaft angle sensor and the MAP sensor cause this as well. But we will get it fixed, just hang in there.

I think I finally pinpointed the problem. It's been over a month since I replaced the crankshaft sensor and it's been working fine and not shutting off. So at this point I think safe you say that it was the crankshaft sensor. It did finally pop up as a code on the scanner after it started shutting off more frequently, surprised that it didn't want to trigger the code sooner.

NICE!! yep, the crankshaft sensor is difficult to troubleshoot, glad you could get it fixed, thanks for letting us know. Ken